springs

[GSX-Runner]

I don't know sh!t about suspension so please forgive me.

I really want to lower the front of my truck. The C2C method would work great but won't work with my winter wheels and I'm not diggin the SOS kit. So I'm probably going to go with the DJM even though its an inch lower than I want to go.

Befor I drop 800 bones on this kit I'd like to know what it would cost to get a pair of springs made up. Has anyone looked into this? What would be the downside to this method be?

Now for the really dumb question. How come the only information I find on the BJ flip method is on the 04- tacos? Is it not possible with our trucks?

Thanks in advance!

 

[azjimi]

Befor I drop 800 bones on this kit I'd like to know what it would cost to get a pair of springs made up. Has anyone looked into this? What would be the downside to this method be?
!

You mean rear springs?

 

[XDsm]

Now for the really dumb question. How come the only information I find on the BJ flip method is on the 04- tacos? Is it not possible with our trucks?

Our front suspension is completely different and unable to do the balljoint flip.

 

[GSX-Runner]

You mean rear springs?

front, in the rear I'll just go with the blocks and air assist for hauling and pulling, nothes if needed.

 

[Jonathan]

you cannot lower the front more than 1.5 inches with lowering springs anyways, there is simply not enough travel to play with since the springs are already an inch lower from the factory. :top:

 

[REG CAB X]

I would go with the DJM kit and then buy a set of these. Kind of expensive way to get a 1.5 inch drop up front but you would be able to run your stock springs and struts and still be able to run you winter wheels. These spacers bolt to the top of your struts and then they bolt in the stock location. I am not 100% sure if the 4x4 strut pocket is the same as the 2wd strut pockets as far as the mounting pattern goes. They both look the same to me but I am not going to say they are. I will try to draw a little picture for you showing what these components would do to your suspension. Only because you say you know nothing about suspensions.

 

[REG CAB X]

OK after sketching this out in ms paint it looks like you would need to make sure the DJM upper arm has enough clearance to go around the spring. Maybe Dog or Jonathan could post a pic of the upper arm and spring installed. Like I said before I am not 100% sure this would work but in my head it does. Here is my rough sketch to give you an idea of what effects the lowering arms have on the location of the suspension parts. The DJM arms move the spindle and wheel up about 3" then the spacer would move the spindle and wheel back down 1.5". This would work better if you could have a set of those spacers made that were 1" thick.

I am just throwing out ideas as I think of them. This is the same kind of thought process I had when I was lowering my truck back before any kits existed to do it. This is how I discovered moving my a arms up would allow me to align my truck after lowering it.. I sketched it out and it looked like it would work so I went out side and started modifying and sure enough, it worked.

 

[DOGSTOY06]

here's the best pic I have of the upper a arm but Imust say isn't this defeating the purpose of the djm drop? oh well here it is.

[/IMG]

 

[Jonathan]

 

[DOGSTOY06]

thanks bro thats a better version

 

[Spicy Taco X]

Why is the DJM kit so much more than the C2C kit? Does it use a different method for the drop?:dontknow:

 

[DOGO X]

Why is the DJM kit so much more than the C2C kit? Does it use a different method for the drop?:dontknow:

Cause you are replacing parts with the DJM kit.

 

[Jonathan]

Why is the DJM kit so much more than the C2C kit? Does it use a different method for the drop?:dontknow:

yes, different methods. you can only go so low on stock a arms and without a notch. the sos/ c2c is pretty close to the limits as far as drop goes ( ofcourse we are talking about keeping it safe and reliable). the djm replaces the upper and lower a arms, and provides a notch for the back. that extra inch and 1/4 really costs an arm in the leg. if i were to do it again, id stick with the c2c kit, save money, and not rub on speedbumps or rub tire:argh:

 

[CBRBob]

The DJM kit keeps the steering geometry as correct as possible for overall handling and tire wear etc. The c2c kit just lowers the truck, no regard for steering geometry. SOS keeps steering geomery but not as well as DJM.

 

[Jonathan]

The DJM kit keeps the steering geometry as correct as possible for overall handling and tire wear etc. The c2c kit just lowers the truck, no regard for steering geometry. SOS keeps steering geomery but not as well as DJM.

actually, none of them really do. the sos makes the bottom a arms actually point up, where the optimal and stock is around 15 degrees down. this definately neagativly affect handling. i poked around and read some arcticles why the lower a arm angle is critical when i was producing my own sos stlye kit, but i forget the details it was awhile ago. the c2c retains this, though. the djm is fine, but, the steering rod is point wayyyy up, which cant be good, either. there are postives and negatives to every set up.

 

[DOGSTOY06]

ACTUALLY LOOKED AT THE RACK SET-UP AND THERE IS ROOM TO MOVE IT UP.THINK THAT WOULD BE SAFER THEN MOVING UPPER ARM MOUNT HOLES TO COMPENSATE FOR NEGATIVE CAMBER THAT CAN'T BE ELIMINATED OTHERWISE.:dontknow: :top:

 

[CBRBob]

ACTUALLY LOOKED AT THE RACK SET-UP AND THERE IS ROOM TO MOVE IT UP.THINK THAT WOULD BE SAFER THEN MOVING UPPER ARM MOUNT HOLES TO COMPENSATE FOR NEGATIVE CAMBER THAT CAN'T BE ELIMINATED OTHERWISE.:dontknow: :top:

Yes you can, only about 1/2 in though. If you want to do it more what happens is the u-joint on the steering shaft hits the motor mount. Best way around that would be to unbolt the rack, have the bottom of the motor mount cut away and then plated and rewelded. Then the rack could be moved up more :top:

 

[DOGSTOY06]

now that you mention it bob I do remember it was a small amount but could be done saying what you said.still think it would be safer than moving the a-arm mount holes.the engineers designed that bracket and put that hole where they did for more than estetics. I'd be worried bout stress cracking the bracket movin the hole.:dontknow: :top:

 

[CBRBob]

If you really want to do that right, remove all4 pockets and fab up new ones with an identical change in height to the spacers. Then again, with all this work, it's not cheap anymore.

 

[DOGSTOY06]

exactly.then it would get the cost to near the DJM range.