Autocross alignment?

scareurpasenger · Nov 23, 2012

Anyone have a good starting point for a stock x-runner?

darthyota · Nov 23, 2012

i run max positive camber and max positive caster but still within the factory range of whats still ok. you will get more tire wear when not racing on the inside of the tire in the front with this setup

autobodyX · Nov 23, 2012

I think you mean negitive camber

scareurpasenger · Nov 23, 2012

It is the toe that kills tires not camber. Seems like going outside of spec might be beneficial.

sdxrunner619 · Nov 23, 2012

scareurpasenger said:
It is the toe that kills tires not camber. Seems like going outside of spec might be beneficial.

I ran 1.2*s of negative camber(Max I could get), factory caster settings and normal zeroed out toe. Too much caster can f-up your handling as it cause the outside tire to gain loads of positive camber and cause understeer.

scareurpasenger · Nov 23, 2012

Max camber front and rear with zero toe all the way around? Zero rear toe would be odd.
Caster seems like a good idea but you are right it can creat more negative camber than the car/truck can use and reduce the contact patch to nothing.

sdxrunner619 · Nov 23, 2012

scareurpasenger said:
Max camber front and rear with zero toe all the way around? Zero rear toe would be odd.
Caster seems like a good idea but you are right it can creat more negative camber than the car/truck can use and reduce the contact patch to nothing.

...please, do enlighten me on how would change the camber and toe, on the rear of our trucks? :crinklehair:

scareurpasenger · Nov 23, 2012

Haha, this is my first solid axle vehicle. Damn that will suck, I am so used to tuning via rear toe and camber.

sdxrunner619 · Nov 24, 2012

scareurpasenger said:
Haha, this is my first solid axle vehicle. Damn that will suck, I am so used to tuning via rear toe and camber.

Its all good. Just given yah a hard time.:top:

You can tweak the front toe, but it will GREATLY effect the trucks corning entry, or stability... I had a slight toe out for originally for auto/x and it was dreadful. the truck turned in fine, but would be very twitchy. I stuck with just dead aught for toe, and slight negative camber.

scareurpasenger · Nov 24, 2012

Since the front is adjustable, would it help to put a bigger front sway bar on and max out camber?

autobodyX · Nov 24, 2012

A sway bar is going to jump you out of h-stock, if your going to leave stock class you need to go alll out, as for the alignment negative camber and about a 1/8 toe out is sweet but this alignment is twichy and chases cracks in the road and kills the inside 2" of tire tread.
You can run any size stock tacoma wheel I suggest you get a set of 16' wheels and put some Housier a6 on and go kick some but. I say this because it gets you closer to the ground and it makes the tires a bit cheaper. big A6's on the X- runner wheels are really sweet too. And get a way more agressive brake pad.

scareurpasenger · Nov 24, 2012

I thought the rules indicated one sway bar swap was allowed. That is how it worked in b-stock.

autobodyX · Nov 24, 2012

scareurpasenger said:
I thought the rules indicated one sway bar swap was allowed. That is how it worked in b-stock.

I stand corrected. per SCCA solo2 stock class rules:
13.7 Anti Roll (Sway) Bars

Front anti-roll (sway) bars:
1. Substitution, addition or removal of any front anti-roll bars is permitted.
2. Substitution, addition or removal of anti-roll bars may serve no other purpose than that of an anti-roll bar.
3. The use of any bushing material is permitted.
4. No modification to the body, frame or other components to accommodate anti-roll bar addition or substitution is allowed, except for the drilling of holes for mounting bolts. Non-standard lateral members which connect between the brackets for the bar are not permitted.
Rear anti-roll (sway) bars:
1. May not be removed, replaced, or modified in any way.

Nashman · Feb 20, 2017

I did the evil thing and got sway bars, but now I am in stx and well there goes my pax times lol

stinking truck is hates turn arounds and sharp sweepers

tried 1.5 camber and zero ish toe and well that did not help at all so now i going to mess with positive caster more then camber to fix the mister plow affect so i think i will drop to 1.3 camber and what ever caster i can get and if still have an issue i going to add in some toe out

once our muchine is recalibrated at work

right now is saying my rear axle is kinda tweeked so this is going to be fun getting that sob straight

is big ass hammer time and ratchet straps

SgtBadA · Feb 23, 2017

I'm running 1.0 negative camber since I daily mine most of the time. I haven't messed with toe since it would affect tire wear drastically. From my experience the trucks do pretty well on stock suspension. I don't know about moving caster around I'm to chicken to try that right now

nnywg · Feb 23, 2017

Nashman said:
I did the evil thing and got sway bars, but now I am in stx and well there goes my pax times lol

I've been in ESP for the last two years under a catch-all clause, up against a SSP GT-R and Corvette, so not too sad for you.

Just noticed today I could get down to STX if I had narrower wheels or put something on the OEM wheels. Kindof a trade off between narrower rubber on a heavier wheel to class down or just keep doing my thing in ESP.

SgtBadA · Feb 25, 2017

I run ESP as well because I have no cats on my truck. The group I run in doesn't really have much competition in that class so I take 1st most of the time.

Nashman · Feb 27, 2017

nnywg said:
I've been in ESP for the last two years under a catch-all clause, up against a SSP GT-R and Corvette, so not too sad for you.

Just noticed today I could get down to STX if I had narrower wheels or put something on the OEM wheels. Kindof a trade off between narrower rubber on a heavier wheel to class down or just keep doing my thing in ESP.

you can get around the wheel rule as long as it is the same size and width weight does not matter nore does off set so i have been told.plus i pretty sure you can just smuge it. the stock xr wheel are freaking heavy as fuck and makes no bloody sense since the truck does not even come with a over load's to even justifie a strong wheel

Nashman · Feb 27, 2017

SgtBadA said:
I'm running 1.0 negative camber since I daily mine most of the time. I haven't messed with toe since it would affect tire wear drastically. From my experience the trucks do pretty well on stock suspension. I don't know about moving caster around I'm to chicken to try that right now

In the stock spec range you have alot of room to play before you go in to tire ware zone then there is damager to tire zone max spec on camber is 1.3 to 1.4

postive caster can cause high speed issues fallow ruts in roads if you have some stiff ass side walls but not as bad as if you run heavy camber. toe out can fix this and alows your wheel to recenter it's self faster and lessons the wheel's to fallow ruts

my new setup will be caster foreword as i can get it with in margin of green then 1.3 to 1.4 camber then toed out just before red

i am pretty sure this will be the fix for the trucks issue to tend to plow at slow sweepers and have fast weight transfer and able to stick in the corners and be flick able

ps i have an alignment rack at work so i will be tring alot of setups tell i figure out the sweet spot

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