Shudder during clutch engagement

[uh60rotorhead]

Hey all! I need your expertise!:hmmmm2:

I just had my local shop install a new flywheel, clutch and throwout nearing (all upgrades from URD). I was experiencing what I thought was the beginnings of a failing TB. While at a stop, and engaging the clutch in first gear, there was a slight shudder.

Well, with the new parts installed, the shudder is only more pronounced! I only experience the shudder while accelerating at a slow to regular rate and it stops as soon as the clutch is fully engaged and moving over ~2-4mph. The same shudder happens in 1st and reverse. If I quickly engage the clutch and give it a little more gas I can not feel it. (it is probably still happening but it's so fast I can't tell)

I did a little "light" experimenting due to the fact the clutch is still in the break in period. I set the parking break and only partially engaged the clutch, while in 1st, so that the RPM's dropped just slightly. No shudder. I did the same with it in reverse. No shudder.

It only happens while transitioning from a stop at slow to regular rate. My little experiment tells me it's not the clutch/flywheel/TB. What the heck should I be looking for? Although I do drive like a grandpa sometimes, I don't think I'm letting the RPM's dip to low.

Any tips on where I should be looking would be much appreciated!:idea:

PS: I installed some Short Tubes today too and LOVE the sound. The CATs keep the volume way down and it sounds very "tuned" now. :top:

 

[butters607]

What stage is it?

 

[uh60rotorhead]

Stage 2 clutch

 

[STONER-X]

U-joint in the drive shaft????

i have a buddy that had a low speed low RPM vibration in his 83 chevy (355-t400).... took it for a "test drive" and he was unsure and out of frustration he floored it....

need less to say his wheels started smoking and then u-joint broke sending his drive shaft flying out from the truck...

after we pushed it home... we replaced the broke u-joint and the problem went away...

sorry for the story lol....

 

[Reverend_d]

i have the same thing with a stock clutch. i would like to find out what that shudder is

 

[Xcars_onfireR]

normally when you get that shudder its from irregularities on the fly wheel such as hot spots. but if its all new it could be something else or poor install (not torquing the bolts properly as an example) i would have the shop that installed it take a look at it. and if it was a ujoint the vibration would be there all the time ad get worse under load. hope this helps

 

[Reverend_d]

Xcars that sound like a great explanation and I agree on the U joint vibration at all times.

 

[turbomach1]

my stage 2 did that till it was broke in.

 

[Gadget]

How long ago did you get that clutch and who did the installation for you?

G

 

[Torspd]

A little schooling on the subject:

Disc Characteristics
It all starts with the disc; perhaps the most important part of the clutch system, it provides the friction for transferring engine torque to the drivetrain. The clutch facing or friction material is bonded or riveted to a thin metal plate on the disc. Racing clutches use a flat plate, but for street use, the plate has waves in it. Clutch makers call the wavy plate a marcel, and its purpose is to avoid chatter by smoothing clutch engagement. Street performance clutches always need at least a thin marcel

From here:

http://www.mcleodracing.com/info/?id=5248 :top:

 

[uh60rotorhead]

How long ago did you get that clutch and who did the installation for you?

G

I purchased the clutch on 6/30. Installed by http://www.cooperlakeautomotive.com...-Marietta-Kennesaw-GA-30082-770-431-1936.html

A little schooling on the subject:

Disc Characteristics
It all starts with the disc; perhaps the most important part of the clutch system, it provides the friction for transferring engine torque to the drivetrain. The clutch facing or friction material is bonded or riveted to a thin metal plate on the disc. Racing clutches use a flat plate, but for street use, the plate has waves in it. Clutch makers call the wavy plate a marcel, and its purpose is to avoid chatter by smoothing clutch engagement. Street performance clutches always need at least a thin marcel

From here:

http://www.mcleodracing.com/info/?id=5248 :top:

Thanks for the link, but I don't seem to be able to connect the dots between the quote in your post and my issue. Are you implying that a stage 2 clutch is meant to be a little "harsher"?

 

[justin13703]

Give it some time, it will smooth out. Mine was the same way for a few weeks after I did my clutch/flywheel. Mine was so bad I pulled the tranny a second time to check it, then had gadget personally drive it to see what he thought. It will eventually smooth out almost to where you'd think it's stock again.

 

[uh60rotorhead]

Give it some time, it will smooth out. Mine was the same way for a few weeks after I did my clutch/flywheel. Mine was so bad I pulled the tranny a second time to check it, then had gadget personally drive it to see what he thought. It will eventually smooth out almost to where you'd think it's stock again.

Maybe a trip to MD is in my future.

 

[justin13703]

I'd give it a few weeks, put a couple hundred miles on it, mine was so bad at first that I thought it was gonna break something in the truck but after about a month it was all good.

 

[Gadget]

We put one of those in K2's truck a couple weeks ago and it is very smooth.

There are a couple of common errors on the install that can cause problems. Give me a call so we can discuss.

G

 

[lovemym]

Every time I have every replaced a clutch it has always done that at first, my truck has just now started to smooth out, and I would guess there is 10,000 miles on it now. My Lotus, Mustangs, Corvette, VW's, and my F-150 all did it, some get worn in fast some take longer.