Personally Id run a heavy gauge common 12V IGN switched wire into a small fuse panel (thats what I have done). Then you can run all your low draw accessories off this one wire.
In the wiring harness you have a switched 30A and 50A wire you can use. Fuse the main wire you tap into the 50A wire with (for 5A or so) and then the fuse panel will take care of the rest of your accessories.
This way if the fuse panel draws to much as a whole the fuse will blow, and if an accessory shorts or draws to much the fuse for that accessory in the panel will blow and you will know where the problem resides.
If you want the lights to be turned on and off with the truck lights just wire a DPDT mini relay in from radioshack (like 4 bucks), or fill up one of those bulbous switch blank voids on your dash board with a toggle lol. You could use one switch or relay for all the gauges.
Then under your driver side kick panel their is a bolt that you can use as a great common ground for everything.
I have my laser jammer, radar detector, interior accent lights, some alarm sensors, and other stuff all wired into this fuse panel. Its the safest and easiest way to do it.
Just tapping random wires under the dash is not a good idea. you have a lot of small wires under the dash that can be near their capacity already. You shouldn't add accessories to wires like these, you can burn them up, cause a fire, and at the very least a large headache, and it looks like n00b sauce crap. The 30A and 50A wires are WAY more likely to have a reserve capacity (some wiggle room) to run accessories off of safely.
Tapping into smaller wires with one or multiple accessories either:
A. Works great forever because you were lucky that the wire wasn't near capacity, or wired in series/parallel with another wire, switch, circuit in the truck that is near capacity. Remember - Toyota doesn't take into account you using their component wires as a power source. When they design a circuit they do so with little wiggle room (on the smaller wires). Its usually just enough to power the item its intended to.
They don't factor your electronic device into the equation when deciding what gauge wire & what electrical components & switches to use.
B. Works great for a while and you get a short or an overdraw and blow a fuse (hopefully it blows the factory fuse in time), if you have multiple accessories hooked up this way you now get to guess what one did it! And what damage it did...
C. Works great but the wire gets real hot as you use the accessory while driving, factory fuse doesn't blow in time, and now you have yourself an electrical fire.
You smell smoke, the dash bursts into flames, the airbag goes off and knocks you out of control on your favorite twisty turny mountain road, as you smash through the guard rail and leave the road you start barreling down the mountain, as the vehicle strikes smaller trees you break your limbs on impact, your car takes out a bunch of kids hiking through the woods on a school field trip, strikes a huge boulder, the fuel ignites, and you burn to death in your beloved but mangled X-Runner.
ALL BECAUSE YOU WIRED YOUR DAMN RADAR DETECTOR INTO A SMALL WIRE UNDER THE DASH!!!!
Ok, maybe thats exaggerated a little. But you get the point.
:-D
ALWAYS solder all your heavy gauge connections (should really always solder everything). You also should use heatshrink tubing on everything as well (but especially heavy gauge connections). And... Electric tape? Go crazy with it! Run all your wires along your factory harnesses and tape the hell out of them, make it look OEM!
You can also just run a common 12V wire in from the battery. Then to make it switched - wire a DPDT relay into a switched IGN wire from under the dash.
As far as your gauge wiring:
"It looks like the 2 wires on top are for the lightbulb - and +. Then you have a - and + for the gauge, then the green wire should go to the sending unit. Take it apart and see. If I am right about the lightbulb than the bottom 3 will be right to."
I concur, take her apart!