Torspd: NEVR

off-road taco06 · Sep 27, 2010

WOW dude, i actually did not realize you had this baby lowered already and pretty much complete! :biggrin:EXCELLENT work Torspd! :top: mad props bro!!!! Keep up the excellent fab work!

As for the above ^^^ How is there a "huuuge vacuum leak" in that PCV setup he has? You gotta remember his turbo is rear mounted.

rexrunner · Sep 27, 2010

just because you have a turbo, does not mean you cant have a vacuum leak, infact odds are against that

the pcv system goes like this

drivers side valve cover rear- pcv one way valve, vacuum only that feeds to the nipple on the intake manifold. what this does is, under vacuum situations, the engine actually draws out the stale air in the heads and the vacuum also helps with piston ring seal.

on the passenger side front on the valve cover, there is another 5/8" nipple that feeds into the stock inatke post maf.

this allows for the drivers side vacuum line to pull out the (stale ) air and the other side introduces fresh air

the problem with the above setup is...

the vacuum side is still hooked up properly, so under a vacuum the air being introduced into the passenger side head is unmetered air. The computer will not compensate for that air, there for causing weird lean/rich issues in the possible future.

understand my idea? :top:

Super Werty · Sep 27, 2010

So couldnt he have just tuned that issue away? Im sure he is running his own very custom tune right now.

rexrunner · Sep 27, 2010

not really, the unmetered air would be way to inconsistent i would imagine. not my truck so i dont know for sure, just stating the problem i saw in my truck also before i fixed it.

Yallrun · Sep 27, 2010

OMG Mark nice work bro, Those street tires don't stand a chance! :laugh: :top:

PiNkY · Sep 27, 2010

man i bet this thing would be sick with 4 slicks!! You better buy a set just to kill at the strip!

blackx-runner · Sep 27, 2010

6K 4x4 launch on slicks.... DAMN do it!!! :biggrin:

Torspd · Sep 28, 2010

rexrunner said:
not really, the unmetered air would be way to inconsistent i would imagine. not my truck so i dont know for sure, just stating the problem i saw in my truck also before i fixed it.

It has since been corrected. Goes from the catch can to the intake tube right behind the filter, before the turbo. Plugged the nipple on the intake manifold.

Also, on the way home today found a new problem. Started studdering after a quick ~15 psi pass. Turned off the truck becase the check engine light was blinking. Turned it back on, and coolant was coming out of the exhaust. Pulled the plugs, and the center cylinder on each side was wet. Time for new head gaskets. Hopefully Cometic has them in their database. :argh:

SX TOY · Sep 28, 2010

damn and our heads are just OH so easy to pull to.....not
sucks to hear man.

blackx-runner · Sep 28, 2010

yeah, Gadget was saying this weekend that head gasket failure was pretty common when you start pushing some serious boost through these motors.
Close the deck and push more boost. :biggrin:

darthyota · Sep 28, 2010

how would you close the deck

Gadget · Sep 28, 2010

There are a couple of ways to close the block.

One is to weld accross and fill the gap in a few places to stabilize the top of the cylinders and then deck it.

Next is to mill out a small area around the tops of the cylinders and block cavity to make the opening a very specific size then press in a premade block guard that stabilizes the tops of the cylinders.

http://www.darton-international.com/sb_assy.htm

Lastly completely remove the existing cylinders by cutting them out and pressing in new cylinders with their own gap bridging block guard. I have a block at Darton getting sleeved now. Torspeed gave me one of his busted blocks and I had it shipped out to them. The cut it into a lot of slices and they digitized those slices and designed new cylinders. None of their existing cylinders would work so they have to make all new ones for the 1GR. Once it gets finished it is going to APR who is going to assemble the rest of the engine with my forged pistons, rods and ported heads.

If anyone is looking to have this done the 1GR sleeve kits should be ready soon.

G

darthyota · Sep 28, 2010

what kinda power will it hold?

rexrunner · Sep 28, 2010

what if you got a new sleeve from a 5.0 mustang persay. with a smaller bore but similar cylinder height. hone out the existing cylinder walls and have them custom bored to a specific diameter to remove the existing cylinder walls completley. then press in these new sleeve that are thicker steel and machined properly. you might be (de-boring) the engine and loose cubic inches, but i would imagine with thicker cylinder walls if would be plenty strong. possibly an idea to keep an open deck to ensure proper cooling? say from a 4.0 to a strong 3.8

Gadget · Sep 28, 2010

I am going to let TorSpd find that out. He is getting pretty good at it...

What I do know is that TRD sponsored a well know drag racing team. They used to supply them with built 5VZ engines that were twin turboed and were pushing 1600 HP. The switched them over the built 1GR engines and the blocks could not hold the power and would distort badly over 1200 even with concrete in them. They dropped the TRD sponsorship and went with their own built 2JZ engines. URD picked up their surplus 5VZ rotating assemblies. One set went into Brian's twin turbo 4Runner and one supposed to go into my turbo 5VZ, but Brian sold it with the rest of them.

I am thinking that Torspd might be ready for a sleeved 1GR block now.

Oh, this just in....

I have been working with a guy in Australia that is running a turbo 1GR in his Hilux and tuned with a Haltech. He blew it completely up at 15PSI on the dyno. The rods failed. He gave me the KW value that is failed and we converted it while on the phone and it was somewhere around 480-500 RWHP. I sent him to Darton for a sleeved block that he is going to build.

G

rexrunner · Sep 28, 2010

he is claiming that 15 psi only made 500 max on his turbo engine? same 1gr?

Rat Rod · Sep 28, 2010

the win level of this thread is expanding faster than the universe

rexrunner · Sep 28, 2010

hey did u have all the arp gadgets? or stock bolts?

5H4D0WD347H · Sep 29, 2010

I made over 500 ft-lbs of TQ on nitrous easily... still runs great

Guess i got lucky? :-D

Your spending some bucks on this 1GR huh gadget? Will be cool to see what it runs when your all done.

Torspd · Sep 29, 2010

I have ARP studs. When I built the last motor, I looked into getting head gaskets. As well as this motor. Cometic didn't make any at the time. They do now, and just ordered a set.$99 each. Almost the exact same price as the OEM ones. They just started making them at the first of the year, i was told.
Good thing was when the coolant started coming out of the exhaust, it only did for a very brief time. Engine temp only got to 204* before I shut it down. So it didn't overheating, persay. Will be pulling the motor this week and if all goes well, have it back in by the weekend. That is a big if, but I have my fingers crossed.

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