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SignUp Now!i'm scared as crap to mess with cam gears now...
I dont really understand why you need them both on top at the same time. If the cam gear has the alignment pin, and the target tooth has the dot, why cant you get one on top and swap it, then rotate the engine until the other one comes up and swap that one. I would figure as long as you havv the dot in the new gear in the same place and the dot on the original gear ( under the same link in the chain), then it shouldnt matter.
I may have just thought about it so much, I confused myself, but that is where I always end up
Justin
The idea there is that if the exhaust cam chain slips off the intake cam and you loose that reference you have the whole engine in alignment so you can recover without to much trouble.
G
Take note that the timing marks on the VVTI mechanisms on bank 1 and bank 2 are different.
Again if your not sure take it to someone who is!
its not that bad, there was a video floating of the install that shows you .
I really dont see how it can get screwed up if you mark the link and put the dot back under it and get the alignment pin right.
It really sucks to see Gtmoy have this problem. :thumpdown:
Justin
I dont really understand why you need them both on top at the same time. If the cam gear has the alignment pin, and the target tooth has the dot, why cant you get one on top and swap it, then rotate the engine until the other one comes up and swap that one. I would figure as long as you havv the dot in the new gear in the same place and the dot on the original gear ( under the same link in the chain), then it shouldnt matter.
I believe that's the whole thing about timing the engine. You need both sides 'timed' in order to have the engine running correctly. Just my thoughts on this.
When I did mine, I got dot and the keyhole on the gear to line up with the yellow links on the exhaust chain and the timing marks on my intake cam cover also the crank pulley. But never the orange link on the intake chain. My MKII install has been successful except the intercooler / throttle body tube blew off and I was runing 9.0 afr and the guardian kicked in immediately. I had to re-tighten some hose clamps and suck out some rotrex oil.....Max (WHEN RUNNING) Duh. Very sorry to hear this. Let us know what you need.
What X1 Break in have you all been following? I've given it about 4 hours of drive time without hammering on it. When I start it it will idle a little high then drop down to normal, but from time to time my idle will gurgle or fluxuate and naturally idles higher when my efan kicks on. My AFR runs around high 13 to low 14's until I give it gas she levels out at 14.6 - 14.8. I see 11's and 12's at boost. Stage II
all you are doing is making sure you put the new gear in the same chain links as the original one
Plus the chain needs to sit correctly, crank pulley '0 and all other marks alligned.....correct me if I'm wrong but that's what I understand out of it. By the way Gadget told me that the OEM cam gear has a dot also?
That is correct and yes the stock cam have a dot too. I found it much easier to set up the timing with the notches and yellow link marks, along with the crank pulley. I must of spun the motor around a hundred times about a 1/2 hour ,looking for the color pattern on the chains that I never found.
That is correct and yes the stock cam have a dot too. I found it much easier to set up the timing with the notches and yellow link marks, along with the crank pulley. I must of spun the motor around a hundred times about a 1/2 hour ,looking for the color pattern on the chains that I never found.