Nashman
Active Member
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2015
- Messages
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When I first bought this truck I liked how it felt but found the rear lsd diff to be some what lazy, so I did some digging and found upgrades for it by calling up wier performance to see if they made a kit for our truck since our lsd is pretty much the same diff found in the mk3 supra 86 to 92.
So I paid for the kit which came to 45 bucks
I all so found another upgrade for our diffs as well form yokon
https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=4850
So some may ask is it worth upgrading the stock diff instead of buying a aftermarket lsd? is our lsd stroung ? Well the answer is yes our diff are very strong the casing will take 1000 plus hores power and not even wink as for the ring and pinon well thats the down fall of any 8 inch toyota diff and well ya cant really fix that.
The best part about our diff it's it's pretty much the first gen tundra diff and has joined baring caps to make the diff even more ridged to stop it front twisting under load.
OK lets get down to the tools you need to installed this kit
- Dail gauge
- basic socket set
- micrometer
- felt pen
- automatic punch or a punch and hammer
- paint pen
diff Oil
80/90 none syntactic oil preferred but I figure once I find it I will swap to 75/90
or if you want a smoother diff then just run synthetic oil like Redline 75/90
lsd addtive
ford
yokon gear
ac delco stuff is gargbage
so drive you truck on the hoist or jack up the rear end in the drive way
clamp the soft brake line with vise grips or line pinching tool undo the brake line fitting then remove 2 bolts that hold the e-brake cable down then the 4 14 mill nuts that hold the axle in and then just pull the axle out
next un bolt your drive shaft from the diff and push it aside and then un bolt you diff and pull it out
Now the fun part keeping every thing in order
I used a white paint pen to mark the one side of the diff showing which side goes were you do not want to mix these up because you back lash will be off.
now it time to mark the case and then pinon for the spider gear so you know wich way then go it is best to use a punch for this one mark close to the top of the pin then one on the case
un due the carrier bolts and then take the diff apart and keep the plates in order and all ways keep the one clutch that has one blank side and one textured side on the case side this is what toyota used to shim the diff from the factory
once it is all apart you have the option on glass beading the stock coating off if you want a smoother diff might be an idea to leave it on but it does were out fast I chose to remove it so my spider gear back lash will not change as fast
next we start to shim the clutch pack and mic out all the shims
it best to start off with the thickest shim and go from there and then put your clutch pack in the lsd unit and pop in you spider gear assembly then setup your dail gauge and then rock one of the spider gears with you finger and see what back lash you have and add from there. I ran 20 in stead of the 005 target mostly because I ran out of shims and still way tighter then stock. ps may be good idea to ask wes to add more shim's to the kit if you plan to remove the coating. Ps you have to make sure you clean off all the oil or it will mess with your measure ment
then all ya do if repeat this on the other clutch pack
now ya just have to put it together just remmber the spring retainer plates go only one way and try to miss aline the retainer pins
pop in the new helper spring
slip on the plate and aline the pins and then place up cap on the diff to put it together then use to clamps to slowly clamp the case together wail making sure the pins are lined up
then torq the retainer bolts to 35 foot pounds
then use a dead blow to tap the shims back in
then tap on the carrie cap I useded 2 dead blows because well one just was not doing it because I was rocking it back and forth with just the one and I am sorry I forgot the bolt torq spec i will have to look that up at work
and there you have it a new better then stock diff that you will just love
ps it's best to use half the bottle of lsd additive when you first break in the new diff if you choosed to remove the coating you will not have to find a place to drive in figure 8 for about 1/2 and hour at about 30 km then after that drain the oil and then add the rest of the bottle and then enjoy
warning the diff will clunk abit for awail tell it break's in this is normal if you don't like the clunk you can just run synthetic oil this should make it clunk less
I may dump my fuild out that i have right now but my clunk is going away.
well i know there has got to be about billion spelling grammar mistakes but all fix thosu later and add to the write up cheers for now
So I paid for the kit which came to 45 bucks
I all so found another upgrade for our diffs as well form yokon
https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=4850
So some may ask is it worth upgrading the stock diff instead of buying a aftermarket lsd? is our lsd stroung ? Well the answer is yes our diff are very strong the casing will take 1000 plus hores power and not even wink as for the ring and pinon well thats the down fall of any 8 inch toyota diff and well ya cant really fix that.
The best part about our diff it's it's pretty much the first gen tundra diff and has joined baring caps to make the diff even more ridged to stop it front twisting under load.
OK lets get down to the tools you need to installed this kit
- Dail gauge
- basic socket set
- micrometer
- felt pen
- automatic punch or a punch and hammer
- paint pen
diff Oil
80/90 none syntactic oil preferred but I figure once I find it I will swap to 75/90
or if you want a smoother diff then just run synthetic oil like Redline 75/90
lsd addtive
ford
yokon gear
ac delco stuff is gargbage
so drive you truck on the hoist or jack up the rear end in the drive way
clamp the soft brake line with vise grips or line pinching tool undo the brake line fitting then remove 2 bolts that hold the e-brake cable down then the 4 14 mill nuts that hold the axle in and then just pull the axle out
next un bolt your drive shaft from the diff and push it aside and then un bolt you diff and pull it out
Now the fun part keeping every thing in order
I used a white paint pen to mark the one side of the diff showing which side goes were you do not want to mix these up because you back lash will be off.
now it time to mark the case and then pinon for the spider gear so you know wich way then go it is best to use a punch for this one mark close to the top of the pin then one on the case
un due the carrier bolts and then take the diff apart and keep the plates in order and all ways keep the one clutch that has one blank side and one textured side on the case side this is what toyota used to shim the diff from the factory
once it is all apart you have the option on glass beading the stock coating off if you want a smoother diff might be an idea to leave it on but it does were out fast I chose to remove it so my spider gear back lash will not change as fast
next we start to shim the clutch pack and mic out all the shims
it best to start off with the thickest shim and go from there and then put your clutch pack in the lsd unit and pop in you spider gear assembly then setup your dail gauge and then rock one of the spider gears with you finger and see what back lash you have and add from there. I ran 20 in stead of the 005 target mostly because I ran out of shims and still way tighter then stock. ps may be good idea to ask wes to add more shim's to the kit if you plan to remove the coating. Ps you have to make sure you clean off all the oil or it will mess with your measure ment
then all ya do if repeat this on the other clutch pack
now ya just have to put it together just remmber the spring retainer plates go only one way and try to miss aline the retainer pins
pop in the new helper spring
slip on the plate and aline the pins and then place up cap on the diff to put it together then use to clamps to slowly clamp the case together wail making sure the pins are lined up
then torq the retainer bolts to 35 foot pounds
then use a dead blow to tap the shims back in
then tap on the carrie cap I useded 2 dead blows because well one just was not doing it because I was rocking it back and forth with just the one and I am sorry I forgot the bolt torq spec i will have to look that up at work
and there you have it a new better then stock diff that you will just love
ps it's best to use half the bottle of lsd additive when you first break in the new diff if you choosed to remove the coating you will not have to find a place to drive in figure 8 for about 1/2 and hour at about 30 km then after that drain the oil and then add the rest of the bottle and then enjoy
warning the diff will clunk abit for awail tell it break's in this is normal if you don't like the clunk you can just run synthetic oil this should make it clunk less
I may dump my fuild out that i have right now but my clunk is going away.
well i know there has got to be about billion spelling grammar mistakes but all fix thosu later and add to the write up cheers for now
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