Help me out boys.

[RJDoute]

It's 4 A.M. and I don't feel like going into the story of how it all happened and whatnot, so please just tell me if I need to worry about any damage.

I drove 80 miles on the highway and about 10 miles stop/go city tonight with the passenger long tube completely disconnected from the Y-Pipe. It sounded awful, but there were no odd smells or leaks. Is there any type of damage I may have caused? Anything I need to look for in the morning when I go get some hardware and bolt it back up? This is the second crush gasket I've gone through on this side, it's frying them and the bolts are coming loose and falling off.

What size are those bolts anyway? Should I try to find spring loaded? Someone let me know, I'm completely aggravated. Thanks in advance.

FML

Ryan

 

[SpcWashington]

Shouldnt have damadged anything. Im not sure if it will hold up to that much heat, but you could try threadlocking the ish outa the bolts to make sure they dont back out again.

 

[Yallrun]

I'm not sure about these delicate motors, but I don't think you have to much to worry about as long as you get it patched up pretty soon. You could probably run open headers for a while but I wouldn't recommend it. You will eventually burn up your rings but that takes a while. I'm sure it sounded awful, but any exhaust leak sounds like a$$.

What kind of gaskets are you using (brand)? I never had that problem when I was running the LT's.

 

[Vashx51]

i know i have thread lock that says you need heat and tools to break the hold it's red instead of blue really strong stuff but i don't know if they make one stronger to take engine heat and not break down. . . best place to look i guess is an auto store and see if they have any thread lock cause home depot and lowe's only has blue and that red stuff that i know about

 

[Torspd]

You can find a bolt at ACE hardware or Lowe's/Homedepot. I believe that it is a 12 mm diameter with a 1.5 pitch. That will be a 14 or 15 mm head. Just get some washers and lock washers to go with it.

 

[T0LLPHR33]

dang sorry to hear about this ryan...good luck on the repairs and keep us posted on this...I doubt it caused any damage...but you can never be too careful...

you make me want to check the bolts on my DTLH setup...

 

[5H4D0WD347H]

Listen silly pants, the only thing you have damaged is my sphincter and someones ears running your riced out straight pipes.

You want to use the factory style hardware.

 

[TRD-X]

Listen silly pants, the only thing you have damaged is my sphincter and someones ears running your riced out straight pipes.

You want to use the factory style hardware.

^ :dito: silly pants....:hahaha:

 

[KETCHUP]

shouldn't be any damage brotha. I had the same problem. Hit Gadget up for some crush gaskets. He sells them on his site. Good quality. I thought I had a leak myself, but turns out I don't. Got two gaskets sitting around in case I ever need them. When you get bolts and nuts to fix it, make sure you get locking washers. that is what I had to do. As far as getting the right bolt for sure, just pop one off the other side. I would put lock washers on all four bolts. You can even additionally put locking nuts on too. Hope it works out for u. Keep us posted.

 

[Torspd]

Listen silly pants, the only thing you have damaged is my sphincter and someones ears running your riced out straight pipes.

You want to use the factory style hardware.

Factory bolts don't apply for the DTLT's since they come with thru bolts. Factory headers have studs. The factory nuts are lock nuts that will tear the threads up if you try to remove them. If not break the bolt. Get some grade 10.9 or 12.9 metric bolts and you'll be good.

Next best bet is to swap the flange for v-band flange. No more baskets and only one nut.

 

[5H4D0WD347H]

Factory bolts don't apply for the DTLT's since they come with thru bolts. Factory headers have studs. The factory nuts are lock nuts that will tear the threads up if you try to remove them. If not break the bolt. Get some grade 10.9 or 12.9 metric bolts and you'll be good.

Next best bet is to swap the flange for v-band flange. No more baskets and only one nut.

Ahhhh I didnt read that they were long tubes, mine have been on there for a while.

I havnt busted a gasket on mine yet... Thats the joy of not driving it.

 

[T0LLPHR33]

only one nut.

you said 1 nut...:rofl: I feel bad for you...buahahaha

 

[RJDoute]

I only have one nut because I lost the other one in an injury in the Army, are you guys trying to make fun of me or something?

Thanks for all the advice I'm going to go take a look at it today and see if I can't get it taken care of. This time it's the other header, they're both falling apart and I'm ****ing sick of it. Thanks, Mark for the bolt info. I'll get at you guys if I need more help later.

Doug I love your sphincter and it's face.

 

[Torspd]

Glad to help where I can

 

[RJDoute]

Wrong bolt size, M12 was too big and the flange isn't threaded. I ended up with M10 1.5 and those oblong locking nuts with the crimp. I CRANKED the shit out of it and put another shitty felpro gasket in it. Sounds great, but I doubt it'll last longer than 500 miles. I need to get the good shit from G-man.

 

[Edgeman]

Shouldnt have damadged anything. Im not sure if it will hold up to that much heat, but you could try threadlocking the ish outa the bolts to make sure they dont back out again.

Does anyone make threadlock that will withstand "exhaust" heat? Didn't think any threadlocking compound could stand up to that type of abuse.

 

[Eraser]

steel safety wire. look on youtube for instructions on how to do it. I do it all the time on Rolls Royce AE2100D3's