Voltmeter install help
- Thread starter Knine00
- Start date
I would personally tap all three wires you need at the radio harness.
The radio harness is already fused and 2 to 3 small accessories won't pop the 20A fuse usually used for the stock radios.
Dimmer at radio harness shows 12 volts when the parking lights are on.
Accessory/power wire at radio harness comes on (12 volts) with the key in the acc/on position.
Just tap the radio harness ground.
The radio harness is already fused and 2 to 3 small accessories won't pop the 20A fuse usually used for the stock radios.
Dimmer at radio harness shows 12 volts when the parking lights are on.
Accessory/power wire at radio harness comes on (12 volts) with the key in the acc/on position.
Just tap the radio harness ground.
justin13703
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It probably won't be an issue since its just a voltmeter and I'm assuming your radio is stock, but I've seen gauges being hooked to the radio wiring introduce some electrical noise. Is the ignition wire you found the one from the ignition switch? If so I would use that one because it's heavier gauge wiring and won't give you electrical noise. (not likely but still possible)
Also take into account when you want the gauge to be on. If you only want it on while the truck is running, use an ignition line. If you want it on when you're listening to the radio, use an accessory line.
Also take into account when you want the gauge to be on. If you only want it on while the truck is running, use an ignition line. If you want it on when you're listening to the radio, use an accessory line.
Electrical noise happens all the time regardless of vehicle or system, its called EMI.
Whether you see/hear it or not depends on the equipment receiving it and/or amplifying it or how the equipment was installed. My voltmeter does not introduce any noise into my current mobile system.
In my xrunner I found the two points that introduce the most noise into patch cables and I use double twisted pair with thick insulation. Nothing can be done about this except to go around it or pull the source out.
As for the voltmeter only being on with the radio using its accessory line that won't be the case. The accessory line at the radio harness will have power with the key in the acc/on position regardless if the radio is on or not. That is why it is called an accessory line.
itsdesignateddave
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I put mine one in my truck as well. I had a battery go bad on me more than once and it's nice to have a heads up. I also had an extra "hole" to fill in my pillar pod so I was cheap and just jumped hooked onto the wires that ran to the boost gauge. Call me lazy but it works 
rich017
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I put mine one in my truck as well. I had a battery go bad on me more than once and it's nice to have a heads up. I also had an extra "hole" to fill in my pillar pod so I was cheap and just jumped hooked onto the wires that ran to the boost gauge. Call me lazy but it works
I just don't see how a voltmeter would benefit unless there are some serious mods. All it's doing is reading the output of the alternator and not the battery. With my X I just used my radar. In the Lightning I have a voltmeter in my pillar pod but that is solely for the purpose of me catching a lean condition under WOT before it happens.
redarkx
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jboy671 said:
You effectively created an induction choke. Your electrical noise is caused by, usually, some sort of AC current getting on your DC lines. By twisting the wire you made an inductor, which resists current change, and eliminated it. You can buy magnetic chokes for larger induction currents, but those are usually only needed if you have a lot of high powered communications equipment in the vehicle. OP should not have to worry about "noise" since the only current draw on a voltmeter will be the back lights and very minimal.
