URD throw out bearing install/tips pics.

Discussion in 'Stock Performance/Mechanical' started by 1GRracer, Jul 16, 2011.

  1. 1GRracer

    1GRracer "Pete"

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    I'd thought I'd throw this on here in case somebody needs them. This is on Xrunner Drifters truck and we did this the same time while installing a new flywheel/clutch and headers so the trans was dropped we followed this thread http://www.xr-underground.com/vb3/showthread.php?t=20459. It's pretty simple to install. One of the key things about it while looking at the old TOB is that it was packed with clutch dust and had a bit of corrosion. With the URD TOB you have the bearing but also a steel sleeve and grease. You slide it on the input shaft, when I was installing it I found it helpful to turn it in a slight clockwise fashion. Doing it this way I almost had it snug to where it was almost touching the bell housing. This is where the lip (boxed in red) will come in handy. All you need to do is tap it with a chisel, it won't require much force, but slowly tap it in a 360 degree fashion to insure that it sits evenly. DO NOT TAP IT ANYWHERE ELSE OTHER THAN THE LIP. The kit also comes with two screws and a alan key and these go onto the lip as well. Now you can install the TOB but remember to grease it. I didn't drive the truck but Xrunner Drifter reports that its good, no more annoying noise.
     

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  2. Venomous_X

    Venomous_X Active Member

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    A very nice post indeed sir... :top:
     
  3. Murderface

    Murderface New Member

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    Now what I did to Jeffs trans when installing this was get some emery cloth and smooth down all the scrapes, also this helped with installing the sleeve because it would not slide on there and I wasnt about to start beating on it with a hammer and chisel.....just better to do IMO. To this day he has no issues with the TO bearing and also said the clutch engages better and has a better pedal feel.

    So anyone else that's gonna install a TSK45 and can't get the sleeve to slide over the shaft I suggest using the emery cloth to smith down the aluminum shaft so that u don't possibly FVCK up the new sleeve when beating on it with a hammer and chisel.

    Also make sure the fork isn't bent and when Re-installing the fork put some grease on the pivot ball. I'm sure u already know not to over due the grease on the sleeve because u don't want it to end up on the clutch disc
     
  4. JerseyXR07

    JerseyXR07 New Member

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    What kinda tools are needed for this install?
     
  5. x20Runner05

    x20Runner05 New Member

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    Very nice write-up.
     
  6. 1GRracer

    1GRracer "Pete"

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    Your going to need all the tools listed in here to drop the trans. http://www.xr-underground.com/vb3/showthread.php?t=20459 The install of the sleeve is a small hammer and chisel, I do like ChristDenied's method as well, and the allan key that comes with the kit to install the two screws.
     
  7. Murderface

    Murderface New Member

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    Using some emery cloth should be the only way that it should be installed. U gotta remember that probably more then 90% of the people installing the kit don't turn wrenches for a living, with that being said if they have an issue with the sleeve not sliding over the shaft easily and start beating in it with a hammer and chisel that they could end up damaging the sleeve. There's not a whole lotta space to rest a chisel on the sleeve to tap it on with a hammer, in fact the only spot that u can have the chisel resting on the sleeve isn't flat at all and rather concave. This will cause problems with the chisel staying with the sleeve as it is hit.

    When I installed Jeffs sleeve it wouldn't slide over the shaft even with me tapping it with a hammer and chisel, this is when I broke out the emery cloth. After making a few passes all the way around the stock aluminum sleeve I was able to push the steel sleeve on with around 20-30 ft lbs of effort. For those that don't know, emery cloth is sand paper(basically) that is about 1" wide and on a reel with about 50 ft of length to it. So u just rip off a piece that's about 1ft long and wrap it around the aluminum shaft and with both hands moving in opposite directions go back and forth and move around the sleeve till you've smoothed down the whole circumference.
     
  8. joshxrmora

    joshxrmora Member

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    when installing this oversized throwout bearing and throwout bearing sleeve, will you now be forced to buy this kit everytime i replace the throwout bearing? which for me seems to be around every 90k miles? Or..... can you buy the oversized TOB without the added cost of the sleeve.
     
  9. Gadget

    Gadget Well-Known Member

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    Yes, and yes.

    G
     
  10. Torspd

    Torspd Moderator
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    I would believe that if you keeps the part number of the bearing, once you have the kit, you could just search that and buy the bearing, or URD will possibly also sell just the bearing.
     
  11. Torspd

    Torspd Moderator
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    Beat me to it.
     
  12. joshxrmora

    joshxrmora Member

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    So with this larger TOB, will I be forced to buy URD Cluctch kits or will the larger TOB be compatible with any other OEM spec'd Clutches/Pressure Plates????
     
  13. Torspd

    Torspd Moderator
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    It is compatible with everything.
     
  14. TRON

    TRON Member

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    Has anyone experienced a slight humming sound at idle after installing the steel sleeve kit? The sound goes away only if you engage the clutch pretty much completely.
     
  15. NHXRUNNER

    NHXRUNNER "New Hampster"
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    I've heard of all sorts of noises coming back after installing the kit. Some due to installation error, some to the bearing still failing over time. I can't say a "hum" is one of them but the steel sleeve kit fixes most TOB issues but not all.
     
  16. rjbiii

    rjbiii Member

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  17. TRON

    TRON Member

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    Yup. I don’t think it’s the TOB cause I have to almost completely engage the clutch pedal to the floor before the noise goes away. The humming is very slight and many people probably wouldn’t notice but it usually goes away after the engine completely warms up. It could just be “gearbox rattle” if that is a real thing.
     
  18. Nashman

    Nashman Member

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    most of the reason why is the clutch disk is worn uneven and when that happens the throw out barring will ware uneven and start to make noise over time. oder mine from PDM urd just buys it from them.

    life time warrenty on the sleeve and 1 year on the throw out barring

    my truck no juders some time's when letting out the clutch so I hope it not to badly unevenly worrn and if so i may just order a new disk to install later on
     
  19. NHXRUNNER

    NHXRUNNER "New Hampster"
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    I can't say that I 100% agree with it being related to uneven disk wear. I've had 5 TOBs replaced and only 2 stock clutch disks (original hub separated from the disk and started my TOB mess) and a stage 2 URD clutch in 213,000 miles. The new URD Stage 2 clutch only has about 15-20K on it with a brand new TOB at time of install.....it started squeaking a couple weeks ago. The actual chirp noise is the bearing intermittently making contact with the tines on the pressure plate. That only happens when the bearing or input shaft sleeve wears enough to allow the bearing to "wobble".
     
    TitanRattler813 likes this.
  20. Nashman

    Nashman Member

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    Well I just did mine and pdm kit and I pretty sure I will be replacing it all in a year or 2 you can see the ware is on more of one side of the diaphragm fingers witch leads to uneven ware on the clutch disk plus after the install the shudder is way way less witch just leads to the disc being uneven evenly worn, you will get lots of shudder on 3/6 puck disk but should really never get it on a full face disk.

    oh well all need more clamping power around next year when I add 2 turbos or mabye just one mixed with the magnus super charger and shoot for 450 hp with the most deadly power band ever.
     

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