Clutch combo disappointment

[jboy671]

First off I did the install myself...after reading every single thread and tips/tricks/dos/don'ts I can find between xr-underground/tacomaworld/customtacos at least three times.

I have every single tool needed to do the job correctly so there is no issue there.

Now the story...purchased the urd stage2 clutch combo (pplate/light flywheel/throwout bearing/arp bolts).

Initially only needed to replace the throwout bearing but everyone suggested "might as well upgrade the clutch since you have to drop the trans".

Did some research and started a thread here and the consensus was urd stage2 for my goals.

Get the package on a friday and had it installed by saturday night. Everything aligned fine, pplate pressed down in increments using star pattern to ensure even pressure, everything was handled with clean nylon gloves (one set of gloves for flywheel, one for clutch disc, etc.), and flywheel/pplate cleaned with brake cleaner many times over.

Everything back up and bolted correctly with no extra/missing bolts. Clutch pedal adjusted to about 2mm of free play.

Test drive resulted in first gear and reverse gear shudder. No problems getting into any gear, second through sixth have no grinds, chatter in gears 2 through 4 if I happen to be under 1500 rpms (second gear at 15mph for example)

I thought maybe it was the clutch breaking in so drove it lightly for the first 500 miles (stop and go and never got above 2700 rpm).

500 miles of break in and it didn't get any better. Saw a thread where it was suggested to adjust clutch pedal free play. Already at 2mm I got it to 0 and shudder still persists.

My stock flywheel, clutch disc and pplate were still in good condition so yesterday I re-installed it the exact same way I installed the stage2 combo. At first I was going to chalk it up to a botched install on my part but since I re-installed the stock components the same way I installed the stage2 I'm wondering if I really did botch the install. I'm also taking into consideration the fact that my stock components were already working to begin with so re-installing them simply reverted it back to the way it was (no shuddering, no chatter, etc.) and may not be a good indicator of a botched install on the stage2.

Here's what I found:

urd pplate

light steel flywheel

stage2 disc : the wear on the pplate side is similiar to the wear on the flywheel side

How do I check if the pplate and/or clutch disc are warped/bent?

Thanks for looking everyone.

 

[blackx-runner]

There is definitely something not right going on there. I don't know where to direct you other than to see what Gadget says about it.

 

[lvxr]

maybe u aligned the pressure plate wrong? even tho you said you didn't? but looking at the mounting holes on the flywheel it looks like it would be hard to mis-align it.

maybe the pressure plate bolts weren't completely tightened?

 

[jboy671]

maybe u aligned the pressure plate wrong? even tho you said you didn't? but looking at the mounting holes on the flywheel it looks like it would be hard to mis-align it.

maybe the pressure plate bolts weren't completely tightened?

Arp flywheel bolts torqued to 70 foot pounds in three step increments (25, 50, 70) and arp pplate bolts torqued to 18 foot pounds after fully seating pplate to flywheel. Definitely tightened everywhere.

 

[Gadget]

When you say you adjusted the clutch to have 2mm of free play, what exactly are you talking about and how did you measure that? What exactly did you adjust if anything?

When you were stopped and started to raise the clutch pedal, how far up would the clutch pedal come from the floor before the vehicle would start to move?

If you were stopped at a red light and had the truck idling in neutral, could you easily push in the clutch and put the transmission in first gear?

Did you have the "clutch pedal" mod done?

How soon can you get those clutch parts back to URD so we can test them?

G

 

[jboy671]

When you say you adjusted the clutch to have 2mm of free play, what exactly are you talking about and how did you measure that? What exactly did you adjust if anything? 2mm from the time I press the clutch pedal to the time it makes contact with the master cylinder push rod. Measured with a caliper tool the distance from when the clutch pedal came off the contact switch to the time it "stopped"/came in contact with the master cylinder push rod. I adjusted the square nut on the master cylinder push rod.

When you were stopped and started to raise the clutch pedal, how far up would the clutch pedal come from the floor before the vehicle would start to move? Just under halfway off the floor.

If you were stopped at a red light and had the truck idling in neutral, could you easily push in the clutch and put the transmission in first gear? Clutch pedal effort was comparable to stock. No problems getting into any gear from any situation.

Did you have the "clutch pedal" mod done? No clutch pedal mod at all.

How soon can you get those clutch parts back to URD so we can test them? As soon as I can get a shipping quote.

G

Answers in red.

 

[Gadget]

Answers in red.

I think I remember talking to you on the phone a few times.

G

 

[jboy671]

I think I remember talking to you on the phone a few times.

G

I don't think so, not on this issue. I did send an email via the urd website about the shuddering but never received a response. I waited until after the break in period before making another contact attempt.

Purchase was made March 22 if I remember correctly.

 

[FN5.7]

just curious but i see these threads pop up about product malfunction/misuse or whatever it may be, why not pm or call and get things figured out before the thread?

im not trying to sound judgmental or offensive but it seems like every vendor here is more than willing to accept responsibility for their products, so why not wait until everything is fixed and then open a thread about the ordeal?

 

[jboy671]

just curious but i see these threads pop up about product malfunction/misuse or whatever it may be, why not pm or call and get things figured out before the thread?

im not trying to sound judgmental or offensive but it seems like every vendor here is more than willing to accept responsibility for their products, so why not wait until everything is fixed and then open a thread about the ordeal?

I don't think I was bashing the product or the vendor in any way.

I think, personally, threads like this are good. Like I said I did not say anything negative about urd.

I say this is a good thread because people can find it as a reference if they run into the same situation. I did say in one of my previous posts that I had sent an email to urd via their website and got no response. That email was sent over a month ago.

I did not come on here huffing and puffing asking for answers.

I provided pictures of the product and kindly asked for assistance.

Other people may have had a similiar experience and had it taken care of behind the scenes. It's nice to be able to have some kind of log or record of the issue from start to finish instead of always hearing about the end result.

 

[butters607]

It looks as if the clutch wasn't disengaging properly....meaning it was not releasing properly that's a huge amount of heat wear on the fly....

 

[kwigs160966]

I think you installed the clutch disc backwards it doesn't look like it matters but I am certain it does one side of the hub is different than the other.

Just to add. I know it does make a difference on the stock clutch I stall which way it goes on. I could be wrong though

 

[jboy671]

It looks as if the clutch wasn't disengaging properly....meaning it was not releasing properly that's a huge amount of heat wear on the fly....

This could be a possibility. I adjusted the clutch pedal after installation and didn't crack the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder so I didn't bleed the system. The slave was also easy to push in by finger with the clutch pedal released (the pressure test I guess) so that indicated it wasn't keeping pressure on the fork.

I think you installed the clutch disc backwards it doesn't look like it matters but I am certain it does one side of the hub is different than the other.

Just to add. I know it does make a difference on the stock clutch I stall which way it goes on. I could be wrong though

Clutch disc was installed correctly as far as I know. Raised hub side is usually the pplate side and low hub side is usually flywheel. Granted the clutch disc was not labeled which side was which so I just went with the standard installation process.

 

[FN5.7]

Sorry man, theres no tone of voice. just see alot of these and figured a thread after everything is solved serves a better purpose.

im sure what ever the problem is, urd will help you fix it. good luck.