Redlantern
Member
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2013
- Messages
- 526
- Reaction score
- 6
Wooohooo. Excited to see Goldilocks runnin bro!
Torspd: NEVR
- Thread starter Torspd
- Start date
shane881510
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2010
- Messages
- 878
- Reaction score
- 39
Nice looking block. When are gonna get ur stroker engine back.
- Joined
- May 25, 2008
- Messages
- 14,814
- Reaction score
- 54
Just the man that I have a question for. On the passenger side head, where the VVTI actuating solenoid goes, the cut stud had to be installed there. To allow the solenoid to fit.
Clearly there is interference with the non cut stud, as it doesn't go in as far as the other studs. Do you have any knowledge on why it won't thread in to the same depth as the others?
Other than that, the heads are both torqued down. Going to re-torque them when I get home. Then carry on with the assembly. :top:
Woohoo, finally some progress!
Man what a bummer! Damn compression tester!
So I'm glad things are finally moving on.
For some reason XRU site doesn't open from my home Internet, so I don't check here often enough because I can only check it from work.
What I was certain was a head gasket leak, turned out to be because of this. In better detail tham I elluded to in your build thread Iniazy. Turns out that valve in the new Snap-Op compression tester, had gone bad. The spring on it had blown out, so it wouldn't hold pressure. Figured that out while working on another person's vehicle. So retested my suspect cylinder, with a new valve installed. Low and behold, 175 psi compression. Here is the bad valve, with the exposed spring.
All cylinders testing good, there had to be a leak somewhere else. Sure enough, when pressurized, the radiator had a steady small sized stream coming out of the bottom of it. So it has a crack in it somewhere near the top.
Here is the video of what I found with the radiator.
https://youtu.be/brZqeFTt2_o
Man what a bummer! Damn compression tester!
So I'm glad things are finally moving on.
For some reason XRU site doesn't open from my home Internet, so I don't check here often enough because I can only check it from work.
shane881510
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2010
- Messages
- 878
- Reaction score
- 39
That's Great news. Now what u gonna do with it.
- Joined
- May 25, 2008
- Messages
- 14,814
- Reaction score
- 54
Photo bomb.
The Ceramic Ball Bearing from Micro Blue Bearings, for the pilot bearing, was starting to be notchy. I had a spare Peer brand bearing (made in China) in the shelf. Went to install it, and as soon as it was pressed in, it was worse than the previous. Had to run to the store to pick up a new bearing. Bought 5 Koyo bearings. Perfect. Kept on with the install.
Re-adjusted the TOB. With the new Mitutoyo digital caliper. Works flawlessly now. Apparently the older calipers were just that.
Swapped valve covers because these had the properly sized pcv AN fittings, and I plan to refinish the other ones.
Then it was start-up time.
Drove the last two days to work, after a few test drives. All on stock injectors and stock ecu.
AFR's are incredibly stable.
The Ceramic Ball Bearing from Micro Blue Bearings, for the pilot bearing, was starting to be notchy. I had a spare Peer brand bearing (made in China) in the shelf. Went to install it, and as soon as it was pressed in, it was worse than the previous. Had to run to the store to pick up a new bearing. Bought 5 Koyo bearings. Perfect. Kept on with the install.
Re-adjusted the TOB. With the new Mitutoyo digital caliper. Works flawlessly now. Apparently the older calipers were just that.
Swapped valve covers because these had the properly sized pcv AN fittings, and I plan to refinish the other ones.
Then it was start-up time.
Drove the last two days to work, after a few test drives. All on stock injectors and stock ecu.
AFR's are incredibly stable.
- Joined
- May 25, 2008
- Messages
- 14,814
- Reaction score
- 54
Did a short cruising and light acceleration video, with the engine in N/A trim.
https://youtu.be/wB7P3hRUqxQ
Put ~750 miles on the engine before installing the turbo, this past weekend.
Now it is on, and the ProEFI is running it. Needs a freshener on the tune, but runs very well regardless!
https://youtu.be/wB7P3hRUqxQ
Put ~750 miles on the engine before installing the turbo, this past weekend.
Now it is on, and the ProEFI is running it. Needs a freshener on the tune, but runs very well regardless!
- Joined
- May 25, 2008
- Messages
- 14,814
- Reaction score
- 54
Swapped out the stock injectos for the ID1300's, ProEFI, and installed the Motorad 160* thermostat last night.
Definitely needs a comb through the tune in the cruising loads.
The good points are that it runs GREAT in boost, and now it didn't get past 193* during three back to back pulls. Whereas yesterday with the URD 170* t-stat, cruising on the way home @ 70mph, it was steady at 202. Without boost.
This morning on the way in, coolant was at a steady 175*. The test will be on the way home during the heat of the day, this afternoon.
*Note, that the Ron Davis radiator is currently out of the truck, and I have an automatic transmission radiator in its place.
Here is the Motorad t-stat. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CJ0VOY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
With the URD t-stat adapter, it fit right in place of the URD supplied t-stat.
Definitely needs a comb through the tune in the cruising loads.
The good points are that it runs GREAT in boost, and now it didn't get past 193* during three back to back pulls. Whereas yesterday with the URD 170* t-stat, cruising on the way home @ 70mph, it was steady at 202. Without boost.
This morning on the way in, coolant was at a steady 175*. The test will be on the way home during the heat of the day, this afternoon.
*Note, that the Ron Davis radiator is currently out of the truck, and I have an automatic transmission radiator in its place.
Here is the Motorad t-stat. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CJ0VOY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
With the URD t-stat adapter, it fit right in place of the URD supplied t-stat.
