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gtmoy's URD MKII install/build thread

T0LLPHR33

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sorry to hear your having so much problems. hope everything works out for you...good luck and keep us posted...
 

Tunedx

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Whats the whole point of the valve body upgrade. What eactly does this do. Is it worth doing money to perform this mod?
 

My68ur8trd

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that sucks to here,

when I installed mine, I got it all together and went to bed, then woke up at like 2 am with this hunch that I didnt tighten the cam bolt all the way back down, we back in the garage and tore it down again..:smile:

come to find out, I had tightened it all down, but I was paranoid.


I could never get all of the paint marks to line up. So with the tip from gadget, I got the orange marks on the VVT actuators to line up and the dots on the cam gears under the arrows on the bearing caps. I them painted the link above the dot, and swapped the gears.

I could never get the yellow marks to line up.

but everything seems fine with mine

I dont really understand why you need them both on top at the same time. If the cam gear has the alignment pin, and the target tooth has the dot, why cant you get one on top and swap it, then rotate the engine until the other one comes up and swap that one. I would figure as long as you havv the dot in the new gear in the same place and the dot on the original gear ( under the same link in the chain), then it shouldnt matter.

I may have just thought about it so much, I confused myself, but that is where I always end up

Justin
 

My68ur8trd

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i'm scared as crap to mess with cam gears now...

its not that bad, there was a video floating of the install that shows you .

I really dont see how it can get screwed up if you mark the link and put the dot back under it and get the alignment pin right.

It really sucks to see Gtmoy have this problem. :thumpdown:

Justin
 

Gadget

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I dont really understand why you need them both on top at the same time. If the cam gear has the alignment pin, and the target tooth has the dot, why cant you get one on top and swap it, then rotate the engine until the other one comes up and swap that one. I would figure as long as you havv the dot in the new gear in the same place and the dot on the original gear ( under the same link in the chain), then it shouldnt matter.

I may have just thought about it so much, I confused myself, but that is where I always end up

Justin

The idea there is that if the exhaust cam chain slips off the intake cam and you loose that reference you have the whole engine in alignment so you can recover without to much trouble.

G
 

My68ur8trd

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The idea there is that if the exhaust cam chain slips off the intake cam and you loose that reference you have the whole engine in alignment so you can recover without to much trouble.

G

gotcha,

so my theory isnt wrong, its just easier to have it all on top at the same time

Thanks :top:

Justin
 

5000XD

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Take note that the timing marks on the VVTI mechanisms on bank 1 and bank 2 are different.

Again if your not sure take it to someone who is!

Yes sir.

I will do this myself one way or the other. Before closing it up and running the engine I will check it 30 times :laugh:
 

XrunnIT

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its not that bad, there was a video floating of the install that shows you .

I really dont see how it can get screwed up if you mark the link and put the dot back under it and get the alignment pin right.

It really sucks to see Gtmoy have this problem. :thumpdown:

Justin

Are you referring to this vid? I've heard from a few people its not the most helpful, but it will give you an idea. :top:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YmwXtpukhFU
 

5000XD

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I dont really understand why you need them both on top at the same time. If the cam gear has the alignment pin, and the target tooth has the dot, why cant you get one on top and swap it, then rotate the engine until the other one comes up and swap that one. I would figure as long as you havv the dot in the new gear in the same place and the dot on the original gear ( under the same link in the chain), then it shouldnt matter.

I believe that's the whole thing about timing the engine. You need both sides 'timed' in order to have the engine running correctly. Just my thoughts on this.
 

akakrill

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When I did mine, I got dot and the keyhole on the gear to line up with the yellow links on the exhaust chain and the timing marks on my intake cam cover also the crank pulley. But never the orange link on the intake chain. My MKII install has been successful except the intercooler / throttle body tube blew off and I was runing 9.0 afr and the guardian kicked in immediately. I had to re-tighten some hose clamps and suck out some rotrex oil.....Max (WHEN RUNNING) Duh. Very sorry to hear this. Let us know what you need.

What X1 Break in have you all been following? I've given it about 4 hours of drive time without hammering on it. When I start it it will idle a little high then drop down to normal, but from time to time my idle will gurgle or fluxuate and naturally idles higher when my efan kicks on. My AFR runs around high 13 to low 14's until I give it gas she levels out at 14.6 - 14.8. I see 11's and 12's at boost. Stage II
 

My68ur8trd

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I believe that's the whole thing about timing the engine. You need both sides 'timed' in order to have the engine running correctly. Just my thoughts on this.

you do, but the fact that there is a keyway ( alignment pin) and a dot, means they only go on one way.

all you are doing is making sure you put the new gear in the same chain links as the original one

Gadget clarified it :top:

Justin

When I did mine, I got dot and the keyhole on the gear to line up with the yellow links on the exhaust chain and the timing marks on my intake cam cover also the crank pulley. But never the orange link on the intake chain. My MKII install has been successful except the intercooler / throttle body tube blew off and I was runing 9.0 afr and the guardian kicked in immediately. I had to re-tighten some hose clamps and suck out some rotrex oil.....Max (WHEN RUNNING) Duh. Very sorry to hear this. Let us know what you need.

