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Engine Job

akakrill

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Gadget when you did the engine work, did you retain the oil sprayers under the pistons?

I got ceramic coated pistons, but they deleted the oil sprayers due to assembly interference with the darton sleeves or piston skirts, I need to have that clarified.

They said the cooling of the pistons would be by the coatings and the options were to have the pistons machined, bend the sprayers, or delete the sprayers. Just wondering how the "delete" will effect the motor.

Thanks
Bill
 

Torspd

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Which crank do you have? Stock or stroker?
 

Nashman

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If you have forged pistons that are coated you will be fine just run good oil and keep the Temps in check. Good thing is less weight on the under side of piston, less windage and your oil pressure will go up
 

Torspd

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Which brand of rods are those? I have CP Carrillo, with the stroker crank. The rods had a clearance issue, with the squirters. My machine shop pulled them and installed block off plates.

I went back through and pulled the block off plates, and bent and molded the squirters to clear. Took a while and was quite tedious. I was able to do so without removing the rods or pistons. Now I am driving it without issue.
 

Gadget

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There has been a few different iterations of the stroker kit. I believe the newest version fits the squirters OK.

I would recommend always getting the complete rotating assembly.
 

XMPLRY808

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I would remove the oil squirters too like was mentioned earlier oil pressure will go up which is better. Forged Pistons don't need squirters it's just shooting more HOT oil. Well that's what we do in our Honda motors :top:
 

Torspd

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That "hot oil" is much cooler, relative to the combustion side of the piston. It helps transfer away heat from the piston. One point of that is to aid in preventing detonation. As well as keeping the wrist pins thoroughly lubricated. If your are planning on doing any long term heavy footed driving, I.E. road racing, then install them. If not, then you could get by with the splash.
 

Torspd

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With my Pauter rods, the squirter fit without issue. They are narrower at the crank end, than the H-beam Carrillo rods.
 

akakrill

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Which brand of rods are those? I have CP Carrillo, with the stroker crank. The rods had a clearance issue, with the squirters. My machine shop pulled them and installed block off plates.

I went back through and pulled the block off plates, and bent and molded the squirters to clear. Took a while and was quite tedious. I was able to do so without removing the rods or pistons. Now I am driving it without issue.

They are Brian Crower rods with ARP625+ bolts on the stock crank. The shop said the rods were grooved and had lube holes, below is from BC website.

H Beam rods feature a deep radial groove pin bushing and oil holes at 5 and 7 o'clock (the beam acts as a trough), bringing critical lubrication to the critical wrist pin area. I Beam rods feature a oil hole at the 12 o'clock position that keep the pin end bore true at high boost. Available in your choice of ARP2000 fasteners (rated to 210,000 psi) or the ultimate faster, ARP's Custom Age 625+ (rated to 280,000 psi).

The shop has completed a full balanced rotating short block assembly, sleeved the block, reconditioned heads, replaced all valves, and torqued heads to set lash. I'll be receiving it assembled and wont be taking it apart for the oil sprayers that were deleted. However if it were critical to have them, I'd ask for the shop to put them back in before final payment.
 

Nashman

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That "hot oil" is much cooler, relative to the combustion side of the piston. It helps transfer away heat from the piston. One point of that is to aid in preventing detonation. As well as keeping the wrist pins thoroughly lubricated. If your are planning on doing any long term heavy footed driving, I.E. road racing, then install them. If not, then you could get by with the splash.
Piston temp is mostly cooled by the Rings that how the heat transfer works the oil control ring lubes the wrist pin from scraping the oil off the off the cylinder walls most of the cooling is from the quench pads on the cylinder head that and egr that is implemented from the vvti. Don't get me wrong they are there for cooling but sometimes they can tossed aside
 

Nashman

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Oh and another good way to add in oil jetting to the piston is drill the rods or slot them
 

VIPDreamin

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The way the rod details read its appears the BC rods are designed with oil lubrication and heat transfer in mind. I think you will be ok, can always call the up and have that convo. Can't wait to see what power you push.
 

Torspd

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The way the rod details read its appears the BC rods are designed with oil lubrication and heat transfer in mind. I think you will be ok, can always call the up and have that convo. Can't wait to see what power you push.

All of this.
 
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