Not much new to add. A little of this a little of that.

I ordered a tuning cable and adjusted my cold start enrichment portion of the tune. It was simply far to rich. Below 10:1 AFR until it starting warming up. Nice to be able to tune it myself.

Swapped out the coilover springs from 600ppi to 750ppi. Ordered from PAC Racing. Which meant that the Addco sway bar would no longer fit. Solely due to the fact that these coilovers do not have the stand-off like the oem ones do. Makes me wonder if the XR front coilover could be made to fit??????? Hmmmmmm

Machinist, as of last night, has my engine in the machine to be decked. Goldylocks. As well as everything necessary to ship the stroker out. Should be sending that one out around the end of next week to WPC.

A little "suburban engineering" per say.

The Addco sway bar was already extremely close to the Eibach 600ppi springs. So much so, that it would rub the spring during full droop. When I installed the stronger PAC Racing 750ppi springs, there was no possible way to make the sway bar bolt up as-is. So I drove around for a few weeks without it installed. Debating how to go about overcoming the issue.

This is what I finally decided on. Enjoy our "Roadkill"-esque modery. :laugh:






Carefully stretched each side until each side was 1 inch wider that originally. Worked like a charm! Ha

A couple other things that 1GRracer and I have been wrenching on are my roommate's 2008 Scion tC, and my curious '97 BMW.

Blew the head gasket on the tC. Warped the head. Max allowable tolerance was .002" and we had an easy .006". We were able to magically remove the head while leaving the timing cover on, and according to most, do the impossible. Remove the factory over torqued head bolts without bringing any of the threads with them. Woot!












The BMW. Well it has zero psi compression on 5 cylinders. Doesn't even budge the gauge. That one has us stumped.

Torspd said:

A couple other things that 1GRracer and I have been wrenching on are my roommate's 2008 Scion tC, and my curious '97 BMW.

Blew the head gasket on the tC. Warped the head. Max allowable tolerance was .002" and we had an easy .006". We were able to magically remove the head while leaving the timing cover on, and according to most, do the impossible. Remove the factory over torqued head bolts without bringing any of the threads with them. Woot!












The BMW. Well it has zero psi compression on 5 cylinders. Doesn't even budge the gauge. That one has us stumped.

Click to expand...

have you put some atf in the cylinders and tried a wet compression test?

It is already disassembled with the head at the machinist's. Why?

Ohhhhh.....you mean on the BMW. Gotcha. Yes. With engine oil. Poured a lot in the cylinders. Cranked it to get it all circulated and blow out the excess. Then did the compression test again.

Cylinders 1,2,4,5,6 didn't budge the gauge. Cylinder 3 jumped up from the previous 180 to 200 psi, with the oil added.

No mechanical binding noises. Engine is still timed properly. Watched valves and springs move while cranking.

Oil squirted out of cam gear tensioner.

Coolant reservoir was still holding pressure. Still need to try to pressurize the system to double check, but there was no coolant in any cylinder.

Torspd said:

Ohhhhh.....you mean on the BMW. Gotcha. Yes. With engine oil. Poured a lot in the cylinders. Cranked it to get it all circulated and blow out the excess. Then did the compression test again.

Cylinders 1,2,4,5,6 didn't budge the gauge. Cylinder 3 jumped up from the previous 180 to 200 psi, with the oil added.

No mechanical binding noises. Engine is still timed properly. Watched valves and springs move while cranking.

Oil squirted out of cam gear tensioner.

Coolant reservoir was still holding pressure. Still need to try to pressurize the system to double check, but there was no coolant in any cylinder.

Click to expand...

weird looks like you will have to break it all the way down to see exactly whats goin on.

Shh. Don't jinx me damnit! Lol

I'm not sure about your anti-sway bar streching technique, that might weaken the metal and reduce the stiffness. But I'm sure it will be better than driving without one

My Fortuner doesn't have a rear anti-sway bar, from the factory. Not sure why, but we do see many tipped over fortuners in the wreck yards. It does give it better articulation, for the benefit of off-road superiority, though.

It was the necessary trade-off. Fully realizing that which you mention. You could say "A little column "A". A little column "B"."

The handling is so much more precise now with the sway bar and 750ppi springs, than it ever was with the 600ppi springs. Point and go.

With the added weight kf the larger radiator, and turbo, I had noticed the front end understeering while on the track. Where as before with the factory radiator and no turbo it was planted. These springs compensate for that added weight.

No I just need to finish my capacitor boost pack and relocate to the rear.

Was organizing the garage last night. 5 pair of heads I have. Ha!

How many motors have ya killed in this truck ???

Three per say. Hydro locked the original.

Massive oil leak caused piston slap and lost compression in 1st built engine. (Boost pressurized the crank case in my early days of learning. Caused the leak. )

Steam erosion on the 2nd built engine, caused the deck of two cylinders to be melted away. Sent out to be sleeved.

Spare engine was not taken care of by previous owner. As in apparently refused to change the oil. Got rod knock. Repaired. Thrust washers were spit out. Found out after installing sleeved engine. Repaired. Cracked ring lands on #2 piston...Repaired.

Sleeved engine (stroker) is at machine shop awaiting shipment to WPC.

Goldylocks (Gadget's first sleeved engine by Darton), is awaiting assembly of short block. Then can be assembled and installed in truck. Bored over from 3.701" to 3.804"

OMG!

I have an oil leak now because of pressurizing the crank case. Though I only pressurized it for a very short time, seems like the rear crank seal. A very small leak though, but it is staining my drive way.

Mine started leaking from the timing cover. Near the power steering unit. Created a disatrous domino effect.

Now, any time I install a timing cover, I add more silicone to the outside at that specific location. Just to be on the safe side.

I despise oil leaks. :motz:

I feel you. The only way I can fix mine is by removing the engine or the transmission. And that ain't gonna happen any time soon. Hopefully.

Encountered another problem with the Scion tC last night. We ordered ARP head studs from Summit racing, for the 2AZ-FE. Received them yesterday and installed the head. Proceeded to install the studs and then I noticed this....

Bottomed out, the shoulder sticks out this far above the surface of the head.






Definitely will not work. Apparently Dezod is the only place which sells them at the proper length.

I did come across something interesting though. It looks like the head studs for the 1GR are a direct drop in to the 2AZFE. Since the head bolts are the same. I just need to grab a stud from the machinist to verify.

Sounds like a job for a stack of washers lol... that sucks..

I'm working on a head job on a buddies 3.1 chevy. .

Lol.. not that kind of head job...

Actually, verified last night that the 1GR head studs fit perfectly in the 2AZ. That would be the next best option.

We used H Squared Performance Engines for the head work. Did a great job. Literally a mile from my house. Incredibly convenient.

This thread makes me want to start working on my truck.:smile: