T56 Write UP

[revobreaker]

Anything in yellow is an editing note.

I wanted to put together some information on the T56 swap all in one place. This will be pic heavy supplemental info for anyone who is going to do this, Or someone who may pick up used parts down the road and need to complete the kit on their own.

I want to thank everyone who did this before me, Especially Torspd, blackx-runner, and turbomach1. And sweetwilliebrownjr for selling me his kit.

original swap discussion thread:
http://www.xr-underground.com/vb3/showthread.php?t=34093

Second thread:
http://www.xr-underground.com/vb3/showthread.php?t=42148

turbomach1's swap thread:
http://www.xr-underground.com/vb3/showthread.php?t=49072

Torspd's mega thread:
http://www.xr-underground.com/vb3/showthread.php?t=39436

sweetwilliebrownjr's shifter thread:
http://www.xr-underground.com/vb3/showthread.php?t=46477

My photobucket album of pics. There are some dupes, and extras, but i got most of the important ones posted: http://s57.photobucket.com/user/revobreaker/library/T56%20swap

APR Designed the conversion kit and as of right now there is one piece that is next to impossible for you to get, that is the bell housing adapter. All of the other pieces can be sourced or fabricated with relative ease. The bell housing adapter could be fabricated, but that is going to require r&d time and $$$. APR may or may not have kits available, I am unsure the total number they produced and shipped. I do not believe that APR is producing these kits anymore. If you want to get this done you will have try to find a used kit or try to develop your own. NOTE: APR is no longer a vendor on XRU and this thread is not the place do discuss APR, their business, or group buys.

First up the instructions developed with the kit. In my opinion they are rather lacking, but on the other hand this conversion is not for everyone and takes a certain amount of knowledge and confidence to undertake. I think they may have also left the instructions a little vague because of some variants in T56 transmissions available If you have the full kit this is really a bolt on system the only thing you have to modify is cutting the hole in the floor to allow the shifter to come through, and getting the drive shaft cut down to fit.

need to check links to make sure PDFs come up right

T56 install instustions

T56 wiring instructions

T56 schematic

DakotaDigital calibrator instructions

This is all based on my experience of completing the swap:

The parts NOT included in the kit that you have to source:
-Clutch disk (turbomach1 found an 11" Camaro disk with the correct splines from summit racing. I am also currently using this disk for now. Centerforce p/n:381017 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctf-381017)
-Flywheel (needs a pilot bearing installed)
-Pressure plate
(Gadget at URD should be able to help with those three, and has a twin disk setup, as does MceLeod racing)
-T56 transmission (1998ish Camaro has been recommended as a donor, many other options and variations are available too)
-Shifter & knob (I am using a MGW Fbody shifter http://www.mgwltd.com/camaro_short_throw_shifter.shtml)
-Drive shaft work (approx. 1" is cut off the front shaft, and then the whole assembly is re balanced)
-Gear change in the rear, the ration depends on the ration you have in your trans ( I ordered a fully built 4.10 third member from Justdifferentials for a quick drop in solutionhttp://www.justdifferentials.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=44)
-Trans Fluid ( T56 uses ATF!, I went with stuff from Amsoil)
-Gear oil for when you open the rear (Also used Amsoil)
Shiftboot?(I was able to reuse mine, but it was a custom made boot and custom bent shifter)
-

Parts included in the kit:
Bellhousing! Unique to this kit!
NOTE: The Toyota bellhousing has mounting spots for the Exhaust hangers that connect to the header collector flange. the new belhousing does NOT include any mounting options for this, the hangers do not get reused

Trans crossmember. This is nicely built and bolts right up. Someone with decent fab skills and tools could reproduce this.

Transmission mount from energy suspension p/n 3.1108G

Pilot bearing to be installed into flywheel p/n 6002 2rs

Shift stalk Hurst p/n 2388009

Inner Shift boot Spectre p/n 6284

Shift hole cover piece of metal (I just used some flashing on mine)

Throwout bearing NAPA p/n 360058
NOTES: this throwout bearing/slave cylinder is 'unique' APR machined a spacer that mounts on the tip of this bearing. The problem is that if you have to replace the assembly you have to transfer the spacer over, simple right? Well that depends on you finding that exact assembly As of now the exact same part number from Napa is different. it appears that there has been a revision made and the new TOB is not compatible with the spacer. The new TOB is rounded and wider. Otherwise you are going to need to develop a new spacer or find a different assembly. Torspd has worked with Mcleod Racing and is using an adjustable version (more info needed)

Yoke - 1330 series 27 spline fits t350 and powerglides The yoke needs to be mounted to your drive shaft with a new u-joint when it is shortened and balanced.

Dakota Digital Speedo Conversion Box p/n SGI-5 rev. c
see my install here http://www.xr-underground.com/vb3/showthread.php?t=52312

Wiring harnesses (all of these plugs are common T56 plugs that can be easily found)
Reverse lock out solenoid

relay for reverse lock out(pre attached to the Dakota Digital box)

VSS harness

reverse lamp switch (notice it comes wit wires epoxied into the switch)

Need specs on bolts:

T56 to bellhousing bolts

Shifter bolts

Crossmember bolts

Throwout Bearing

The T56 has twice as many electronics as the stocker: reverse lockout solenoid, reverse lamp switch, Speed sensor and a skip shift solenoid.

Stock trans top-down view. Blue circled connector on the left is the VSS. The Green one is the reverse lamp switch.

Standard T56 reverse switch (purple arrow) with a connector harness. (on right side of T56, pic taken from under the trans, looking toward the front of the truck. Notice the connector makes it considerably longer and I had to "massage" the truck a little bit as you can see to the right of the connector.

The left side of the T56 (still under it facing toward the front of the truck) You can see the Yellow circle is the Reverse solenoid, and the Red circle is the VSS.

There is also a skip-shift solenoid , but its not necessary so I didnt worry bout it.

The reverse lamp switch is easy, connect the two wires to the stock harness ( I dont think polarity matters as I believe its just a switch closure and I did not pay attention to how I connected mine.)

The factory VSS connector is three wire, the T56 is 2
I cant remember which wire goes where off the top of my head

You have some options for the reverse lockout:
The solenoid can be left un-hooked, and you can strong arm it into reverse.
Or you can connect a switch that you manually hit when you want to make it easier to go into reverse. The solenoid just need 12v and ground (polarity doesn't matter).
You can wire it up via the instructions with the X-1. (If you have a UCON you will have to check with URD)
OR:
Since I am not using the x1 so their wiring instructions are next to useless for me.

But I did find this stand alone module which only activates the solenoid while under 5mph
http://www.samocoind.com/T56MODULE.htm
I went ahead and bought one and installed it. it works! It does seem to have a little more of a delay then I was expecting. The instructions say that it deactivates the reverse lockout at 5mph, but many times I feel that I have to completely stop before it allows me to go into reverse (still better than having to strong arm it IMO)

This thing comes with instructions that are really easy to follow, and each wire is labled.

Clutch hydraulics adapter
This is a custom made adapter -3AN Male to 10mm x 1.0 Female Inverted Flare. If you know someone who can tig weld it could be reproduced. This connects directly from the new TOB/slave assemble to the factory Toyota line.

Torspd found a pre-made fitting available from Jeggs: Earl's#361-989538

http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/9895...arentProductId=

 

[Torspd]

Clutch hydraulics adapter
This is a custom made adapter -4an to bspt flare fitting. Check my specs here If you know someone who can tig weld it could be reproduced. This connects directly from the new TOB/slave assemble to the factory Toyota line.
Torspd found a pre-made fitting available from Jeggs p/n reference needed

http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/989538/10002/-1?parentProductId=


Output shaft seal for Viper output shaft:

http://www.tickperformance.com/tremec-99-rear-output-seal-boot-viper/

This should be the seal for the regular output shaft:

http://www.tickperformance.com/tremec-99-rear-output-seal-boot-f-body-gto-cobra/


Add this in Revo. :top: Then I will delete this post.

