Re-Installing My Supercharger

iniazy · Aug 18, 2014

I am starting this thread to show my progress on re-installing my supercharger. I will update this thread as I progress, so no big-bang build thread.

Starting with a Dyno run to get a pre-supercharger power and torque readout.

I started with removing my front drive shaft (the truck is a permanent 4WD with Torsen center diff) so I can put it on a 2WD dyno. Much cheaper than a 4WD dyno, and removing the shaft is free.

Last night I took it to a friend's Dynojet to get a reading, but the readout didn't seem right.

The curves were not curves at all; they were all straight lines:

It was giving 170 HP at 4800 RPM and 185.6 lbs.ft at also 4800, which doesn't make sense. Seems it only took a single sample at 4800 RPM and that's it.

I don't know why his dyno is doing that. I'm going to take it to another Dyno to get a good read.

I am going to set it up with only 4 PSI of boost, to be in the safe side. My friend was expecting a 250 HP WHP, assuming this reading is correct. I don't think I'll get that high with just 4 PSI. But it's a start.

Once I get this done successfully, I'll start rebuilding my old busted engine to handle up to 14 PSI.

Gadget · Aug 18, 2014

Did you lock the center diff?

If you just remove the front propeller shaft it will still try to send more power than is should to the front. The LSD is not one that will lock up so it is pumping a lot of power to the air.

If you lock the diff in the transfer case it will give you a perfect torque spit with no slippage.

That chart clearly shows something is whacked.

The trucks in the US dyno in the range of 200-210 stock to the wheels on a DynoJet.

G

iniazy · Aug 18, 2014

Yes Gadget, I did lock the center diff, or else it wouldn't have moved

With the center diff locked, 100% of the torque goes to the rear (since there's no front drive shaft to split to).

Today I took the car to a different Dyno (Mustang Dyno) and this time I got good readings and a proper curve.

Too bad he didn't have a printer; really frustrating. So I had to capture the chart with my phone camera.

182 HP at 5000 RPM (30% drivetrain loss) and 228 lbs.ft at 3700 RPM (16% drivetrain loss). Not bad, just about what I expected, and the torque is more than my expectation. Especially with my fat tires (32").

Now to turn my attention to the supercharger installation.

Torspd · Aug 18, 2014

Curious to see what another dyno shows. That is just weird.

Edit*** Nevermind. That looks a lot better. On a DynoJet that would be close to ~200 whp and 240 wtq.

Keep on coming with the progress :top:

TRDreams · Aug 22, 2014

snorkel looks great

iniazy · Aug 23, 2014

I got the supercharger installed today:

Shot a short video of the car running:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDwb8RhNVvo[/ame]

I took the car for a short spin.

The good news: no pinging. Last time I did it I used to get constant knocking, was driving me nuts, even with very low boost.

Bad news: I think my injectors or my pump don't provide enough fuel even for just 4 PSI. No matter how far I increase the flow in the MAF it stays at the same AFR, can't go below 13:1. I think the limitation is in the injectors, not the pump, because previously I had the injectors installed and I was able to bring the richness up no problem.

I have a set of high flow injectors that I bought from URD, I guess it's due for installation now. The reason I wasn't in favor of installing it is that it makes tuning the engine so much more difficult.

PS: I love that sucktion noise from the snorkel. Sounds phenomenal during acceleration and deceleration.

Torspd · Aug 23, 2014

You could run a vacuum hose to the top of the fuel pressure regulator. From a source that sees vacuum & boost. That will increase the fuel pressure and flow a little. It might help for the time being, but you still need larger injectors. Don't boost with it at that high an AFR.

Gadget · Aug 23, 2014

You are not running any intercooler at all now?

G

Torspd · Aug 23, 2014

If not, you really need one. Really

iniazy · Aug 23, 2014

No intercooler. I figured with very low boost I shouldn't need an intercooler. I know Bullet Racing has Intercooler as an option, and only 4 PSI the charge air should not get too hot.

Your thoughts?

Yes, my fuel pressure regulator is already hooked up to a vacuum line.

Torspd · Aug 23, 2014

Intercooler. Better to be safe and keep the IAT's down. A lot cheaper than an engine.

iniazy · Aug 24, 2014

It's not a matter of cost, it's a matter of space. Where am I going to put it?

My previous setup, the boxy intake that came with the kit, was absolutely crap and useless. It was a nightmare to install, and the cooler cores were always soaked in oil and did nothing to cool off the charge air.

Here's a picture of the crappy setup. Notice I can't reach the plenum bolts without completely dismantling everything, including the cooler cores.

My plan is to start very conservative, and gradually upgrade as I go along. I'll try to find a compact water-to-air intercooler that I can put in place of that charge air pipe (with the bypass valve).

Eventually I'll finish building my other engine and have proper power from that setup.

I'm planning on another cast aluminum intake manifold from south africa with three intercooler cores, but I'm not in a rush for that. They're asking $2000 for it! Here's a picture of it, a really sweet setup and easy to install:

Torspd · Aug 24, 2014

Wow! That is pretty cool looking!

iniazy · Aug 29, 2014

Got the injectors and spark plugs replaced. I'm using injectors that I bought off URD website.

Installing Denso Iradium Power plugs:

Gadget · Aug 29, 2014

What are you using for tuning?

G

iniazy · Aug 30, 2014

For now I am continuing to use the rubbish "PerfectPower." I tried to work on it this evening, but I think I better stop. I'll just drive it to a shop and have them wire in a new system and tune it. I'll let the pros do the job.

Perfect Power is absolutely rubbish, the processing is so slow it cannot keep up with the crank signal and always causes a code to be thrown related to crank signal. So by T'ing the crank signal (instead of intercepting), I cannot play with timing at all.

Also, I'm not sure it is doing its job with the 2nd O2 sensors. And it cannot control the injectors.

I'll just bite the bullet and install a different system. I'm starting to feel the pressure, I don't want to damage this engine too. Going to see what they have on offer. I think they have Haltek (I think), Unichip, and their own system.

Gadget · Aug 30, 2014

URD was a Perfect Power dealer some years ago. Never got one to work right ever and refused to sell them to customers.

Unless they have made some major break through in the last couple of years I would cautious.

G

iniazy · Sep 3, 2014

Thanks Gadget, that's very helpful.

I have an appointment with the tuner next Sunday to fit a new system for me. He says it is built specifically for his shop and I will not be able to fine-tune it myself.

Torspd · Sep 3, 2014

Good fortune be with you. I am excited to see this thing run on a proper tune.

There is always the cost versus "doing it right" conflict. In the end if not done right, it will always cost more. I have faced that dilemma many a time.

hiflyer · Sep 3, 2014

iniazy said:
Thanks Gadget, that's very helpful.

I have an appointment with the tuner next Sunday to fit a new system for me. He says it is built specifically for his shop and I will not be able to fine-tune it myself.

curious why you wouldn't go with a UCON, as it's pretty standard

things built 'just for one shop' scare me personally

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Re-Installing My Supercharger

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