ntinhri
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Ok gang heres my first attempt at doing a write up. If any others have suggestions please feel free to give input and I'll insert it in the write up..
This install was a 6 hour project for me. Im not a fan of air tools only cause I like to feel the bolts turning. Ive cross threaded and mard up too much stuff with air. However air is always nice to have when you have longer bolts..
Tools needed:
Jack & (4)Jack stands (Or a truck lift, I wasnt that lucky)
Trans Jack
Might need bricks or something to set your stands on if it isnt high enough
10mm sockets
12mm sockets and wrench
14mm sockets and wrench
17mm sockets and wrench
7/8 open end, box wrench (buddy bar)
Pry or wonder bar
Air rattchet and impact gun
oil catch can
funnel
min of 3' of 1/2" extentions
1/4" or 3/8" 12 and 14 ratchets
Brake cleaner
Penatrating oil/spray
1.9 qt's of MT-90 trans fluid:top:
paper towels
file and/or rat tail (round file)
Torque wrench
Breaker bar
Im sure I missed a few but no real special tools are required
Ok here it is.......
get the truck on a LEVEL surface, then Jack that fat girl up!!
I used bricks on the front and went as high as I could, then I lifted the rear as high as I could. the rear was supported on the X-brace.
Go ahead and remove the shifter.. you can probly get by by not removeing it but its so tight you might scratch or damage the shifter rod.. FYI we tried to drop the trans with the shifter attach and it got real tight.. I suggust take 5 mins and remove the shifter and save your self a scratched up shifter rod..
Need to drian the trans fluid , its the bolt there under the trans..
good time to spray down exhaust bolts to ensure the break loose easily.
Remove the drive shaft.. the 4 bolts at the rear will require 2 14mm wrenchs and a buddy bar for sure.. them things are TIGHT!!
now undo the 2 bolts that hold the center of the drive shaft. 14mm (I think)
if the trans hasnt drained completly when you pull the drive shaft out have the oil pan at the ready, you might have a lil dribble out.
dont forget to unhook the electrical connections.. o2 sensors speed sensor ect.. there is a wire harness that goes to both sides of the trans..
I removed the cross brace next.. 14mm bolts
next I removed the 4 14mm bolts that hold the trans to the cross member.. you will need the wonder bar to pry the cross member out, I'd say have someone or hold the trans so it doesnt just fall.. let it down easy (your your first girl friend)
next I removed the y-pipe.. after you bolt it (front and back) yoou can move the cat back over and you can push the y-pipe straight back, its tight but itll fit.. just work it!! Dont forget the rubber things that holds up the y-pipe..
while your unhooking the y-pipe go ahead an unbolt the header from the black bracket on the side of the trans.
remove the inspect cover, over the slave cylinder..
next unbolt the slave cylinder and the valve above the slave cylinder, we could not get the top bolt until we lowered the trans, so get what you can get now and get that last bolt after you drop the trans a lil bit..
now you can move the trans Jack in and start removing the trans bolts.. they are a mix of 14mm and 17mm FYI.. the trans bolts are all the goldish color.. I suggest breaking them loose, but leaving them all or most in until you get the top 2 bolts out..
THE BEST WAY TO REMOVE THE TOP 2 BOLTS, IS TO LET THE TRANS HANG AND USE YOUR 3' WRATCHET DRIVER TO UNDO THEM. IT WAS SUGGEST BY OTHERS TO USE AIR.. THE BOLTS ARE LONG..
after you loosen the bolts use your trans jack and work it off the engine.. DONT FORGET to unbolt the top bolt on the slave cylinder valve.. also as you lower the trans double check the the wires and the hard slave cylinder pipe.. dont pinch anyone that stuff cause itll cost you.. BECAREFUL!! double check!! look for these..
now that the trans is down just slide it to the back of the truck and outta the way..
heres the clutch, use a air ratchet and the bolts zip right off..
next use a air gun to remove the flywheel.. I went easy and took them off slowly.. (as you can see it was time for it to go..)
dont forget to replace the throw out bearing.. its held on the folk by 2 clips.. they are kinda a pain to remove.. just take your time you'll get it.. They are clips like spring wires, whats use on front breaks comminly.. yup thats my lil helper (hi jason)
This install was a 6 hour project for me. Im not a fan of air tools only cause I like to feel the bolts turning. Ive cross threaded and mard up too much stuff with air. However air is always nice to have when you have longer bolts..
