1500 Watts RMS - Battery & Alternator Upgrade?
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XRnRElite77
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alternator = no the stock is fine
Battery = OPTIMA YELLOW top :top:
Its designed for high amp draw and sound systems. I use it with stock alt and my system is 1400 watts rms and with HIDS on fog and Headlights i have ZERO issues.
Make sure to post pics when complete :biggrin:
Battery = OPTIMA YELLOW top :top:
Its designed for high amp draw and sound systems. I use it with stock alt and my system is 1400 watts rms and with HIDS on fog and Headlights i have ZERO issues.
Make sure to post pics when complete :biggrin:
shaggy08xr
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As the guys have said before and some of the others have said just change the battery. The stock alt.s are designed to withstand a good load and some of the guys here have some pretty mean systems on stock alternators.
gunner76137
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I had a Optima red top and 1200 watt amp plus all of my underbodies and led,s and stuff .I do alot of night shows and always running down the battery, well the red top lasted 1 season
shaggy08xr
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^^^^did you have to change the alternator?
rich017
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Before an alternator upgrade you would need a 2nd battery like a kinetik battery, which will run your system off of that battery. Alternator upgrades are for people like Steve Meade...
Audio shops charge around $250 and that includes the install
Audio shops charge around $250 and that includes the install
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I have stock batt & alt runing Polk PA1200.1 and Polk PA5004.
You dont need a capacitor
Try your system out first, then if you are having problems upgrade.
Unless money is no factor then do whatever you want.
Best to start with the cheap basics first, like the "big 3" wiring upgrade, then bat, then alt
Capacitors only mask problems, they dont fix em
You dont need a capacitor
Try your system out first, then if you are having problems upgrade.
Unless money is no factor then do whatever you want.
Best to start with the cheap basics first, like the "big 3" wiring upgrade, then bat, then alt
Capacitors only mask problems, they dont fix em
^this. DO NOT ever let any ever talk you into buyin a capacitor. Please. I'd hate to see a xru member tricked into this false logic.
-i had a 600 watt alpine, stock battery/stock alt, and i saw dimming at full volume. minor dimming though. But when i upgraded to my Audiopipe 30001d (3000 rms), i could barely turn it up without dimming. Now i have stock alt with a sprinter battery (106lbs.) I get minimal dimming at full volume. I know if i sanded down my ground on my amp, and did a big three it would almost eliminate my dimming.
long story short, try it out, if you have slight dimming, do the big three. If you have bad dimming, do the big three and a better battery.
xrunnerpower
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with 1500 rms you can use a Red Optima and 2.0 Farad capacitor and you will be fine
XRnRElite77
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Everyone has an opinion but i have installed about 30 systems thru the years and im no expert just know what works well and doesnt but i have never used a cap and have never had a BIG issue. LVXR and REVOBREAKER are correct about what you should do about try it first with basics then add or delete things to make it FIT YOUR NEEDS AND DESIRES.
Caps just store charge from the battery so that when large amount of Power is required by the amp its pulls from the cap, problem with caps are is that i CAN wear out you battery and cause improper amp draw by the amp which will blow fuses like a mofo..... I have talked to alot of top rated car audio shops and they all said that caps are good if running more than 2 amps just for the fact that for bass comps you need the power right away and thats what caps are designed for. for basic street apps no need for one.
Like i said im not an expert and people do what they want in the end, but i run 1400 watts with yellow top and stock alt with no problem, I HAVE NO DIMMING even with volume cranked.
GL with decision though
Caps just store charge from the battery so that when large amount of Power is required by the amp its pulls from the cap, problem with caps are is that i CAN wear out you battery and cause improper amp draw by the amp which will blow fuses like a mofo..... I have talked to alot of top rated car audio shops and they all said that caps are good if running more than 2 amps just for the fact that for bass comps you need the power right away and thats what caps are designed for. for basic street apps no need for one.
Like i said im not an expert and people do what they want in the end, but i run 1400 watts with yellow top and stock alt with no problem, I HAVE NO DIMMING even with volume cranked.
GL with decision though
chadfo
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Caps get a bad rap because there are too many people who don't have a clue spewing out bad information. Capacitors can be used for many different functions but in car audio they are used to supplement the power supply. The capacitor in effect acts as a second battery when there is a high current demand.
If the headlights dim when the bass hits, your amps are using more current then your power supply can handle. It is making mini brown-outs in the other systems of your truck. Electronic components don't like brown-outs. They like full power or no power. A capacitor will store energy and when the current demand exceeds what the power supply can handle, it'll discharge current into the system to keep all systems functioning at full power. A capacitor helps your whole electrical system, not just the amps.
The big 3 is definitely a recommended first upgrade but don't let anyone tell you capacitors are bad. I've run a 1 farad cap on a Hifonics 1600W amp for my subs and another Hifonics 300W amp for mids/highs. It had a voltage meter on it so I could monitor the system. The only time it would give any indication that it was being used was when I had the system at max volume and then it was very active. I never had a headlight dim when the cap was connected. I ran that same cap in several vehicles for several years and never had any type of electrical issues.
For anyone wondering about my credentials I took electronics for 3 years in high school. I was in the Navy for 6 years as a Sonar Technician (Electronics Technician specializing in Sonar equipment). I've done my own car stereo installing for 24 years. I don't know it all but I know enough to be dangerous.
If the headlights dim when the bass hits, your amps are using more current then your power supply can handle. It is making mini brown-outs in the other systems of your truck. Electronic components don't like brown-outs. They like full power or no power. A capacitor will store energy and when the current demand exceeds what the power supply can handle, it'll discharge current into the system to keep all systems functioning at full power. A capacitor helps your whole electrical system, not just the amps.
The big 3 is definitely a recommended first upgrade but don't let anyone tell you capacitors are bad. I've run a 1 farad cap on a Hifonics 1600W amp for my subs and another Hifonics 300W amp for mids/highs. It had a voltage meter on it so I could monitor the system. The only time it would give any indication that it was being used was when I had the system at max volume and then it was very active. I never had a headlight dim when the cap was connected. I ran that same cap in several vehicles for several years and never had any type of electrical issues.
For anyone wondering about my credentials I took electronics for 3 years in high school. I was in the Navy for 6 years as a Sonar Technician (Electronics Technician specializing in Sonar equipment). I've done my own car stereo installing for 24 years. I don't know it all but I know enough to be dangerous.
the theory of a cap is makes sense, but most people think 1.0 farad is sufficient for 1kw. not the case. especially listening to rap or anything with a lot of bass. one solid bass note and the cap is empty. if you are looking at it cost wise, the effectiveness vs. cost of a cap = fail. a capacitor bank (50 to 100 farads) or a batcap is helpful. but not as effective as a second battery.
but for the OP, if i were in your situation, big three, then battery upgrade, you'll be fine :top:
although i havent done the big three in my xrunner, it looks like an easy task, remove the battery and the alternator is right there near the top staring at you. no reaching far down in to the engine bay or feeling around with your hands. I really gotta make time to do mine :frown:
but for the OP, if i were in your situation, big three, then battery upgrade, you'll be fine :top:
although i havent done the big three in my xrunner, it looks like an easy task, remove the battery and the alternator is right there near the top staring at you. no reaching far down in to the engine bay or feeling around with your hands. I really gotta make time to do mine :frown:
