DeathShadow said:

I actually see more lock ups come out with prime in beat down mode.

I dont see over 61-62*C with IntelBurn, prime gets her up there when she was at 4.4 (up to 67)

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That is very VERY odd. Chances are, the thread settings aren't right in your IBT, or it's an older version. For the i7's to be tested properly, the thread setting has to be changed manually.

Vecte said:

That is very VERY odd. Chances are, the thread settings aren't right in your IBT, or it's an older version. For the i7's to be tested properly, the thread setting has to be changed manually.

Click to expand...

Yep I change the thread settings.

Ive just found that Prime makes things lock up that this app and the others do not (that's really always been the case for me).

There is no n00b sauce going down here sir.

When I can browse the net and listen to music during the test while everything is at 100%, its stable lol.

DeathShadow said:

Yep I change the thread settings.

Ive just found that Prime makes things lock up that this app and the others do not (that's really always been the case for me).

There is no n00b sauce going down here sir.

When I can browse the net and listen to music during the test while everything is at 100%, its stable lol.

Click to expand...

Word, didn't think that you would make a mistake, but had to check. Still, I just don't see how Prime can stress your system harder than Linpack. I set up a gruesome Torture Test, and I still couldn't get it to stress the system as hard as Linpack. Either way though, it doesn't matter, it's whatever works best for you.

I'm actually running Prime right now as a second verification. It's been running for 4 hours so far, and has passed everything. I was having an issue last night, where occasionally, the machine wouldn't post, and I had to clear CMOS to get it to post. I upped my VTT to 1.35v, and I'm going to see if this eliminates the issue. Don't really like the idea of my VTT being 1.35v, seeing as the Intel spec says absolute max for VTT should be 1.21v. Some people run it much higher than this, and there doesn't seem to be any issue with it.

Also Doug, do you leave Hyperthreading on? I have left it on so far, but I've never really dealt with it in the past. Does it generate a good amount of heat or not?

Vecte said:

Also Doug, do you leave Hyperthreading on? I have left it on so far, but I've never really dealt with it in the past. Does it generate a good amount of heat or not?

Click to expand...

Yes hyper threading and turbo mode are on for me (both create more heat).

Hyperthreading when it is utilized does make a lot more heat (but it also can significantly increase performance).

Sometimes Hyper-threading can make up to a 40% difference, sometimes only 3% :laugh:.

To be totally honest I dont even remember where I left off with my voltages - I know DRAM was 1.66V (with sag its still within spec).

I will have to check it out when I get home to see where I ended up on my voltages. This board I got is awesome, it will ****ing POST pretty much anything lol. This is probably the best OC board ive ever owned.

I had an EPOX board with dual BIOS before my last rig, I missed it - im glad its back.

The board I have is a pretty decent board it seems. My only qualm is when you first turn it on. EVGA has some kind of thing with the board that causes it to turn on, then turn off completely for a few seconds, then come back on and post. Supposed to be some kind of safety feature for overclocking, but it's bloody annoying because it can't be turned off.

When I get home, I'm going to disable HT and Turbo Mode, and see if my load temps are any different. To be honest, I will NEVER utilize them. I only build these computers to overclock, and not really do anything other than the occasional game, lol.

Vecte said:

The board I have is a pretty decent board it seems. My only qualm is when you first turn it on. EVGA has some kind of thing with the board that causes it to turn on, then turn off completely for a few seconds, then come back on and post. Supposed to be some kind of safety feature for overclocking, but it's bloody annoying because it can't be turned off.

When I get home, I'm going to disable HT and Turbo Mode, and see if my load temps are any different. To be honest, I will NEVER utilize them. I only build these computers to overclock, and not really do anything other than the occasional game, lol.

Click to expand...

Yeah a lot of boards do that but usually after a certain amount of successful posts they stop.

This board doesnt turn off - it strobes LEDs on the board prior to POST (kind of cool actually, it resembles and sounds like a camera flash).

It scared me the first time around... I was like WTF is that.

DeathShadow said:

Yeah a lot of boards do that but usually after a certain amount of successful posts they stop.

This board doesnt turn off - it strobes LEDs on the board prior to POST (kind of cool actually, it resembles and sounds like a camera flash).

It scared me the first time around... I was like WTF is that.

Click to expand...

Yea, I was a little freaked out at first with mine, especially with my luck the past 6 months! The only other complaint I have with the board is the diagnostic LED display. Once everything gets running, it reads temperature, however, it seems to read the incorrect temp. In the BIOS, in E-LEET, in CoreTemp, in RealTemp, and in Everest, the temp is read as if the Tj.max is 99. The diagnostic LED display reads the temp as if the Tj.max is 95...

Vecte said:

I definitely agree that you will never stress your system even close to what these programs do. I just prefer Linpack because it's much faster than Prime.

Also, here is a cheap Intel build that will pretty much rock any AMD setup:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115215
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130239
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145285

Click to expand...

eff you man.. now you're making me rethink the AMD build.. maybe i'll build this one and give it to my mom and make my own Intel build..

you're gay just for showing me this just to let you know..

i think i've been shielded because i've seen quite a few people run the AMD route and spend tons less than the Intel route..

Vecte said:

Yea, I was a little freaked out at first with mine, especially with my luck the past 6 months! The only other complaint I have with the board is the diagnostic LED display. Once everything gets running, it reads temperature, however, it seems to read the incorrect temp. In the BIOS, in E-LEET, in CoreTemp, in RealTemp, and in Everest, the temp is read as if the Tj.max is 99. The diagnostic LED display reads the temp as if the Tj.max is 95...

Click to expand...

Yeah on-board temp diodes aren't known for their accuracy. :laugh: I use external temp displays as well (the one on my box is a touch screen + fan controller and I think was only 50 bucks - you cant beat that man).

The external temp sensors unless you place them in an interference position only really read ambient and cooler surface temperatures though. You learn dangerous surface temperatures based off of your internals temps though.

Left to right -> CPU Surface Temp, NorthBridge Waterblock Surface Temp, Radiator Hot Air Out Temp, & current Ambient Temp (damn pretty cold in the AM lol)

Video of screen operation: http://www.hvmotorsports.com/pubdlmisc/computer/fancontrol.MOV

On high (1500 RPMs for these fans) I can not hear these fans - they are dead silent (pretty good for 7 fans) so the RPM control is useless to me. Aside from very faint hard drive noise now and then this computer is as quiet on as it is off.

However for someone like you that uses the higher push fans that can get loud I think the 50 bucks on this thing would be money well spent.

The controller actively watches temperatures and will ramp up fan speed by itself to bring them back down when needed.

You could run lower (quieter) fan speeds and not worry about adjusting them.


(dont laugh at my million dollar computer desk - this is used as a work room too).

DeathShadow said:

Yeah on-board temp diodes aren't known for their accuracy. :laugh: I use external temp displays as well (the one on my box is a touch screen + fan controller and I think was only 50 bucks - you cant beat that man).

The external temp sensors unless you place them in an interference position only really read ambient and cooler surface temperatures though. You learn dangerous surface temperatures based off of your internals temps though.

Left to right -> CPU Surface Temp, NorthBridge Waterblock Surface Temp, Radiator Hot Air Out Temp, & current Ambient Temp (damn pretty cold in the AM lol)

Video of screen operation: http://www.hvmotorsports.com/pubdlmisc/computer/fancontrol.MOV

On high (1500 RPMs for these fans) I can not hear these fans - they are dead silent (pretty good for 7 fans) so the RPM control is useless to me. Aside from very faint hard drive noise now and then this computer is as quiet on as it is off.

However for someone like you that uses the higher push fans that can get loud I think the 50 bucks on this thing would be money well spent.

The controller actively watches temperatures and will ramp up fan speed by itself to bring them back down when needed.

You could run lower (quieter) fan speeds and not worry about adjusting them.


(dont laugh at my million dollar computer desk - this is used as a work room too).

Click to expand...

Very sexy temp display you have there. I may look into it. Also, what reservoir and pump are you using?

I also have a pro workstation setup!

CROSSBOW FTW!!! :laugh:

What speakers are those?

Im using a simple 2.1 Klipsch Promedia set (cant be seen in the pic) - I swear to god its the best PC audio you can buy for under $200.00

For closed listening I use my over ear cans on the UPS.

That woofer looks huge!

I use my laptop sometimes more then my desktop too :laugh:, glad to see someone else does.

Did you have the cooler master case before?