What X1 Break in have you all been following? I've given it about 4 hours of drive time without hammering on it. When I start it it will idle a little high then drop down to normal, but from time to time my idle will gurgle or fluxuate and naturally idles higher when my efan kicks on. My AFR runs around high 13 to low 14's until I give it gas she levels out at 14.6 - 14.8. I see 11's and 12's at boost. Stage II



mine holds 11.2 all the way to redline on both banks.

I have had the same idle gurgles that you had, but I put 1000 miles on mine so far and most of those hiccups and smoothed out. The only issues I ever see are in situations like pulling up my driveway to the garage ( steep driveway). you slip the clutch a little as you roll up the hill, so its high load, then one little rev to the garage and when it flattens out and drops from say 2500 or so back to idle ,its loaded up a little and will stumble and recover .

When you move to large injectors, they are less stable at low pulse widths, which would only be noticable at idle.

Justin
 
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5000XD

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all you are doing is making sure you put the new gear in the same chain links as the original one

Plus the chain needs to sit correctly, crank pulley '0 and all other marks alligned.....correct me if I'm wrong but that's what I understand out of it. By the way Gadget told me that the OEM cam gear has a dot also?
 

akakrill

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Plus the chain needs to sit correctly, crank pulley '0 and all other marks alligned.....correct me if I'm wrong but that's what I understand out of it. By the way Gadget told me that the OEM cam gear has a dot also?

That is correct and yes the stock cam have a dot too. I found it much easier to set up the timing with the notches and yellow link marks, along with the crank pulley. I must of spun the motor around a hundred times about a 1/2 hour ,looking for the color pattern on the chains that I never found.
 

5000XD

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That is correct and yes the stock cam have a dot too. I found it much easier to set up the timing with the notches and yellow link marks, along with the crank pulley. I must of spun the motor around a hundred times about a 1/2 hour ,looking for the color pattern on the chains that I never found.

Oke, good to know that too :top:
 

blackx-runner

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That is correct and yes the stock cam have a dot too. I found it much easier to set up the timing with the notches and yellow link marks, along with the crank pulley. I must of spun the motor around a hundred times about a 1/2 hour ,looking for the color pattern on the chains that I never found.

i did the same thing... then called up gadget and he sorted everything out for me
 

gtmoy

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I'm going to do the timing gears on an engine stand. I told Scott he could use any of the 10s of pictures I sent him already of me doing the install. I intend to fully document the install of the cam gears on an engine stand if anyone is interested. Hopefully my mistake can benefit others. I will definitely take a bunch of pics once finished and send them to Scott to confirm and turn over the engine a couple times on the stand and recheck the timing. Maybe if Jason is here, I'll have him take a gander too!

To anyone I have scared off from doing the install, don't be. I started off where you are and went in whole hog on this project. My mantra was: "I'll install it until I can not physically do it, and if I get stuck, I'll have it towed to a mechanic."

<Soapbox>
My parents came to America in the late 60's and my dad didn't speak any english and my mom barely spoke english. They had $50 in their pocket and 2 suitcases of clothes. Today through their perseverance, they are making my annual college degree salary every two months. Growing up every time I thought something was impossible, my dad would still try and when we failed we got help.
</soapbox>

Now that said, the cam gear installation is intimidating, but read the instructions, and then again, and then again until you can visualize the install in your mind. And by all means call Gadget or Scott. The last time I did the install, every step I took, I called scott and sent him a picture and that was at HIS request.

Have a buddy if possible. I know I now have the worst rep for installing the X-1, but if you're in central TX, I am, and I am sure a number of us wouldn't mind driving out to be a second set of hands or eyes.

I feel really dumb because I ruined a $14k engine, but at the same time, at least I can say I tried. And lucky for me I am getting a motor that probably still has the factory oil in it (1,599 miles) for a song.

I'll stop preaching, but I just think it's important for people to trust in themselves and push their limits. Maybe I pushed mine too far...just don't short change yourself
 

DERRIXRYD

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I would surely screw this one up.... ah close enough just throw it in so we can...blaaah. :laugh:
 
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