2.85" Pulley Nightmare

[grifter95]

Will do Gadget. I just hate bothering you and know u are busy. But I think the project has just about kicked my but. Now I would be happy to get the APR pulley off and start another route.

 

[RossK35]

I had the exact same problem when i put mine on. Got it almost all the way on and it was stuck. Bent the pulley trying to get off. Had to heat it to get it off used a torch. Had to sand the shaft on the s/c down because it screwed it up. When I put the new replacement one on I lightly sanded the pulley itself and it went on very easy that time.

 

[grifter95]

ROSSK35.... did u do anything to insulate s/c shaft or body from torch... or did u simply aim torch at pulley and rotate? At this point I am willing to sacrifice a pulley to get it off and start over. This has been a PITA.

 

[Gadget]

Before you go setting your truck on fire, please call URD Tech Support.

G

 

[gregincali]

:thumbdown::thumbdown:

:thumbdown::thumbdown:

 

[grifter95]

Talked with Gadget at tech support. Was very helpful. Suggested that I take snout off of S/C and take it to a machine shop and have them press it on the rest of the way. Did that but the pulley was distorted enough the face was distorting instead of just pressing on. So we used his extra heavy duty puller and it finally got the APR 2.85 pulley off. So now I will get the other pulley I have pressed on while I have the snout off.

 

[STONER-X]

JUST CALL GADGET!!!!! he can get you set straight.... and tell you the proper way to get the pulley off... a torch is a TON of concentrated heat you can easily damage more than the pulley.... like possibably the $4500 blower.... or aim the torch wrong and melt something else

 

[grifter95]

No torch here. After polishing the gouges out of the shaft left behind from the APR pulley. The shop used their 40 ton press and the new URD pulley went on in under 5 seconds. It was upsetting how easy it was after some many hours of fighting the APR pulley. Now all I have to do is reinstall the S/C snout, fill the S/C oil up, and reattach the belts. Finally.
The only problem is the red pulley looks so good I might have to add more red accents under the hood.

 

[Torspd]

Wow. That was one heck of a pulley install. :crinklehair: Well, at least you are about to have it back together and boosting finally again.

 

[grifter95]

Yeah I forgot I had MURPHY helping me with the install. Turning a 30 minute job into a three day disaster. But the light is visible.

 

[Murderface]

Murphy is always by my side but I usually kick his ass when he starts his shit ROFL
good to see u got it done, now all u need is an NST OD pulley set

 

[grifter95]

Would do in a heartbeat if the x1 was available. I probably will go the map-ecu3 route.... im just dreading all the cutting, splicing, and soldering.

 

[Torspd]

Yeah, that is a bit of a headache, but use the proper size splices for the job. Make sure to do it in the middle of the wire. Sounds redundant, but trust me, some people just don't know. Shielded Arrow connectors are great. :top: unless you want to do the soldering route.

 

[STONER-X]

Would do in a heartbeat if the x1 was available. I probably will go the map-ecu3 route.... im just dreading all the cutting, splicing, and soldering.

if gadget wrote the instructions then it will be cake.... read them twice then read them and find the wires then read them and do the work..

if you have done a maf cal then it cant be any harder than that...

 

[grifter95]

Well S/C snout sealed and re-installed. S/C oil filled up. Belts reattached. Then jumped on the headers. Took awhile but was fairly straightforward. Only glitch was the drivers side O2 sensor from the headers. It wouldn't budge. Soaked the exposed threads in penetrating oil for several hours. When I got on it it finally gave way but the threads were gone-gone. Looks like they welded the threaded bung in the headers with the sensor installed. So I got to get a new sensor ordered monday since nobody within an hours has one instock. Toyota quoted me $145. Auto parts stores prices ranged from $105 to $400. Crazy. Just got the hole plugged for right now til I can get a new one. Where is the cheapest place to get one... new or used?

 

[STONER-X]

www.rockauto.com

 

[butters607]

Well S/C snout sealed and re-installed. S/C oil filled up. Belts reattached. Then jumped on the headers. Took awhile but was fairly straightforward. Only glitch was the drivers side O2 sensor from the headers. It wouldn't budge. Soaked the exposed threads in penetrating oil for several hours. When I got on it it finally gave way but the threads were gone-gone. Looks like they welded the threaded bung in the headers with the sensor installed. So I got to get a new sensor ordered monday since nobody within an hours has one instock. Toyota quoted me $145. Auto parts stores prices ranged from $105 to $400. Crazy. Just got the hole plugged for right now til I can get a new one. Where is the cheapest place to get one... new or used?

I would get in contact with gadget he can get you one and quick I bet I know he stocks these

 

[Kawaianiani]

Damned, the cap screw was missing in my set too, got a replacement, then went to remove the pulley and the puller sheared in half and the cap screw sheared in the snout of the s/c. Now its on to probably getting some carbide bits and getting it out or some left handed drill bits.

 

[Murderface]

^^^that sux! I've been wanting to switch from a URD 2.825" pulley to an APR 2.85" pulley but u guys got me freaking out that I will have issues with it. I'll pass for now

 

[Kawaianiani]

^ Thats the crappy part about it is a was never able to get the OEM pulley off yet. I think Im going to have to wait till it gets like 40 deg. out the heat the pulley as well.