Torspd: NEVR
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Nashman
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All this talk about 1GR's made me have to post this. :eviltongue:
Ewww I am not a fan of these chambers to much sharp shit and shrouding for a turbo or boost setup
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What I was certain was a head gasket leak, turned out to be because of this. In better detail tham I elluded to in your build thread Iniazy. Turns out that valve in the new Snap-Op compression tester, had gone bad. The spring on it had blown out, so it wouldn't hold pressure. Figured that out while working on another person's vehicle. So retested my suspect cylinder, with a new valve installed. Low and behold, 175 psi compression. Here is the bad valve, with the exposed spring.
All cylinders testing good, there had to be a leak somewhere else. Sure enough, when pressurized, the radiator had a steady small sized stream coming out of the bottom of it. So it has a crack in it somewhere near the top.
Here is the video of what I found with the radiator.
https://youtu.be/brZqeFTt2_o
All cylinders testing good, there had to be a leak somewhere else. Sure enough, when pressurized, the radiator had a steady small sized stream coming out of the bottom of it. So it has a crack in it somewhere near the top.
Here is the video of what I found with the radiator.
https://youtu.be/brZqeFTt2_o
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Finished up assembling and adjusting the valve lash of the drive side head last night. Took my time due to a busy week.
The dirty valves are from when this head was attached to the original block which hydro-locked. It has been in hibernation waiting.
Pulling springs and retainers from this head.
All of the heads' used to scavenge bucket shims to properly lash the valves on both heads.
All finished.
The dirty valves are from when this head was attached to the original block which hydro-locked. It has been in hibernation waiting.
Pulling springs and retainers from this head.
All of the heads' used to scavenge bucket shims to properly lash the valves on both heads.
All finished.
chatt x
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You have an idea what cracked the radiator? Reason I ask is I have had some "experience" with issues on a Ron Davis radiator. Went thru 3 custom radiators until the problem was somewhat identified. Not Ron Davis' fault. Imo, a very well built rad. RD tech support was super helpful. Tried a slew of tests to find out what was eating them up. Checked for electrolysis constantly, grounded the rad, and had the shop who built the motor check for head gasket leaks on several different occasions via exhaust gas leaks coming from the rad. They kept saying the head gaskets were good. Got a second opinion and low and behold, head gasket leak was causing either electrolysis or some other form of radiator destroying symptom. Changed the head gaskets and the problem disappeared.
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Interesting. Very. No, I am not certain what caused the cracks. Well...I know that I did have a bad head gasket before. As well as a bad ring land. Replaced those, but the damage was probably already done. Then just kept getting worse. Now that you bring that up, it is highly likely, that was the root of the damage.
Did you send yours back to Ron Davis to have them fix the radiators?
Did you send yours back to Ron Davis to have them fix the radiators?
chatt x
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Sent the first one back for failure analysis to see if it was workmanship or materials and also to see if it was repairable if not warranted. It was determined that RD was not at fault and the radiator was fubar. Hopefully your luck will be better.
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Goldylocks back in my possession.
Here, if you look closely, you'll see that the #4 main cap was machined to allow clearance for the ARP nuts and washers. To allow the oil pan to fit down. Without the machining of the top of the cap, and the stop of the studs, the oil pan would not be able to mount flush with the block.
Two new freeze plugs were machined while we were there, for the front and the rear.
The old paint which DoubllD had done. Getting a new coat of paint soon.
Here, if you look closely, you'll see that the #4 main cap was machined to allow clearance for the ARP nuts and washers. To allow the oil pan to fit down. Without the machining of the top of the cap, and the stop of the studs, the oil pan would not be able to mount flush with the block.
Two new freeze plugs were machined while we were there, for the front and the rear.
The old paint which DoubllD had done. Getting a new coat of paint soon.
blackx-runner
"White Flash"
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1gr hoarder....
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After a few days of block prep, I finally pulled out the timing cover which arrived with Goldylocks. To start prepping it for installation by removing any old gasket material, and swapping out the oil pump for a new one.
Since it had lost oil pressure on the dyno, and spun some bearings, in its past life, I planned on swapping out the oil pump to be on the safe side.
Come to find out it wouldn't be necessary.
Didn't like the purple nurple glitter color anyway. Without work, it is basically trash. On to plan B. Pulled out the timing cover from the original block that came with the truck. Another Ace up my sleeve.
Oh. The block is looking pretty dang good, and I must say. That new color just screams power.
Using this
To do this
From this
Since it had lost oil pressure on the dyno, and spun some bearings, in its past life, I planned on swapping out the oil pump to be on the safe side.
Come to find out it wouldn't be necessary.
Didn't like the purple nurple glitter color anyway. Without work, it is basically trash. On to plan B. Pulled out the timing cover from the original block that came with the truck. Another Ace up my sleeve.
Oh. The block is looking pretty dang good, and I must say. That new color just screams power.
Using this
To do this
From this
