Anyone have Code P2238?

Bang Bang · Jan 27, 2015

Ucon. I have the old software too, if that's anymore helpful.

Torspd · Jan 28, 2015

Need to contact URD then.

Bang Bang · Feb 12, 2015

Ucon retuned by Scott. All a/f and oxygen sensors replaced. Doesn't seem to buck on me anymore. Gotta drive it some more. I think the aem sensor is bad too. With laptop readings hovers right at 14.7 or so. a/f guage reading rich at in 13's. Now to get the transmission fixed.

Bang Bang · Feb 12, 2015

Well I guess I spoke too soon. Check light back on and bogged down when I hit the boost. Gota see what the code is.

Torspd · Feb 12, 2015

Post up what your code is please. Also, have you tried driving without the UCON? I don't know if you'd need go swap injectors or not. You would though. If so, just stay out of boost and see how it drives.

TRON · Feb 12, 2015

Bang Bang said:
Well I guess I spoke too soon. Check light back on and bogged down when I hit the boost. Gota see what the code is.

If it's code 2238... I wouldn't change anything; take the ucon out, and see if p2238 comes up on the trd reflash. Remember, once the ucon is out, you'll get a CEL for 0420 and 0430 assuming you don't have O2 sim installed.

Bang Bang · Feb 13, 2015

Ok, I went to auto zone and this is what I got. Also I forgot to mention that the tire pressure light starting blinking continuously now as well. Anyways here are the codes I have.

B1600
P1355
P3232
C0E30...?
P365A
P2236
B0000

These are what the autozone employee wrote down for me. Before the tune and replacement of the sensors all I had was the bank 2 sensor 1 code.

SgtBadA · Feb 13, 2015

B1600 is a faulty anti theft system. P1355 is ignition coil D primary circuit malfunction, P2236 - O2 Sensor Signal Circuit Shorted to Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 3

Read more:*http://engine-codes.com/p2236.html#ixzz3Ren6QIWM

Gadget · Feb 13, 2015

I logged in to the Toyota system and I cannot find a reference to any of those codes listed.

The P codes would normally deal with the powertrain, engine and transmission

The B codes normally deal with the air bag system.

The C codes normally deal with the ABS and skid control system.

But, I cannot find any of them in TIS.

I would suggest removing the neg battery terminal for 30 minutes and give everything a good reset.

G

SgtBadA · Feb 13, 2015

Alot of those,codes are generic codes to ford and dodge.

Bang Bang · Feb 13, 2015

It was a female who checked the codes so maybe she never cleared what was on it before.. I'm going out of town this weekend so I will disconnect it before I leave and see how that goes. I just hope it's not the truck computer. Either way it sucks.

Bang Bang · Feb 17, 2015

Well, I left the battery disconnected all weekend. I came back and connected it, let it warm up for a few minutes and drove it around the block. I got on it a couple of times and it didn't stumble or anything. This morning I let it warm up before work and I get in to leave and check light is back on so I guess I will unhook the ucon and possibly try getting the Trd tune and see if that works out. Does anyone know where to find the info on testing the pins on the computer. I've seen a few companies that repair auto cpu's for under 200. Gadget could I just send you both for a fee.

Torspd · Feb 17, 2015

Not sure if you have to swap injectors or not. If it is just pulling out the UCON, that will be quite easy. That will give you an idea if something is going on with the UCON itself. Keep us posted how the troubleshooting goes.

XTINCT_yota · May 1, 2015

My truck just had the CEL pop on yesterday. I'm running N/A, so I'm kinda confused how mine is on. Same code is popping up, P2238. Truck is running fine while I drive, but it kinda stumbles when I idle without AC on. Gadget, please tune in and assist! THANKS

Gadget · May 1, 2015

You might have a bad O2 sensor.

G

XTINCT_yota · May 1, 2015

How would I have a bad O2 sensor with 15k miles though? Could it be the wire harness that I bought from you guys?

Gadget · May 1, 2015

You most likely have a bad O2 sensor.

They are very brittle and can be easily damaged doing a header installation.

You can test it by removing both front sensors and swapping the sides. If the code follows the sensor, you most likely have a bad sensor.

G

thewarriordinghy · May 2, 2015

Gadget said:
You most likely have a bad O2 sensor.

They are very brittle and can be easily damaged doing a header installation.

You can test it by removing both front sensors and swapping the sides. If the code follows the sensor, you most likely have a bad sensor.

G

what helps prevent that during a header install?

Gadget · May 2, 2015

Being careful. I have broken one myself doing a header install.

G

thewarriordinghy · May 2, 2015

Gadget said:
Being careful. I have broken one myself doing a header install.

G

how good are the instructions headers come with?

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