S7ICKlVlAN
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Just got done applying OC 2.0. OC is a nano tech sealant that permanently adheres to the paint of your vehicle and provides a hydrophobic, hard seal. It works on wheels, exterior plastics, and headlights (avoid hazing). I started off with a wash/dry using Optimum No Rinse car wash/lubricant. LINK
Once the wash/dry was done, I busted out my Makita 9227 with a 6" blue foam pad to apply G Techniq's P1 polish. LINK. P1 is a nano compound that does not break down like organic compounds. It will retain it's abrasive properties even after it dries up. You just give the designated area a light spray of straight water. Before applying a permanent coat like OC 2.0, you want to make sure all previous wax/oils have been removed from the paint to guarantee the best possible bond. I previously used Collinite 845 which is a very hard core sealant that can last upwards of 3-4 months. Typically, you can remove old wax using a 50/50 blend of alc/water or a product like Car Pro Eraser. It's not that easy with Collinite. I buffed the entire car with the P1 polish till all panels were squeaky clean and wax free.
Following the P1, I wiped the entire truck down with Car Pro Eraser. LINK. CPE is a water based cleaner that removes old wax residue, oils, etc from the paint and gives you a surface that is thoroughly prepped and ready for coating. I sprayed it on generously and wiped the entire truck clean with a PakShak microfiber towel, making sure there were no flash streaks anywhere on the painted surfaces. I should note, P1 is water soluble and Eraser easily removes any remant P1 from exterior trim/plastics with relative ease. Don't worry about perma-white marks on your black plastics with this stuff.
With everything cleaned and prepped, I got out my Opti-Coat 2.0 and read through the brief instructions to apply. It comes with an applicator. LINK. In order to maximize the OC 2.0, I placed the sponge applicator in a nitrile glove and wrapped that with a plain blue shop towel. Doing this allows you to apply with the soft sponge, but blocks the applicator from soaking up all your OC 2.0. I'd recommend it.
OC 2.0 goes on very light and just a little applied to the wrapped applicator goes a long way. It will go on hazy with a slightly oily appearance and should (almost immediately) flash to clear. If it does not flash, buff it a little with the wrapped applicator and it should do the trick. OC 2.0 is self leveling, but applying it too heavy can leave "swirl marks" on the finish and as scary as that may sound, it's very easy to avoid. I did one panel at a time with a 5-7 min break in between to confirm everything went on well and flashed clear. Apply the OC 2.0 in a single direction with the first coat and then immediately wipe across the grain of the first coat immediately after initial application to ensure a nice level coat. It should spread well.
Again, this (OC 2.0) can be applied to all exterior plastics. I did all the light housings, door jambs, mirrors, back windows, front valence, grille, fog lights, fender flare gaskets, window frame rubber with it and still had over 1/2 the syringe of OC 2.0 left. I will do my wheels in a few months when the Collinite wears off of them.
All the work to apply the OC 2.0 should yield me a well protected, hydrophobic finish that I'll never have to wax again. Just gloss/detail spray and regular washes. Hope this info helps some of you free up more weekend time. Check out Autogeek.net for even more info on this stuff. I'm a noob compared to some of the guys on that site.
Once the wash/dry was done, I busted out my Makita 9227 with a 6" blue foam pad to apply G Techniq's P1 polish. LINK. P1 is a nano compound that does not break down like organic compounds. It will retain it's abrasive properties even after it dries up. You just give the designated area a light spray of straight water. Before applying a permanent coat like OC 2.0, you want to make sure all previous wax/oils have been removed from the paint to guarantee the best possible bond. I previously used Collinite 845 which is a very hard core sealant that can last upwards of 3-4 months. Typically, you can remove old wax using a 50/50 blend of alc/water or a product like Car Pro Eraser. It's not that easy with Collinite. I buffed the entire car with the P1 polish till all panels were squeaky clean and wax free.
Following the P1, I wiped the entire truck down with Car Pro Eraser. LINK. CPE is a water based cleaner that removes old wax residue, oils, etc from the paint and gives you a surface that is thoroughly prepped and ready for coating. I sprayed it on generously and wiped the entire truck clean with a PakShak microfiber towel, making sure there were no flash streaks anywhere on the painted surfaces. I should note, P1 is water soluble and Eraser easily removes any remant P1 from exterior trim/plastics with relative ease. Don't worry about perma-white marks on your black plastics with this stuff.
With everything cleaned and prepped, I got out my Opti-Coat 2.0 and read through the brief instructions to apply. It comes with an applicator. LINK. In order to maximize the OC 2.0, I placed the sponge applicator in a nitrile glove and wrapped that with a plain blue shop towel. Doing this allows you to apply with the soft sponge, but blocks the applicator from soaking up all your OC 2.0. I'd recommend it.
OC 2.0 goes on very light and just a little applied to the wrapped applicator goes a long way. It will go on hazy with a slightly oily appearance and should (almost immediately) flash to clear. If it does not flash, buff it a little with the wrapped applicator and it should do the trick. OC 2.0 is self leveling, but applying it too heavy can leave "swirl marks" on the finish and as scary as that may sound, it's very easy to avoid. I did one panel at a time with a 5-7 min break in between to confirm everything went on well and flashed clear. Apply the OC 2.0 in a single direction with the first coat and then immediately wipe across the grain of the first coat immediately after initial application to ensure a nice level coat. It should spread well.
Again, this (OC 2.0) can be applied to all exterior plastics. I did all the light housings, door jambs, mirrors, back windows, front valence, grille, fog lights, fender flare gaskets, window frame rubber with it and still had over 1/2 the syringe of OC 2.0 left. I will do my wheels in a few months when the Collinite wears off of them.
All the work to apply the OC 2.0 should yield me a well protected, hydrophobic finish that I'll never have to wax again. Just gloss/detail spray and regular washes. Hope this info helps some of you free up more weekend time. Check out Autogeek.net for even more info on this stuff. I'm a noob compared to some of the guys on that site.
