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WRAF Ext. and ARP Studs done

Amo-cat3

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Well finally got to pulling the headers to get the bungs welded in the collectors. I paid $120 for both sides and the welds are very nice and clean.

full header.jpg

head bung.jpg

Passenger side wraf - lot's of clearance:

close up pass shot.jpg

passenger shot.jpg

The ARP Stud install was not as smooth as planned. The removal was a pain, I had easy access but those stock studs would barely budge. I used a 6mm socket and went real slow. I stripped the tip on one so I left that one in, another one the tip of the stud broke off into the socket and the other two on passenger side I just could not get a good angle to where I could get enough pressure to even attempt to remove the studs. The ARP Studs that I installed went in smooth. Just went slow with the double nut technique.

double nut.jpg

side block.jpg


The acorn style nuts on the arp stud kit are 10mm. Is there an advantage to this style nut, they seem that they could be easily stripped.

I had the hardest time getting the driver side header back in from the bottom so I disconnected the steering intermediate shaft (I didn't have to do this last time). This time I used Felpro gaskets and did not use any RTV sealant. For those that wonder if they should use rtv when installing headers I was told by the guy who welded my bungs that since my header to block flange was so thick that it is less likely to warp, therefore sealant was not neccessary.

The mail delivery came just in time as I was waiting for my y-pipe crush gasket from URD. Got everything tightened up and the moment of truth came.

She started right up and no CEL - so far so good. Went for a test run and my exhaust must of been leaky prior to this. Now it was toned down and seemed smoother.

Now the "Pulley install" shall commence in 48hrs.
 

Torspd

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Nice welds, and now you are getting a much better/safer reading in the headers. The sound will also change a little (probably very little, but still) due to the obstruction being removed from the center primary. Plus that one will also flow better now as well.

I can promise that the new ARP nuts are still stronger than the factory nuts, even though they are smaller. Just a much harder steel. Not to be compared to the Allen key of the stud. That just has a lot of leverage on it and is very small.

Year past on those factory studs makes them fight any form of removal. Grumpy and i had to grind the nut off of one or two of his a little while ago. Toyota used no anti-seize and it was a REAL PAIN. So I understand your problems with the factory ones as well.
 

Amo-cat3

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Thnx Torspd,

Yeah, those acorn nuts got me worried but for anyone thinking to use a allen wrench or allen socket bit to try to put the studs in don't even try - stick to bottoming out the nut on the new stud then slowly wrench it in. Gotta take the tires off and get in from the side.
universal ratchet.jpg


Now my exhaust sounds like there is a resonator on it (must of had leaks). With the new felpro header gasket and URD's crush gaskets it is sealed up good. Here's a pic of the crush gasket that came out.
old crush.jpg


I had two older crush gaskets laying around all different sizes. Here's the two older styles on from left and the new heavy duty one from URD on right (looks like lead covered).
crush 3 compare.jpg


Side view you can see thickness difference.
crush compare.jpg

Gadgets extension harnesses are top notch - exact factory match. Just to be safe I put di-electric grease in all the extension harness connections.
 

Amo-cat3

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I got the URD pulley in this morning no probs. Went smooth as butter. I had the OEM 5 ton puller and slid the stock pulley of no prob:
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014WDK5A/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00"]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014WDK5A/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00[/ame]

Used this strap wrench: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J3KZPS/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00"]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J3KZPS/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00[/ame]

The URD install tool worked perfectly. Boiled pulley for about 5 minutes. Luckily no sheared threads. The trickiest part was determining when to stop tightening it on flush. I removed the tool 3 times to make sure it was flush. FYI, you will feel when the pulley pushes flush with the snout shaft, it'll start to get hard to turn.

I am still an idiot because I made a video for all of you. - guess what.........I had the camera on audio only. I just uploaded the video and wondered why it uploaded so fast to my laptop. F'in audio only, I even bought a small tripod so i can video this. Well, time to go put a smile on my face as I haven't started her up yet for a test drive. Will be back to update.

Dam'n it - audio only:stupid:
 

Torspd

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Audiofile....lol. It is all good though. Now you can make some acceleration vids. ;)
 

Amo-cat3

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SWEEEET!!, the supercharger really is snappier now. Kicks in nice at half throttle. Haven't done any WOT runs yet. Fuel trims look Ok and A/F on scangauge looks OK. Will work on vids for exhaust/resonator setup and some accel vids. Also gotta do a data log.

Torspd - do you know how to read the X1 data logs or only G and APR can do this? Are there any other members on here that know how to work with the X1 tuning parameters?
 

1GRracer

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If you have an X1 it's really simple. You'll plug it in, your computer, to your truck and open xtune, then when your ready to start a datalog click sample.
 

Amo-cat3

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If you have an X1 it's really simple. You'll plug it in to your truck and open xtune, then when your ready to start a datalog click sample.

That part I have figured out, I mean the actual data that you record. To open those up to see if and where there might be issues and then making changes in the file. I know how to use excel/spreadsheet but I don't know where to start with the x1 software.
 

1GRracer

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It all depends on where you want to make changes. You can make changes to the tune, but I'd recommend making a new reversion of the calibration you want to change to be on the safe side. You can also have multiple tunes open so you can have a way of comparing them. If you open them you have 3 options, but the two you'll want are AprCal and AprData. The data is the datalog and the cal is the tune. If you want to change you afr, for example, you'll go to AprCal in that folder there are sub folders, look for the fuel folder, in there will be alot of choices but if you look you'll find AFR base listed as R3. That is what you want to make changes. In it there will be a engine load listing and your "target" afr. Say you want to change 100% load afr at 3000 rpm from 13.00 to 12.50. Click that rpm and load and change it. Easy. However you will have to change that whole load section, it will not compensate for you. You can make changes from your datalogs. Like if you demand a 10.00 afr in the calibration but its giving you 12.00 afr as shown by the data log you'll need to make changes to the fueling.
 

Amo-cat3

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Thanks for the info 1GRacer, and for wording it out so clear. I guess I don't really need to get that technical as I only need a daily driver tune. I already got a revised calibration from David at APR which cured my starting issues and rich condition. I'll hit him up with a log w/ my new pulley and get a one time revised calibration. It's been a while but if I recall i should do a data log from a running start of about 20mph - is this right?
 

1GRracer

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Vehicle speed doesn't matter, you want to start a pull of 2000 rpm's in at least 2nd gear and pull to redline. How rich was your truck? I would look at the timing being added of that tune and the fuel load just to be safe. Just take a data log and look at your afr's.
 

Amo-cat3

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I'm auto so I figured hit the sample button around 20mph then stomp on it. I don't know specifically if it was rich, but after I loaded the revised calibration it started quickly and no strong gas smell anymore. I assumed it was running rich at startup. I got my new laptop battery in the mail yesterday and only put it on the charger now so hopefully laptop will be mobile tomorow.
 

Amo-cat3

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Just a little more info for installing ARP head studs. I was watching on Powerblock this morning and they were installing ARP studs into their engine build. They recommend that studs should be installed "hand tight only" into the block, and to only torqued down the nuts. This way your not twisting the internal threads and adding undue pressure.

As for the ARP Studs for our trucks I doubt that most of you will be able to install them with finger strength, however the studs will go in smoothly if you bottom out a nut on the stud and "gently" ratchet them in. My stock studs were fairly clean and rust free, but because the block is aluminum I think the softer metal really hugs the studs so they don't spin out crisply. My truck sat overnight so when I removed the studs the block was cold, maybe might be easier if block was warm, but who wants to work on a hot exhaust...
 
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