Tools needed:
Jack & (4)Jack stands (Or a truck lift, I wasnt that lucky)
Trans Jack
Might need bricks or something to set your stands on if it isnt high enough
10mm sockets
12mm sockets and wrench
14mm sockets and wrench
17mm sockets and wrench
7/8 open end, box wrench (buddy bar)
Pry or wonder bar
Air rattchet and impact gun
oil catch can
funnel
min of 3' of 1/2" extentions
1/4" or 3/8" 12 and 14 ratchets
Brake cleaner
Penatrating oil/spray
1.9 qt's of MT-90 trans fluid:top:
paper towels
file and/or rat tail (round file)
Torque wrench
Breaker bar
Im sure I missed a few but no real special tools are required
Ok here it is.......
get the truck on a LEVEL surface, then Jack that fat girl up!!
I used bricks on the front and went as high as I could, then I lifted the rear as high as I could. the rear was supported on the X-brace.
Go ahead and remove the shifter.. you can probly get by by not removeing it but its so tight you might scratch or damage the shifter rod.. FYI we tried to drop the trans with the shifter attach and it got real tight.. I suggust take 5 mins and remove the shifter and save your self a scratched up shifter rod..
Need to drian the trans fluid , its the bolt there under the trans..
good time to spray down exhaust bolts to ensure the break loose easily.
Remove the drive shaft.. the 4 bolts at the rear will require 2 14mm wrenchs and a buddy bar for sure.. them things are TIGHT!!
now undo the 2 bolts that hold the center of the drive shaft. 14mm (I think)
if the trans hasnt drained completly when you pull the drive shaft out have the oil pan at the ready, you might have a lil dribble out.
dont forget to unhook the electrical connections.. o2 sensors speed sensor ect.. there is a wire harness that goes to both sides of the trans..
I removed the cross brace next.. 14mm bolts
next I removed the 4 14mm bolts that hold the trans to the cross member.. you will need the wonder bar to pry the cross member out, I'd say have someone or hold the trans so it doesnt just fall.. let it down easy (your your first girl friend)
next I removed the y-pipe.. after you bolt it (front and back) yoou can move the cat back over and you can push the y-pipe straight back, its tight but itll fit.. just work it!! Dont forget the rubber things that holds up the y-pipe..
while your unhooking the y-pipe go ahead an unbolt the header from the black bracket on the side of the trans.
remove the inspect cover, over the slave cylinder..
next unbolt the slave cylinder and the valve above the slave cylinder, we could not get the top bolt until we lowered the trans, so get what you can get now and get that last bolt after you drop the trans a lil bit..
now you can move the trans Jack in and start removing the trans bolts.. they are a mix of 14mm and 17mm FYI.. the trans bolts are all the goldish color.. I suggest breaking them loose, but leaving them all or most in until you get the top 2 bolts out..
THE BEST WAY TO REMOVE THE TOP 2 BOLTS, IS TO LET THE TRANS HANG AND USE YOUR 3' WRATCHET DRIVER TO UNDO THEM. IT WAS SUGGEST BY OTHERS TO USE AIR.. THE BOLTS ARE LONG..
after you loosen the bolts use your trans jack and work it off the engine.. DONT FORGET to unbolt the top bolt on the slave cylinder valve.. also as you lower the trans double check the the wires and the hard slave cylinder pipe.. dont pinch anyone that stuff cause itll cost you.. BECAREFUL!! double check!! look for these..
now that the trans is down just slide it to the back of the truck and outta the way..
heres the clutch, use a air ratchet and the bolts zip right off..
next use a air gun to remove the flywheel.. I went easy and took them off slowly.. (as you can see it was time for it to go..)
dont forget to replace the throw out bearing.. its held on the folk by 2 clips.. they are kinda a pain to remove.. just take your time you'll get it.. They are clips like spring wires, whats use on front breaks comminly.. yup thats my lil helper (hi jason)
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