Write-Up: Flywheel and Clutch install

Discussion in 'How-To' started by ntinhri, Nov 16, 2008.

  1. ntinhri

    ntinhri Active Member

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    Ok gang heres my first attempt at doing a write up. If any others have suggestions please feel free to give input and I'll insert it in the write up..

    This install was a 6 hour project for me. Im not a fan of air tools only cause I like to feel the bolts turning. Ive cross threaded and mard up too much stuff with air. However air is always nice to have when you have longer bolts..

    Tools needed:
    Jack & (4)Jack stands (Or a truck lift, I wasnt that lucky)
    Trans Jack
    Might need bricks or something to set your stands on if it isnt high enough
    10mm sockets
    12mm sockets and wrench
    14mm sockets and wrench
    17mm sockets and wrench
    7/8 open end, box wrench (buddy bar)
    Pry or wonder bar
    Air rattchet and impact gun
    oil catch can
    funnel
    min of 3' of 1/2" extentions
    1/4" or 3/8" 12 and 14 ratchets
    Brake cleaner
    Penatrating oil/spray
    1.9 qt's of MT-90 trans fluid:top:
    paper towels
    file and/or rat tail (round file)
    Torque wrench
    Breaker bar
    Im sure I missed a few but no real special tools are required

    Ok here it is.......
    get the truck on a LEVEL surface, then Jack that fat girl up!!
    [​IMG]
    I used bricks on the front and went as high as I could, then I lifted the rear as high as I could. the rear was supported on the X-brace.

    Go ahead and remove the shifter.. you can probly get by by not removeing it but its so tight you might scratch or damage the shifter rod.. FYI we tried to drop the trans with the shifter attach and it got real tight.. I suggust take 5 mins and remove the shifter and save your self a scratched up shifter rod..

    Need to drian the trans fluid , its the bolt there under the trans..
    [​IMG]

    good time to spray down exhaust bolts to ensure the break loose easily.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Remove the drive shaft.. the 4 bolts at the rear will require 2 14mm wrenchs and a buddy bar for sure.. them things are TIGHT!!
    [​IMG]

    now undo the 2 bolts that hold the center of the drive shaft. 14mm (I think)
    [​IMG]

    if the trans hasnt drained completly when you pull the drive shaft out have the oil pan at the ready, you might have a lil dribble out.
    [​IMG]

    dont forget to unhook the electrical connections.. o2 sensors speed sensor ect.. there is a wire harness that goes to both sides of the trans..
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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I removed the cross brace next.. 14mm bolts
    [​IMG]

    next I removed the 4 14mm bolts that hold the trans to the cross member.. you will need the wonder bar to pry the cross member out, I'd say have someone or hold the trans so it doesnt just fall.. let it down easy (your your first girl friend)
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    next I removed the y-pipe.. after you bolt it (front and back) yoou can move the cat back over and you can push the y-pipe straight back, its tight but itll fit.. just work it!! Dont forget the rubber things that holds up the y-pipe..

    while your unhooking the y-pipe go ahead an unbolt the header from the black bracket on the side of the trans.
    [​IMG]

    remove the inspect cover, over the slave cylinder..
    [​IMG]

    next unbolt the slave cylinder and the valve above the slave cylinder, we could not get the top bolt until we lowered the trans, so get what you can get now and get that last bolt after you drop the trans a lil bit..
    [​IMG]

    now you can move the trans Jack in and start removing the trans bolts.. they are a mix of 14mm and 17mm FYI.. the trans bolts are all the goldish color.. I suggest breaking them loose, but leaving them all or most in until you get the top 2 bolts out..
    THE BEST WAY TO REMOVE THE TOP 2 BOLTS, IS TO LET THE TRANS HANG AND USE YOUR 3' WRATCHET DRIVER TO UNDO THEM. IT WAS SUGGEST BY OTHERS TO USE AIR.. THE BOLTS ARE LONG..
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    after you loosen the bolts use your trans jack and work it off the engine.. DONT FORGET to unbolt the top bolt on the slave cylinder valve.. also as you lower the trans double check the the wires and the hard slave cylinder pipe.. dont pinch anyone that stuff cause itll cost you.. BECAREFUL!! double check!! look for these..
    [​IMG]

    now that the trans is down just slide it to the back of the truck and outta the way..
    heres the clutch, use a air ratchet and the bolts zip right off..
    [​IMG]

    next use a air gun to remove the flywheel.. I went easy and took them off slowly.. (as you can see it was time for it to go..)
    [​IMG]

    dont forget to replace the throw out bearing.. its held on the folk by 2 clips.. they are kinda a pain to remove.. just take your time you'll get it.. They are clips like spring wires, whats use on front breaks comminly.. yup thats my lil helper (hi jason)
     
    #1 ntinhri, Nov 16, 2008
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2008
  2. ntinhri

    ntinhri Active Member

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    [​IMG]

    now clean you new flywheel with break cleaner..
    [​IMG]
    you may want to test fit the clutch on the flywheel.. you may bave to file the studs on the flywheel and clean out the holes of the clutch assembly..

    install the flywheel, the air gun works well for this after you start the bolts..
    [​IMG]

    install the clutch.. start the srews and hold the clutch plate with your thumb.. just keep it alineded by eye sight.. tighten down the clutch assemby, I crossed over in a start pattern to tighten it up.. just make sure that clutch plate doesnt drop..
    [​IMG]

    from here its all back together like we took it apart.. once you get the trans back in and the bottom all buttoned up, go ahead and before you install the shifter back use a funnel and pour in your MT-90 trans fluid.. it way better than pumping it in..

    I hope this was helpful. Please use this write up as a guide, but know you have to think safe and be safe.. I NOT responsible for you messing something up..

    heres a few other pics..
    stock flywheel:
    [​IMG]

    Lighter flywheel:
    [​IMG]

    Stock clutch assembly:
    [​IMG]

    stage IV clutch and lighten flywheel:
    [​IMG]

    ok for those that have done this do you have anything to add?
     
    ToyotaNewbie97 likes this.
  3. KX7

    KX7 New Member

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    Great write up!!
     
  4. ntinhri

    ntinhri Active Member

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    gee thanks I was trying to get it all under one thread. ketchup? :smile:lol I guess you were more a picture guy................ MOD can you delete his post so mine will go all togther..
     
  5. KETCHUP

    KETCHUP Active Member

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    Sorry bro. I deleted it. I didn't see that last line.....:laugh:
     
  6. ntinhri

    ntinhri Active Member

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    its all good, I know your still catching up...LMAO

    ps thank you for deleting it..
     
  7. KETCHUP

    KETCHUP Active Member

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    :laugh: no problem! :top:
     
  8. Celiblue

    Celiblue New Member

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    You don't really have to completely unbolt the driveshaft from the differential. I just angled it off to the side. Damn good write up though!
     
  9. ntinhri

    ntinhri Active Member

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    you know, I actually thought the same.. but I didnt like the agnel inwhich the front of the drive shaft was going when it wasnt completed out.. Im sure it will pull out but I didnt want to mess up the rear seal on the trans.. I guess to each thier own.. its only a extra few mins and prtentially saves alot of time and money..:top:
     
  10. BSPX

    BSPX Member

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    good write up. how hard was it to get the tranny back in? did you have a tranny jack or just a regular jack? also how long was the install? looking to do this soon. does the clutch kit not come with an alignment tool?
     
  11. Yardie

    Yardie "The Jamaican"

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    Great write up steve :top:. This pic is a classic and must be saved to the archives :laugh:

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Coupe

    Coupe Active Member

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    Nice write up.

    Could the transmission be man handled in? Or does it take a jack?
     
  13. ntinhri

    ntinhri Active Member

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    def need a jack.. its a top heavy bit..... normal first time install I'd say 6 to 8 hours. some will be faster some slower... no alingment tool needed
     
  14. WallasX

    WallasX Active Member

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    Does anyone know the torque specs for the clutch and the trans bolts?

    Im doing this install tomorrow
     
  15. ntinhri

    ntinhri Active Member

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    I cant remember.. call gadget.. he told me the clutch specs.. As far as the trans to, the are "arg" tight.. I didnt use my torqe wrnech on them.. only the clutch. when you find out I'll edit my first post and put them on there, if you post them
     
  16. XRUNX

    XRUNX New Member

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    this is awsome is the T.O bearing shown in any of the pcs if sop can some one circle it for me pleez lol i will prob use this write up when the day comes that i will try to replace it
     
  17. Stevenredx

    Stevenredx New Member

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  18. ntinhri

    ntinhri Active Member

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    TO bearing is the circle thing beside the big head...dead center of the trans
     
  19. DoubleD

    DoubleD New Member

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    When you finished everything up what did you need to do in order to bleed the clutch?
     
  20. Gadget

    Gadget Well-Known Member

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    You do not need to bleed the clutch when changing it. You just unbolt the slave cylinder from the side of the bell housing and let it hang there.

    If you don't open the system you don't need to bleed it.

    But,,,, if you do want to bleed it, it is very simple. Jack the rear of the truck up as high as you can get it and then crack the bleeder screw. It will gravity bleed and run out. With the back up the truck up in the air the bleeder screw port will be the highest part of the slave cylinder so what ever air is in the system will get pushed out. Just let it drain for a while and close it off.

    Make real sure that you do not allow the brake master reservoir run low!!!

    Gadget
     

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