Well finally got to pulling the headers to get the bungs welded in the collectors. I paid $120 for both sides and the welds are very nice and clean.
Passenger side wraf - lot's of clearance:
The ARP Stud install was not as smooth as planned. The removal was a pain, I had easy access but those stock studs would barely budge. I used a 6mm socket and went real slow. I stripped the tip on one so I left that one in, another one the tip of the stud broke off into the socket and the other two on passenger side I just could not get a good angle to where I could get enough pressure to even attempt to remove the studs. The ARP Studs that I installed went in smooth. Just went slow with the double nut technique.
The acorn style nuts on the arp stud kit are 10mm. Is there an advantage to this style nut, they seem that they could be easily stripped.
I had the hardest time getting the driver side header back in from the bottom so I disconnected the steering intermediate shaft (I didn't have to do this last time). This time I used Felpro gaskets and did not use any RTV sealant. For those that wonder if they should use rtv when installing headers I was told by the guy who welded my bungs that since my header to block flange was so thick that it is less likely to warp, therefore sealant was not neccessary.
The mail delivery came just in time as I was waiting for my y-pipe crush gasket from URD. Got everything tightened up and the moment of truth came.
She started right up and no CEL - so far so good. Went for a test run and my exhaust must of been leaky prior to this. Now it was toned down and seemed smoother.
Now the "Pulley install" shall commence in 48hrs.
Passenger side wraf - lot's of clearance:
The ARP Stud install was not as smooth as planned. The removal was a pain, I had easy access but those stock studs would barely budge. I used a 6mm socket and went real slow. I stripped the tip on one so I left that one in, another one the tip of the stud broke off into the socket and the other two on passenger side I just could not get a good angle to where I could get enough pressure to even attempt to remove the studs. The ARP Studs that I installed went in smooth. Just went slow with the double nut technique.
The acorn style nuts on the arp stud kit are 10mm. Is there an advantage to this style nut, they seem that they could be easily stripped.
I had the hardest time getting the driver side header back in from the bottom so I disconnected the steering intermediate shaft (I didn't have to do this last time). This time I used Felpro gaskets and did not use any RTV sealant. For those that wonder if they should use rtv when installing headers I was told by the guy who welded my bungs that since my header to block flange was so thick that it is less likely to warp, therefore sealant was not neccessary.
The mail delivery came just in time as I was waiting for my y-pipe crush gasket from URD. Got everything tightened up and the moment of truth came.
She started right up and no CEL - so far so good. Went for a test run and my exhaust must of been leaky prior to this. Now it was toned down and seemed smoother.
Now the "Pulley install" shall commence in 48hrs.