$1,300 Clutch Kit

[Dukexrs]

Anyone have this kit? Never heard of this one before but that price is :ahhhhh:
http://www.racepages.com/products/index.php?N=5560&Nr=OR(AND(make:Toyota,model:Tacoma,year:2005),AND(universal:1))&Ns=msv_rank_30|0&Vi=11782%201725%204294962486&mk=Toyota&md=Tacoma&y=2005&No=0&Npp=10.

And btw i am looking to replace my clutch soon, any suggestions on what to get on an N/A truck?

 

[hiflyer]

URD - get the Stage III - grips huge, but is very drivable as well

 

[SouthernmostXR]

Sounds muy expensivo call Gadget get a URD better product better choice

 

[Gadget]

I will bet you a box of donuts that is a stock OEM replacement clutch from Asian and it is exactly like what came in your truck from the factory.

URD is an Aisan dealer and if that is in fact a stock replacement clutch they have seriously marked it up.

G

 

[Sproulesxrunner]

Hey G,

Just a question for you. Can you drive a stage 4 clutch normally or does it grip too much? What would you recommend for a N/A with a TCAI and enthusiastic driving? Stage 3?

Thanks

 

[Coupe]

I have URD Stage III. You can drive it normal or you can haul ass.

It does both equally well.

 

[Gadget]

The stage 4 is an awesome clutch, but it is hard to drive smoothly. If you are drag racing all the time it is the clutch for you.

For me it was just to much. Very herky jerky on pull outs. If you have someone ride with you it maybe unfomfortable for them and they may think you don't know how to drive a stick.

I wanted something that would hold the power and you can drive it smoothly. So working with the clutch company I specked out a new clutch, the stage 3. Keeping in mind of the no pilot bearing deal I wanted a smooth initial engagement so I went against the industry standard for a dual friction clutch. I put the organic material facing the pressure plate and the ceramic toward the flywheel.

My thinking here was the pressure plate is the first point of contact and wanted the smoothest engagement there and then drive the ceramic into the heavy flywheel for the extra grip. This combo works great and it is a great compromise between the stage 2 and the puck style stage 4. It has become a very popular clutch and we are shipping more of them than anything.

When I put the T56 in I wanted to try something with better grip and I also wanted to try a solid hub. So I had the clutch company make me a one of clutch. This has the segmented ceramic on both sides and I had them put in a solid hub.

My impression of this one is that it drives very much like the stage 3 and I really can't tell the difference between the solid hub and the sprung. I like it!! I had a bunch of these made with a sprung hub and will have some here next week with the solid hub. I am calling this one the stage 3+.

I had one made for another T56 guy with a solid hub and he seems to like it.

I am going to steer folks making a lot of power to the solid hub.

If anyone wants one of these new Stage 3+ setups let me know.

G

 

[Murderface]

Because the stage IV is a puck design it grabs much quicker then a full surfaced clutch like a stock one or stage II,III or III+. the stage IV can't be slipped like a stock one at all, u will need to rev the RPM's up and basically let it out very quick but not so quick that ur dumping the clutch.

I have the CC stage III and it is very close to a stock one but still needs to be let out quickly but u can slip it slightly. If ur NA I would suggest getting a stage II from URD. U will basically be able to drive it like a stock clutch and not have to rev it up high and let it out quickly. A stage IV for u would be overkill but there are some guys running one and are NA. The whole point of a stage III or higher is to hold the power made by a blower or turbo. My stock clutch lasted a week after I installed my bone stock TRD blower, it couldn't handle the power and it started slipping with boost in 5th and 6th gear.

 

[darthyota]

The stage 4 is an awesome clutch, but it is hard to drive smoothly. If you are drag racing all the time it is the clutch for you.

For me it was just to much. Very herky jerky on pull outs. If you have someone ride with you it maybe unfomfortable for them and they may think you don't know how to drive a stick.

I wanted something that would hold the power and you can drive it smoothly. So working with the clutch company I specked out a new clutch, the stage 3. Keeping in mind of the no pilot bearing deal I wanted a smooth initial engagement so I went against the industry standard for a dual friction clutch. I put the organic material facing the pressure plate and the ceramic toward the flywheel.

My thinking here was the pressure plate is the first point of contact and wanted the smoothest engagement there and then drive the ceramic into the heavy flywheel for the extra grip. This combo works great and it is a great compromise between the stage 2 and the puck style stage 4. It has become a very popular clutch and we are shipping more of them than anything.

When I put the T56 in I wanted to try something with better grip and I also wanted to try a solid hub. So I had the clutch company make me a one of clutch. This has the segmented ceramic on both sides and I had them put in a solid hub.

My impression of this one is that it drives very much like the stage 3 and I really can't tell the difference between the solid hub and the sprung. I like it!! I had a bunch of these made with a sprung hub and will have some here next week with the solid hub. I am calling this one the stage 3+.

I had one made for another T56 guy with a solid hub and he seems to like it.

I am going to steer folks making a lot of power to the solid hub.

If anyone wants one of these new Stage 3+ setups let me know.

G

when can we expect to see your highly classified top secret twin disc setup?

 

[Gadget]

Not sure....


G

 

[darthyota]

hmmm cause thats the set up im really interested in

 

[Dukexrs]

My x-runner is stock and is going to remain stock. Witch clutch will be best for me, Stage II or Stage III? BTW its only a $ 5 dollars diffrence between the two. And do these kits come with a throwout bearing?

 

[Gadget]

I would go with the stage 3. It is a great all around clutch.

If you want a throw out bearing you should get this upgraded one:

http://www.urdusa.com/More-Products...IT,-2005+-Tacoma-V6-6-Speed/product_info.html


Gadget

 

[Torspd]

Some one will surely get F'd on that $1300 clutch. Dayum!

 

[motonxruchick184]

:dito::dito: my thoughts exactly..

 

[Dukexrs]

I would go with the stage 3. It is a great all around clutch.

If you want a throw out bearing you should get this upgraded one:

http://www.urdusa.com/More-Products...IT,-2005+-Tacoma-V6-6-Speed/product_info.html


Gadget

Cool you will do.....:top: thanks for the input

 

[x20Runner05]

:ahhhhh:wow that is pricey. I would say the same go with URD.

 

[livinginsa]

I have heard of that compnay. They have been around a long time. It does say OEM. I wouldn't gamble on that. I would either call them to see what one is really getting in that clutch or I would go with URD. Really, I would just go with URD. They are proven, and knowing if there is a problem, G will back one up is pure gold.

I have the stage IV clutch and the Fidenza flywheel. I don't have any problems with it; I like it.

I wish I would have bought that T56 adapter kit that APR sold as a kit. If anyone wants to sell theirs, I will take it. I would even give an X-1 and cash for it. My X-1 is not for sale but I would trade it if I could get a T56 adapter kit.

 

[Murderface]

A twin disc setup doesn't even cost $1300:laugh:

 

[Sproulesxrunner]

So what's the difference between the stage 2 and stage 3? (Simple explanation, I don't know much about clutches) Which clutch could take the most miles? Which flywheel would you recommend with it?

Thanks again