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Discussion in 'General Off-Topic Discussions' started by skygear, Feb 11, 2020.
Plan is 500+ HP on 93 octane.
Well, if you get the Stage III you don't need to worry about buying a thermostat cuz you'll get one that opens at 160°. Are you pullin' the motor? If so, perfect time to change the clutch / flywheel, TOB, short shifter. Also, when you get the Stage III, you will be getting 2 exhaust cam gears that are paired to your new thermostat and UCON - EMS. You have a long road ahead of'ya. I wish you the best of luck, I loved every minute of it!!!
Appreciate that. I know whats in the kit as far as components. For some reason thought it was 170º
Full disclosure. This is on an automatic. ♂️ - For now.
Hadn't really planned on pulling the engine. Not unless I have to. I'm confident I can do all the teardown I need while its in the truck.
Did you have any experience with the 92? or stuck with the 81? any Piston upgrades, valves, springs, cams, etc?
What kind of numbers were you getting HP & Torque?
Call URD Tech Support. Dial 3. Gadget is the man you want to talk to. But if the 81 is the blower that comes with the kit, Stage 3 with that blower is 440hp. The 92 leaves room for future upgrades but you’ll be pulling the engine to build the bottom end if you go that route....
I guess thats more my question now then. 440hp stage 3 with the 81 - If I go with the 92 for now then build the lower end later, will I be able to use the 92 on it with a "Lesser tune" to the ~440hp range, then do the additional build upgrades in the future?
Would you recommend anything additional on the top end while I'm in there tearing it down?
If you’re really trying to push things I’d look at a full build.
With an automatic transmission, you're already ahead of the game. If you look up the leaderboards for fastest TACOMAS, you'll notice that there ARE many automatic Tacomas on the list. Don't worry about having a manual tranny unless your getting a T-56. Don't downgrade to our 6 speed. But don't just build for Horsepower... you gotta get the power to the ground. The Bilstein shocks in the rear gotta go ( 18 way adjustable QA1's will help you squat )and you may wanna use some traction bars to "hook up". Depends on what you're trying to achieve. Either way, there's tons of support on this forum and URD Tech Support is second to none!
My truck is built up already for more offroad use but I dd it currently. Suspension is icon stage 7 adjustable remote res.
The C38-91 and the C38-92 are the very same supercharger with the only difference is the inlet. The -91 is 3" and the -92 is 3.5" and necks down to 3". The perform the same.
The -91 bolts right up to the URD supercharger kit and if you want the -91 instead of the -81 we can certainly do that. We just install one size pulley larger on it to get you started.
My last dyno on my truck was with the -91 and made 540 RWHP with an 80mm pulley and an aggressive tune. My normal street config is the standard tune with a 75mm pulley. This is with a built engine.
There you go, right from the horse’s mouth.
If u go with urd, get the the -91 it don’t cost any different but save u shit tons later if u wanna go bigger. I run the -92 but bought the kit with the -81 had to pay a lot to upgrade later on. Wish I had the 38r all ready. But to costly.
Another question too. What about this for the exhaust. Exiting in front of the rear tire. I cannot have it go to the rear of the truck. I have that space occupied already. I'll post more pics of the exhaust on my truck for better understanding.
Also, I'll need to work on the intake portion due to my snorkel and no air box.
Did you folks go with the upgraded Radiator too? I want to grab that as well.
That 38R-121 looks really interesting. My plan was to build the bottom end later in the year. Not sure with a 16"x16" with that 3.5" inlet would fit. Plus no-one has pulleys or data for it yet. Wouldn't mind having it IF it was able to be detuned to the ~450hp-525hp range. using pulleys. They when I'm done with the bottom end, different pulley...
Wouldn't I need a different Intercooler also, since we are working with a 3.5" vs a 3"? Or would you just use a reducer to keep everything else the same?
How much more custom routing will there need to be for the intake hooking up to the snorkel? The pic of how I have the exhaust.
Shane. How would you use the 38R-112? Currently no pulleys available, plus the whole kit currently is 3".
1. Would you use a 3.5" to 3" silicone reducer? ---
2. Would you contact a Local Machine shop to make an aluminum/ steel pulley? ---
3. Size difference on the 38r, would it still fit the same mounting bracket? ---
The 38r has pulleys they are made for Honda’s 12 rib I think. The brackets for 38 and 38r are same. And yea just reduce the coupler.
I found a guy in Australia that makes pulleys Quantum Performance. . ~$225. What are ours, 5 rib correct? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rotrex-C38R-10-Rib-Pulley-80mm-/254170453147
Would you use one of the Honda ones, but make sure the belt is in the proper grooves. Then hope the belt doesn't jump the ribs? I'm researching, learning quickly. But I still have questions.
http://www.jaydeequantum.com.au/C38R Honda Pulleys.html?
Like this coupler? https://www.amazon.com/Ticon-Industries-Silicone-Reinforced-131-07689-3401/dp/B0741QYGZ3/
Well, pulled the trigger today. Waiting for the Kit - Mark 3 Stage 3 / 4 with the c38-91
Would have loved to have the c38r-112 ------ Not enough out there for it yet. Pulleys.... Then having to use the reducers? Boy oh boy. I know I'm going to want this after Gadget puts it on his and calls it a stage 5./////
Guess I'll start putting the BrianCrower parts together so she's ready.
Anyone have an Install PDF or something I can start reading over? Doing the head gaskets and timing chain and wanted to see where this will overlap in my process.
Congrats, have fun with the install!
All your PDF's will be on a thumb drive. I bought insulators for the new fuel injectors. I think you can use the old ones, but I chose to buy new ones.