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Discussion in 'F/I Mods & Tuning' started by iniazy, Aug 18, 2014.
Put a smaller pulley on.
Was that other boost achieved on the stock engine?
Yes on stock engine.
Smaller pulley will over spin the rotor beyond factory specs, and I had the same size pulley previously.
Just might be inlet restrictions. But I'm really happy with the power, feels so good even though it's max boost is not what I hoped for.
I'll just live with it. Tired of worrying about it.
Your last explanation sounds right. Move volume = more power. PSI doesn't really mean much. Lots of variables that can change boost.
I want to buy the intake system with filter compartment that comes with the URD mk3 kit. Anyone willing to sell his? I know some people, @shane881510 , who have replaced it with an open pod filter.
Anyone wanting to sell his lemme know.
Still quite small filter, and that snorkel(?) hose might cause a lot of restriction for air flowing too.
I agree, I'm looking to find a way to fit a larger filter. However, it is much larger than the old one, and I was able to make 10.7 PSI from the old one, with the same flexible duct and a smaller supercharger. So can't be the reason.
Have you tried running with just a large cone filter, for testing purposes? To see if any differences were had? Or briefly with no filter?
No I didn't. Not good for the engine, air will be too hot even before compression, will result in bad knock at WOT. I don't want to take the risk. It will be sucking in hot air leaving the radiator, further heated by the headers.
I tried it without the supercharger and was knocking bad, imagine how it would do with a supercharger.
Then maybe you should talk to whoever you're buying those intakes from, to make a larger one.
I'm trying to get my hands on a URD intake. That would be awesome.
A few new updates, no pictures, so get ready for a write-up.
1. I have learned something new. If I suppress low RPM knock by retarding the timing at low RPM, the engine will take a leap in performance while suburban driving. I retarded the timing down to -3 degrees at low RPM, at bout 0 PSI, and now driving the truck feels so good even at hot weather while the A/C is on, almost as good as it felt when the weather was still cold. I remembered an article I read in Gadget's blog about this subject, when he was tuning the TRD supercharged Tacoma 3.4 Liter V6. But the reason I didn't think I needed it is that the article said it is most important in Manual transmissions. Well I now know it is also necessary for Automatics, for best driving performance. Was a great learning experience.
2. I put the truck on the Dyno. The figure produced is nothing to be proud of, so I'm going to ommit putting a number. The reason is I street-tuned my truck, did not dyno-tune it. Although the truck feels really good driving it, I really rarely go WOT, which is why I did not notice a lack of top-end power. The tuner said I'm running way too rich, going below 10.5:1 from 3000 RPM up to 5500. He said I need to lean it out to improve the output. The reason why I had it so rich is to suppress knock. So I decided to lean it out, and then retard the timing if there is knock. I read several opinions on forums that the rule of thumb in timing is you drop 0.8 degrees for each PSI of boost. Since I am reaching 10.3 PSI, I decided to retard the timing 8 degrees at WOT, gradually. I started leaning it, and now I am at 11:1 AFR at WOT, and very little knock. I still hear some knock if I do several consecutive runs, which is probably due to heat soak from the water-air intercooler. But nothing serious. Now it does feel a lot stronger at WOT. I'm wondering if 11:1 is still too rich, as I see many people going up to 11.8:1 and 12:1, but I am keeping it at 11:1 because I know my truck's factory tune goes down to 11:1 at WOT even when with standard equipment. I tested it before installing the supercharger and injectors. So I won't want to be leaner than factory. Even when observing the AFR in my Mazda Miata, at around 7000 RPM the AFR does go down to 11:1, on factory tune without a Supercharger. So I believe this should be a safe AFR.
I still doubt I'm hitting 300 HP with the current power, I don't know how you guys are managing 400+ HP with the smaller supercharger and smaller crank pulley. Even with the current setup I'm only making 10 PSI at sea level. Is it the Dyno in question? Maybe.
3. I now work at another town that is 600 meters above sea level, while I live on a coastal town at sea level. I found that at my work town, I lose 1 PSI of boost. Here I only manage 8.5 PSI, while at home I manage 9.5-10 PSI. That's an interesting observation that explains why I always feel a little weaker at work.
I hope I didn't bore you guys to death without pictures