 

[revobreaker]

Getting too long may have to break it into two post...

Misc hardware I added:

I picked up a silicone gasket from http://www.stangshiftergaskets.com/catalog-Camaro.htm so I didnt have to use any RTV, but it is a pain in the ass to get it to sit right, and I pinched it while re-installing it once and it started leaking. So if you decide to use this just be careful and make sure you get it siting right.

I had to replace the tail-shaft seal on my trans so I just went to autozone and picked one up, should be fine right...wrong! A day after the install I noticed the wonderful smell of trans fluid burning off my Y-pipe. Got an AC Delco seal that also has a dust boot on it and its holding up well p\n (1253078)
This is what the cheap crappy one looked like after I removed it.

and a good one

Output shaft seal for Viper output shaft:
http://www.tickperformance.com/treme...al-boot-viper/

This should be the seal for the regular output shaft:
http://www.tickperformance.com/treme...ody-gto-cobra/


I also picked up a bronze bushing to replace the factory nylon one http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3838217/6239116.htm

This didnt go well. it is a very tight fit and I could not get it into the cup far enough, thought it might be ok...NOPE it was sticking up to far and was preventing me from putting it into reverse. I was fuming when I couldn't back out of the garage, calmed down and started taking things back apart (starting with the shifter luckly!) when I saw how high the bushing still was, I knew the issue. quickly swapped back to the nylon one and was good to go. I will re visit the bushing later a see how that goes.

And to make it official I added a nice Coupe Shift Knob


Additional hardware recommendations from Torspd:
Jiffy-Tite Connectors - for easy and quick removal of trans at a later date
http://motorsports.jiffy-tite.com/fittings#.UalMQ9LVCbs
Very cool, but I have not needed to pull my trans yet, if I do I may add them next time.

Suggested part from turbomach1's thread:
clutch remote bleed line for easy bleeding (this one from from tick performance p/n TPSBL)
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick...ine-for-c5-corvette-z06-04-06-gto-ls1-f-body/

Thats what I have for the first cut right now

 

[revobreaker]

Im pretty much done unless you guys have any comments or suggestions.

 

[Torspd]

I could. Just need to do so when not half asleep. Good stuff for the database. Well done my man.

 

[X-roller]

I am so glad I found this thread! Subbd

 

[Torspd]

Be so happy that I made it a Sticky. Lol.

It is a beautifully helpful thread, thanks to Revobreaker.

 

[TheAngeryGinger]

Great write up. :top: Just wish it was a little easier to find these kits.

 

[GrumpyOldMan]

Wanted to Buy - T56 Trans adapter kit, will trade left or right nut (been married 13 yrs so they're not of much use any more LOL) DISCLAIMER: Posting Under Influence

Nice write up guys

 

[Torspd]

:rofl: I have seen worse given up. Lol

 

[Coupe]

Excellent write up.

I recently replaced my clutch and had a few issues, that I would like to share.

1. Was the slave cylinder/APR spacer adapter.


This is a pic of the old set up with the APR spacer on top. The spacer is what I am pointing at.




This is a pic of what is UNDER the adapter. Notice the square cornered bearing.

GM has revised this hard corner bearing. The new design is better. It is wider and has a radiused edge. This is a pic of the new slave cylinder with a TO bearing.



The part that sucks is the old APR spacer will not fit on the near TO bearing.

Time for PLAN B.

My truck was down because of this and I made a couple of quick decisions that got me in trouble. So i will share my failures with my success.

I measured the old adapter and went to a local machine shop and made a spacer to go under the slave cylinder that duplicated the thickness of the APR spacer.


These are pics of my spacer.

This is the spacer installed.





