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whos sitting at 500+ and...

darthyota

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Not raising the rpm limiter, and a very safe tune(not adding gobbs of timing), I can see 10 psi on a turbo setup. I wouldn't go any higher than that though.

That would be low 400+ whp, and near 500 wtq.

now what about on twins?
 

X-roller

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Not raising the rpm limiter, and a very safe tune(not adding gobbs of timing), I can see 10 psi on a turbo setup. I wouldn't go any higher than that though.

That would be low 400+ whp, and near 500 wtq.

How are you coming up with that number? It's not the amount of psi this block can handle but the amount of power.... There is people that hit 12+ psi on the mk supercharger... I would put a cap of 500 HP on this motor before it becomes a ticking time bomb.

Another thing I might add is a guy that was going to build my intake told me to hold off on it because he is almost positive this will handle more than 15 psi safely... I think if we took out that useless flap we would have a pretty well designed intake... it's been flow tested and is very hard to beat... He said just because it's plastic doesn't mean it's bad... the LS intake are plastic and they handle 30 psi...
 
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Torspd

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I come up with that number very easily. Yes, those of us who run turbos know that same psi levels between different sized turbos will yield different amounts of volume due to their flow characteristics. Clearly. However, on the factory gearing, a properly sized turbo/turbos will net a range that has been proven time and again. Thus, my approximate estimation is in the proper range.

Also, if you look in the link I posted, look in my Sig, and look up Toon's current dyno, it will add credence to my comment.
 

Torspd

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I misunderstood what you originally meant. Due to the powder cast rods being very weak, the history of a little knock going a long way, and the fact that at 400 whp, the engine is already at twice its factory output. Those are reasons why I said to keep it around the low/mid 400's.

All of that being said, that is just my opinion. Everyone else is free to make their own judgements. :top:
 
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X-roller

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Yeah that's why I wouldn't really put a psi cap on this engine because we can't say 10 psi is the most you should run.... Depending on the size of the turbo is what will yield its thresholds so that's why its a lot easier to put an HP cap on this engine than to put a psi cap on it.
 

Torspd

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True. But that is why I mentioned a properly sized turbo. For a base reference, on a single setup, with a GT35 or Precision 6266, you will be in the afore mentioned close relative numbers, at said psi.

Throw on a GT 40........yeah......those numbers will change. Lol
 

X-roller

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True. But that is why I mentioned a properly sized turbo. For a base reference, on a single setup, with a GT35 or Precision 6266, you will be in the afore mentioned close relative numbers, at said psi.

Throw on a GT 40........yeah......those numbers will change. Lol

Lol... And if they don't then you are doing it wrong... :laugh:

problem is finding small v band turbos

That's actually not hard. Precision 6262 or a gt30 are fairly small for our trucks. Depending on when you want to make power will be your real deciding factor since you will be more focused on a/r than the size of the turbo.... the 6262 is good for low to mid range power but starts running out of steam in the higher range but if you get something in the 80s a/r then you will yield better numbers in the higher end. My current a/r is a .81 because I don't want to make power any sooner than 2800 because then ill just spin if it spools to quickly since we aren't really designed for low end power. I wanna stay out of high tq range and make more HP
 
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Toon714

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My gt35r is vband everything. Garret/tial turbo ftw! All stainless exhaust housong with vbands. :)
*** those 4 bolts. Just take the vband and u take ur turbo off in 1 min. Lol
 

Torspd

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problem is finding small v band turbos

TiAL makes a stainless turbine housing which is all v-band. Precision makes one as well which is cast. Vibrant performance and Reid Washbon both make v-band (male/female) flanges which are 2.25". Not hard at all to find the proper size. Just need to know where to get them. Dezod might also carry them. :top:
 

darthyota

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well I've been hitting up turbo manufacturers sites and I'm not seeing anything in the gt28 range in a v band housing
 

Torspd

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A GT 30 would be to small for a single setup. That would be good for a set of twins, if you had a built engine. Otherwise, a pair of GT28's is what you would want for non-built to built with rods and pistons. GT3582R is the best size for a single, if you stay with Garrett. If you use the TiAL SS turbine housing, then you need the 1.09 A/R because the inlet is 2.5" you can go lower on the A/R with a T4 flange, since it a rectangular 3" inlet.

With Precision,a 6262 with a .82 A/R or higher on the turbine housing. Or a 6266 with a .68 to .81 A/R. Both of those being on the T4 flange inlet. If you use the vband inlet housing, it will have to be a .82 A/R since they don't make a smaller or larger.
 

darthyota

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im thinking for twins but with the gt30's could you not make the same power with less boost then with the gt28's therefore having a cooler intake charge making things more efficient?
 

JFrame

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Why I had originally asked was I'm interested in putting down more power in my truck and it seems like for the money turbo is going to net the best results if you can find someone who can do a good custom job.

Well...I found a local shop that is well known in the area and was talking to them about doing a setup for the X and they wanted to know what power I wanted out of this thing and I didn't even know what to say back....all of it?!?! Lol. I wasn't sure what numbers to even shoot for without having to replace all my internals. In time I plan to do gears, trans, clutch and what not but just can't afford to do everything at once.
 
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