Re-Installing My Supercharger

[iniazy]

Business right off, for Gadget, in the name of testing. Ship your truck.

Where are you iniazy???

In Saudi Arabia

Photobucket screwed me. Now they want me to pay to host my pictures in forums. They want me to pay $400 per year for a plus account, to enable third party image hosting. I'll have to find a new hosting site.

How come this isn't happening to anyone else? Are you all paid customers to Photobucket?

 

[iniazy]

@Gadget thoughts?

Can you not just do a test drive without the filter and see how it performs?

That's way too risky. Our climate is very very Dusty.

 

[Gadget]

Looks like Photobucket got me too. It was completely free for many years. Now they have made it so they hold your pics for ransom.

If you find another solution, please share.

 

[Torspd]

Flickr I believe has a terabyte free.

Got me too. Screw that.

 

[iniazy]

I am glad to report that looks like my AFR sensor problem is fixed. Turns out just a faulty AFR sensor. Nothing to do with the harness.

I'm very relieved my harness is ok.

I haven't seen the problem show up again since I put back my old AFR sensor. Running correctly now in closed loop.

I've discovered an AFR sensor problem in my Fortuner, that explains why for so long I've felt the car getting sluggish when driving for a while in the extreme heat.

A couple months ago I had done very precise fine-tuning on closed-loop operation, to get it just right. After I felt very satisfied, and got most closed-loop AFR above 12:1 AFR, I went on a road-trip. While going on the trip this is what showed up in my AFR gauge:


I was shocked, why is it getting so rich? I just finished getting closed loop done properly? So I thought there must be something wrong. I pulled out my OBDII scanner, started up my tablet, and got connected to my ECU, to find this:


My right bank sensor was giving a wrong reading, and the right bank fuel trims are going haywire. Left bank is doing ok. So I knew this is either a bad AFR calibrator, a bad AFR sensor, or a bad harness. This problem only appears after driving for a while in the hot weather. Doesn't appear in the winter.

When I got home, I swapped the yellow and blue wires in the AFR calibrator to see if the problem moves to the other side. It didn't, which clears the calibrator from any faults. So now it is down to the right-hand-side sensor or the harness. I replaced the right sensor with one old sensor I had in my stash, and I have not tested the car yet. If the sensor turns out to be cleared, then it is down to the harness, which is what I am suspecting.

The harness I have was a used one I bought a couple of years ago when I was trying to get the UCON EMS working, and after installing it found that the right hand sensor wires were cut and then reattached by twisting them together, without crimping or soldiering. So I fixed that by soldering them properly a couple of years ago. I think the soldiering that was done is causing some current to escape some how, causing the AFR reading to get thrown off, when the heat is cranked up and the wires/soldering expand. Some how. This explains the high heat sluggishness, when the right bank goes down to 10.5-11:1 AFR at partial throttle, the engine will definitely lose a lot of power. Now whenever I start feeling it getting sluggish, I look down to the AFR gauge and find that the problem is happening again.

I am now certain my car was built by Murphy.

 

[Gadget]

Can't do that......

The Toyota ECU constantly recalibrates that front sensor. If you have it skewed all the time in closed loop eventually it will recalibrate what you have done out. You need to limit jacking around with that front sensor and only do it when you need to in boost.

 

[iniazy]

Can't do that......

The Toyota ECU constantly recalibrates that front sensor. If you have it skewed all the time in closed loop eventually it will recalibrate what you have done out. You need to limit jacking around with that front sensor and only do it when you need to in boost.

I think you misunderstood. I had a faulty sensor, which kept flooding my right bank cylinders when it got hot. The problem was solved when I replaced it.

 

[Gadget]

OK sorry.

 

[iniazy]

A few weeks ago my AEM 320 lph pump failed for some reason. It failed while I was on a road trip, and had to tow the truck back home. Really surprised it failed, given I only have about 50,000 km on it.

I just ordered a 255 lph DeatschWerks pump from urd. I hope they are of good quality, dropping the tank and unscrewing the top is no fun.

 

[Torspd]

That had to be quite the inconvenient hassle. Sorry to hear that.

The Deatschwerks pump in my Bimmer has been going strong for three years now.

 

[iniazy]

I'm making 15 PSI of boost! Yaaaay!