This pic shows the differences of height between the new & old slave cylinder. The slave cylinder on the left has the APR Spacer over the TO bearing on top.

I used a slightly different clutch combo this go around. I wanted to do a little experimenting. This is where I got into some trouble and made a couple of bad decisions.

The stack up of my new components were different from my old components. Before you can determine the "NEW" spacer thickness, you need to take some measurements.

This is from RAM's web site.



Do not skip this step. I did this with a tape measure and a straight edge. If you can change a clutch you can make these measurements.

On the left of the figure, you measure from the clutch fingers to the mounting flange of the bell housing. This is Dimension "A".

On the right you have the dimension from the face of the throw out bearing to the mounting flange of the trans. This is Dimension "B". You want to take the big spring out of the slave cylinder and push the black plastic part all the way up to the trans. Taking the spring off makes this easier.

You take dimension "A" - "B" = 1/16" to 1/8". The "A" dimension must be bigger than the "B" dimension.

I need to add a disclaimer here. These dimensions shown on the pic are based on using RAM's slave cylinder. I used a stock GM's slave cylinder. As a result, I tried to have a resulting dimension of 1/16" to 1/8".

For you that are AI (algebra impaired) this means"

Take measurement "A"-1/16" = "B" minimum.

"A" - 1/8" = B maximum.

You measure your "B" dimension, then add shims to get between the minimum & maximum values.

I did not do this step until AFTER I made my new spacer. I did some research on the LS engine sites to realize my mistake.

If you go to Rams website.
http://www.ramclutches.com/index.html

Look what I found.
http://www.ramclutches.com/zen-cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=63&products_id=701

Looks pretty damn close to what I machined. This comes in different thickness.

If you look around there are a couple of companies that offer thin shims to fine tune the dimensions.
http://www.thechicagogarage.com/forum/ams-performance/54978-new-product-ams-t56-clutch-shim.html

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-performance-slave-cylinder-shim-kit-3-pack/

These are a couple of sources.

This is what I ended up with a 3/4" spacer with a 1/8" shim. This will vary with your clutch combo. So you have to do the measurements.




That take me to the next minor issue. Since I moved the slave cylinder BASE 7/8", the bleeder does not fall in the bellhousing cut out any more. I could have used a die grinder and wallowed the existing cut-out. Torspd had told me of the remoter bleeders, so I wend that way instead. Again you can get these from a variety of sources. I bought mine from Speedway. You could order it with any length. I used 12".
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/T56-Release-Bearing-Remote-Bleeder,41385.html



This pic shows the braided stainless bleeder hose coming out of the bellhousing.

Something else I would like to note, when I pulled the components down, my input bushing was toast. I will probably make an aluminum bronze bushing to replace this on the next clutch swap. I could not find any bronze bushing to replace the 6062 RS input bearing, so I will have to make some.

 

[Torspd]

I looked for those bushings as well. They with their tapered inlet, make it much easier to stab the transmission for sure.

If you can make one similar to the GM style saturaded bronze bushing, I will take one too. Only other alternative for me, is to use a Micro Blue Ceramic BB instead.

My original Peer bearing was toast as well.

Thank you for the additions Coupe. This stuff is golden. :top:

 

[XR]

My pilot bearing was toast as well.

If you make a bushing I'm in.

1. Torspd
2. XR

 

[Coupe]

I will probably make a small run of ten.

 

[XR]

Sweet well I'm in

 

[Coupe]

Is anyone else running a T56 magnum?

I have noticed an unique problem with the shifter.

 

[Torspd]

Might as well post it up anyway, incase someone does.

 

[Coupe]

I am working on this fix for this over the week end.

 

[XR]

Whats the skinny with the shifter?

 

[Coupe]

This is only the case on the T56 magnum.

Mine is leaking trans fluid.

There is a gear under the shifter. This throws a lot of fluid on the shifter. It causes it to drip some fluid. more than I am happy with.

I have only found two companies that offer a short shifter for a Manum. Both leak.