sweetwilliebrownjr
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- May 19, 2009
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Alright, Gadget should be posting up pics to go with this soon.
Take the stalk to the MGW shifter, and cut it right at the tapered spot where it cuts down in size.
Grind a flat spot on the stalk so the hurst shifter arm can butt up against it. Then drill two holes in the mgw stalk to match up to the hurst arm.
Attach them to each other, put them in a vice, and heat the arm with a torch so you can bend it to whatever position suits you. You'll have to reinstall it a few times as well as the front section of the center console to make sure you have clearance. Turning the orange aluminum adapter towards the front is necessary to help with clearance. When the trans is in 2nd gear, you want at least 3/4" clearance between it and the console around it, otherwise when the boot is installed it will contact and make it not engage 2nd well.
Put shifter boot back in, seal any holes, and put everything back together. Test drive and make sure you're comfortable with where it's at.
I did have to leave the e-brake cable loop bracket loose, and the bottom bolt out of the pass side center console support bracket to clear the hurst shifter boot, but they're fairly uneccesary anyhow.
I think that's it. Any questions feel free to ask.
Take the stalk to the MGW shifter, and cut it right at the tapered spot where it cuts down in size.
Grind a flat spot on the stalk so the hurst shifter arm can butt up against it. Then drill two holes in the mgw stalk to match up to the hurst arm.
Attach them to each other, put them in a vice, and heat the arm with a torch so you can bend it to whatever position suits you. You'll have to reinstall it a few times as well as the front section of the center console to make sure you have clearance. Turning the orange aluminum adapter towards the front is necessary to help with clearance. When the trans is in 2nd gear, you want at least 3/4" clearance between it and the console around it, otherwise when the boot is installed it will contact and make it not engage 2nd well.
Put shifter boot back in, seal any holes, and put everything back together. Test drive and make sure you're comfortable with where it's at.
I did have to leave the e-brake cable loop bracket loose, and the bottom bolt out of the pass side center console support bracket to clear the hurst shifter boot, but they're fairly uneccesary anyhow.
I think that's it. Any questions feel free to ask.