I recently started noticing my boost dropping again, going down to 4-5 psi only. Not again! So I decided to try a new thing. I took the hood off, and installed a pod filter poking out of the engine bay and into fresh air for maximum airflow. Voila! 15 PSI of boost! That's the boost I expected from a -91 supercharger.

Turns out my problems have only been due to airflow, from my air filteration solutions. So my old supercharger is still ok.

The tune went into areas in the map I have never tuned before, so it was very rich at that spot. I've dialed it up a bit since, from around 10 to around 11. The AFR gauge output to the MAP-ECU shows a lower number than the number on the gauge, so a 9 in the graph is equivalent to 10 in reality, and as shown in the gauge.

I need to find a solution for my air filter restriction.

Edit: oh yes, I also replaced my fuel pump, and the new one is working great.

See pictures attached below.

 

[XeddeX]

Iniazy,

Is that an Optima yellow top in the front left corner of your engine bay? Can the battery be relocated elsewhere and then route the intake to that vacated area? Maybe some NACA ducting can then channel air to that spot and maybe a "pre-filter" sock on the air filter can help with the dusty environment if needed.

 

[iniazy]

Iniazy,

Is that an Optima yellow top in the front left corner of your engine bay? Can the battery be relocated elsewhere and then route the intake to that vacated area? Maybe some NACA ducting can then channel air to that spot and maybe a "pre-filter" sock on the air filter can help with the dusty environment if needed.

Yes it is.

Indeed that would be my last resort, but I try not to resort to it because it will be hard to find another place for the battery. Plus I would lose use of my snorkel, which would be a shame.

 

[iniazy]

Finally I get my hand on a URD air filter housing from the MK3 kit! I've been looking for this intake for a long time, and finally I found that a friend of mine in Kuwait had the kit installed, and he went for an open pod filter instead of the URD intake housing. Now I've installed it, and I am a little disappointed. I'm making much more boost than before, hitting 11.4 PSI, but no where near the 14.7 PSI I got with the open air pod filter. I will replace the air element with a drop-in KandN unit, to improve air flow. Maybe I'll be able to reach that 14.7 again.

I have to give it to Gadget, this intake air filter housing is so well and nicely made, it is almost like a factory setup, except that it is made from cast aluminum instead of typical plastic stuff from the factory.

Here's a picture of the setup with the URD intake, nevermind the dust, I don't have the capacity or breath to clean it up:

 

[NHXRUNNER]

Finally I get my hand on a URD air filter housing from the MK3 kit! I've been looking for this intake for a long time, and finally I found that a friend of mine in Kuwait had the kit installed, and he went for an open pod filter instead of the URD intake housing. Now I've installed it, and I am a little disappointed. I'm making much more boost than before, hitting 11.4 PSI, but no where near the 14.7 PSI I got with the open air pod filter. I will replace the air element with a drop-in KandN unit, to improve air flow. Maybe I'll be able to reach that 14.7 again.

I have to give it to Gadget, this intake air filter housing is so well and nicely made, it is almost like a factory setup, except that it is made from cast aluminum instead of typical plastic stuff from the factory.

Here's a picture of the setup with the URD intake, nevermind the dust, I don't have the capacity or breath to clean it up:

If I remember correctly Gadget is molding plastic ones now.....

 

[FinnJ]

Here's a picture of the setup with the URD intake, nevermind the dust, I don't have the capacity or breath to clean it up:

Maybe you should try to change that snorkel corrugated hose to some smooth one. That makes a lot of turbulence = slow down the air flow.

 

[iniazy]

Maybe you should try to change that snorkel corrugated hose to some smooth one. That makes a lot of turbulence = slow down the air flow.

I totally agree with you, I'm trying to find something. If you bump into something please let me know.

 

[Gadget]

You should try to get the rubber inlet boot and the fender inlet pipe from the guy you got the air box from. You will likely get better flow with just a cone filter on the supercharger inlet, but the idea is to pull in the coolest air you can and not the hottest.

 

[iniazy]

You should try to get the rubber inlet boot and the fender inlet pipe from the guy you got the air box from. You will likely get better flow with just a cone filter on the supercharger inlet, but the idea is to pull in the coolest air you can and not the hottest.

Exactly, which is why I went through all the trouble to get this air box.

The power difference is very evident after installing it.

 

[Gadget]

No doubt just a cone filter on the intake will perform better, but you have not install the whole intake system, just part of it and then you stuffed it up with that small crappy hose and such.