I use the Swiftech 655 pump with a EK mod top, EK250 Res

here is the top: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7...Rev_2_-_Laing_D5_and_Swiftech_MCP-650655.html

You hit over your 4.1 mark yet?

DeathShadow said:

CROSSBOW FTW!!! :laugh:

What speakers are those?

Im using a simple 2.1 Klipsch Promedia set (cant be seen in the pic) - I swear to god its the best PC audio you can buy for under $200.00

For closed listening I use my over ear cans on the UPS.

That woofer looks huge!

I use my laptop sometimes more then my desktop too :laugh:, glad to see someone else does.

Did you have the cooler master case before?

I use the Swiftech 655 pump with a EK mod top, EK250 Res

here is the top: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7...Rev_2_-_Laing_D5_and_Swiftech_MCP-650655.html

You hit over your 4.1 mark yet?

Click to expand...

Speakers are Logitech Z2300 2.1. The set runs about $180-220 depending on where you get it. I got really lucky about 4 years ago, when CompUsa here was going out of business. They had it marked down to $110, I snagged it up, and haven't looked back. I gotta say, they are the best damn speakers I have heard, not to mention the sub can really slam if I turn the bass up.

I picked up the Cooler Master last week. It's a HAF 932. Really well designed case.

I need to look into the EK top. Will it work with any 655?

As for the 4.1 mark, I haven't tried yet, I've been to busy messing around with RAID. I changed my array so many different times last night, I think I reformatted three different times, lol.

Vecte said:

Speakers are Logitech Z2300 2.1. The set runs about $180-220 depending on where you get it. I got really lucky about 4 years ago, when CompUsa here was going out of business. They had it marked down to $110, I snagged it up, and haven't looked back. I gotta say, they are the best damn speakers I have heard, not to mention the sub can really slam if I turn the bass up.

I picked up the Cooler Master last week. It's a HAF 932. Really well designed case.

I need to look into the EK top. Will it work with any 655?

As for the 4.1 mark, I haven't tried yet, I've been to busy messing around with RAID. I changed my array so many different times last night, I think I reformatted three different times, lol.

Click to expand...

As far as I know it will work with any D5 (650/655) based pump. I mainly bought the top because it allows you to install any fitting (which is a big plus if you have a hard on for 45 degree swivel fittings like me). It allowed me to place the pump on the bottom of the case directly under the reservoir.







However there was a third party individual who flow tested a bunch of different tops made for this pump - the EK topped pump did flow considerably more then the stock pump.



I am a huge audio fag lol; the next time you are in best buy if they have it set up correctly - take a listen to the Klipsch 2.1 setup (bestbuy bought an exclusive on them - they used to be sold all over).

If you are an audio fag like me, you will enjoy them. I have never heard such retarded clean bass/mids/highs with the volume they present. They rival good home audio setups rather then PC speakers.

I also use them as an amp for my cans - my headphones require an amp and they just happened to have an amplified headphone jack on the one satellite.

Also if you own a set of cans, download the SRS Audio Sandbox software - im not too fond of their speaker environments but their headphone environmeant makes them sound crazy.

A REALLY good PC speaker audio enhancer is DFX - http://www.fxsound.com/

SRS for your cans, DFX for your speakers - awesome improvement.

So, I have been looking around, and it looks like I'm going to be spending a few dollars at Sidewinder tomorrow, when I get paid. Here are a few things on my list:

6 feet of this to replace my old crummy hoses I'm using now: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ty1id3odlatu.html

4 pack of these to shorten up my overall hose length used.: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/fero45g14th1.html

4 of these to replace the crappy plastic ones in my res and rad: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big1sishfifo.html

1 of these, to try it out: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swapxtcpuwa.html

I'm getting the XT block to try it out. A lot of people are showing temps better than the Heatkiller. I'm mainly getting it though for the mounting system. I got burned with the Heatkiller because it was for 775. The 1366 conversion kits are pretty much impossible to get, plus they don't even have an 1156 kit. I either had to buy a new block, or get a motherboard compatible. I went with the motherboard option, but kind of regret not researching the XT first. That puppy comes with kits for 775, 1156, and 1366, so I will be set for a good long time. Not to mention, if I add this block to the loop, all of my water parts will be Swiftech: Pump, Rad, Res, and Block. Lol, that doesn't really matter, just funny I think.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8...rb_Reservoir_Port_Fitting_14_BSPP-12_RPF.html

New stable overclock:


Maybe it's just me, but this chip seems to run bloody hot. I know those max temps are just the highest spikes from IBT, but still, they just seem high. Vcore for this clock is 1.38, VTT is 1.35, and my ambient was 68F, maybe a degree or two higher in my room.

Yeah dude thats hot as **** at 4.2 GHz!!! the 920 I7s run high 50s to low 60s (58, 59, 60, 61, 62) max at that speed during stress testing.

rofl those are the identical hoses, 45 degree fittings, and barb fittings I use - excellent choice.

bahhh heatkiller tell the end you bastard guy.

I would use 7/16" ID Hose with 1/2" barbs instead of 1/2" ID hose with 1/2" barbs dude - there is no flow reduction and as you can see in my pics the hoses are really on there (they dont need to be clamped down).

Its a VERY tight fit (but not too tight to where its a bitch to get them on) - guaranteed not to leak this way.

Just spit on the barb a little before you shove it in (seriously lol).

I found that this hose cuts best on a flat surface with a razor blade (better then with tubing cutters). Just hold the blade straight and press down hard - perfect straight cut.

Are you getting the pump top?

DeathShadow said:

Yeah dude thats hot as **** at 4.2 GHz!!! the 920 I7s run high 50s to low 60s (58, 59, 60, 61, 62) max at that speed during stress testing.

rofl those are the identical hoses, 45 degree fittings, and barb fittings I use - excellent choice.

bahhh heatkiller tell the end you bastard guy.

I would use 7/16" ID Hose with 1/2" barbs instead of 1/2" ID hose with 1/2" barbs dude - there is no flow reduction and as you can see in my pics the hoses are really on there (they dont need to be clamped down).

Its a VERY tight fit (but not too tight to where its a bitch to get them on) - guaranteed not to leak this way.

Just spit on the barb a little before you shove it in (seriously lol).

I found that this hose cuts best on a flat surface with a razor blade (better then with tubing cutters). Just hold the blade straight and press down hard - perfect straight cut.

Are you getting the pump top?

Click to expand...

Are those 920 temps on Prime95 Blend? I think one of the reasons is my thermal paste. I'm fairly certain I put to much on, not to mention I noobed out and used my bare finger to spread it(I knew I shouldnt have done it at the time, but I was in a hurry.).

Great minds think alike! I'll let you see the XT results, then we can decide. I agree though, HK is pretty jawesome.

Not sure about the hoses. I have a hard enough time with 1/2" ID on 1/2" barbs, lol.

I've been using hose cutters myself, but I'll try the blade method with the Tygon.

Not getting the pump top. With my part placement, I don't really need it.

Vecte said:

Are those 920 temps on Prime95 Blend? I think one of the reasons is my thermal paste. I'm fairly certain I put to much on, not to mention I noobed out and used my bare finger to spread it(I knew I shouldnt have done it at the time, but I was in a hurry.).

Great minds think alike! I'll let you see the XT results, then we can decide. I agree though, HK is pretty jawesome.

Not sure about the hoses. I have a hard enough time with 1/2" ID on 1/2" barbs, lol.

I've been using hose cutters myself, but I'll try the blade method with the Tygon.

Not getting the pump top. With my part placement, I don't really need it.

Click to expand...

7/16" man im telling you it really isn't too bad and is way more leak proof, spit on it a little bit and she goes right in with a little push and really no effort. :laugh: It grabs the barb tight and the ID transition doesn't change.

Yeah that could do it lol, I usually spread thermal paste with an old credit card or a cut out square of packaging plastic (lets me put it on nice and thin/even). I hate getting that crap on my fingers, its just as bad as antiseize. You ever notice that thermal paste and antiseize always manage to get on you and everything else no matter what?

The Tygon R3603 hose is very flexible and soft (which is good), it cuts like butter with a decent brand new razor blade.

My peak temps really don't vary with either application.

I scooped those 45 swivel fittings right up when I first saw them - 18 bucks for 4 swivel 45s is a BANGING deal.

I have a hard on for those fittings - you can point your hose anywhere and use any barb you want. Its also sweet because you can remove the barb with out removing the hose.

That feser coolant tastes like shit though - it almost tastes like that bitter sour apple shit you spray on your stuff so your dog doesn't chew on it.

:-D