How to remove TRD supercharger for plug swap?

[Ostrichsak]

I've searched and can't seem to find a write up on how to remove the s/c to get to the passenger plugs in order to change them. Strange because I can find detailed write-ups on doing plugs w/o a s/c which seems pretty straight forward but not quite the same w/a supercharger. I read something about unbolting the intercooler and letting it hang and when you unbolt the s/c just move them both to the side to keep from having to disconnect the supply lines.

Anything I should know or just start unbolting? 14mm ratchet on the tensioner nut and then CW or CCW to loosen (I found conflicting information on this step) the belt and I'm guessing I don't have to remove entirely, just from the s/c pulley and use something to hold it tight but out of the way so I don't have to mess with re-routing? What size bolts am I looking for, how many and what is the torque specs for them when I'm done? I just don't want to unbolt a bunch of stuff I don't have to trying to get this thing off. I'm fairly mechanically inclined with plenty of tools but my truck was already s/c'd when I bought it so I don't have any experience with installing it to draw from. Maybe once I look it over it's pretty obvious but I just wanted to make sure I've got my ducks in a row before I get started.

I'm going a smaller pulley at the same time so I'll being doing the steps required to change that out too.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Ostrichsak]

Looks like you remove the throttle body from the s/c but make sure to not disconnect the lines (coolant) and just let it sit there. There are six bolts that hold the s/c to the lower intake manifold. Any other tips or pointers would be appreciated. Till need torque specs for the 6 bolts that hold the s/c body to the lower intake but I'm guessing maybe 15-20ft lbs.

 

[Super Werty]

Looks like you remove the throttle body from the s/c but make sure to not disconnect the lines (coolant) and just let it sit there. There are six bolts that hold the s/c to the lower intake manifold. Any other tips or pointers would be appreciated. Till need torque specs for the 6 bolts that hold the s/c body to the lower intake but I'm guessing maybe 15-20ft lbs.

sounds like your doing ok so far.

unbolt the intercooler and lay it on the drivers side....i usually layed a towel on the battery and rested it there

unbolt the throttle body and it will just hoover right there.

and while your doing all that...remove the coolant lines going into the throttle body....take some heat out of the TB

 

[Ostrichsak]

sounds like your doing ok so far.

unbolt the intercooler and lay it on the drivers side....i usually layed a towel on the battery and rested it there

unbolt the throttle body and it will just hoover right there.

and while your doing all that...remove the coolant lines going into the throttle body....take some heat out of the TB

I've done that on past vehicles but we've got emissions once again in this county so I could pass a visual inspection so I think I'll just leave them and convince myself that warming up 3 seconds sooner on cold Colorado winter nights is worth the added power-robbing heat. :laugh:

 

[Super Werty]

I've done that on past vehicles but we've got emissions once again in this county so I could pass a visual inspection so I think I'll just leave them and convince myself that warming up 3 seconds sooner on cold Colorado winter nights is worth the added power-robbing heat. :laugh:

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/engine-performance/45919-diy-throttle-body-bypass.html

there is no way this would get caught at emissions. I've been in 0* weather and never had an issue

 

[Whitebeauty]

What? Why r u removing the blower to get to the plugs? U don't have to remove it to access the spark plugs.

 

[Ostrichsak]

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/engine-performance/45919-diy-throttle-body-bypass.html

there is no way this would get caught at emissions. I've been in 0* weather and never had an issue

That's not true and you need to be careful what you suggest people do as emissions are different from county to county and state to state and what may or may not fly at yours may not be the same as others. The purpose of this feature is to warm the intake charge to help decrease the emissions your vehicle creates prior to reaching it's operating temperature. Most emission control not only test the levels of various noxious gases emitted from your exhaust but they also do a visual inspection to make sure that all emission control features are present and working. If they look at your throttle body and see two vacuum line caps where there should be coolant lines this will be a pretty obvious fail. I've done this modification on vehicles in the past and can tell you that the performance realized is negligible and not worth the effort. The guy in that thread says that having it connected 'greatly hinders performance' and I can tell you that this isn't the case. I've actually dyno tested before and after if you see 1hp on a dyno count yourself lucky. This means that real world gains are, as I stated, negligible and there are far better ways to get power that don't potentially violate local emissions laws. Thanks for the suggestion but I'll keep mine right where it is.

What? Why r u removing the blower to get to the plugs? U don't have to remove it to access the spark plugs.

Everything I read says it's difficult to access the plugs with the s/c in place and it's actually quicker/easier to just pull it to make plug access easier thereby making the entire process quicker & easier. I'm doing a pulley change anyway so since I have to pull the belt it seems it's only a few more steps to go ahead and pop the s/c while I've got the belt off to do the plugs too.

 

[Torspd]

I've bypassed mine. I don't live in a cold climate. No inspection place has ever cared here in my city. Why remove it? Because it adds addition heat to the already fairly warm boost air. Every little bit of extra cooling, or lack of heat saturation helps.

Extra bonus: makes it much less of a mess and makes it much quicker when you remove the upper plenum. And I have to many hash marks to tell how many times mine has been off .

If any emissions place actually cared about those hoses, easy fix. Do at your own discretion. Definitely not a new mod.

 

[Gadget]

The coolant going to the throttle valve is not for when it is cold out, it is for when it is hot and humid.

The idea is to prevent ice from forming and jamming the throttle.

Ice can't form when it is cold because cold air does not hold sufficient water vapor, warm humid air does.

The air temp can drop 50 degrees or more as it passes the throttle blade at low power settings and ice can form if there is moister in the air.

The is not an emissions thing, it is a safety thing.

G

 

[Super Werty]

lol, well do whatever you want. It was only a suggestion.

 

[Bulldogger]

What? Why r u removing the blower to get to the plugs? U don't have to remove it to access the spark plugs.

Now be specific and tell him how you do it:top:

 

[Torspd]

Well. Never had ice. If i did, it melted. Original at 122k and still works better than sdxrunner's noisy TB did. Lol

 

[Whitebeauty]

Now be specific and tell him how you do it:top:

lol... the best way it worked for me was using 2 3in extensions. the reason for this when u pull the plug out with a SPARK PLUG SOCKET u can remove one of the extensions to pull it out. Its quite simple actually all you need is a 3/8 drive ratchet 2, 3/8 drive 3in extensions and a 3/8 drive spark plug socket the smaller one not the 5/8th one. give it a whirl you'll see. Plus one of the biggest things u dont want to chance is when your seating the I/C cover on and you pinch the o ring between the case and the cover cuz it moved on ya.
Try it out you'll see i thought the same thing till i tried it.


Oh yeah a 10mm socket to get the coil packs out.

 

[Ostrichsak]

lol... the best way it worked for me was using 2 3in extensions. the reason for this when u pull the plug out with a SPARK PLUG SOCKET u can remove one of the extensions to pull it out. Its quite simple actually all you need is a 3/8 drive ratchet 2, 3/8 drive 3in extensions and a 3/8 drive spark plug socket the smaller one not the 5/8th one. give it a whirl you'll see. Plus one of the biggest things u dont want to chance is when your seating the I/C cover on and you pinch the o ring between the case and the cover cuz it moved on ya.
Try it out you'll see i thought the same thing till i tried it.


Oh yeah a 10mm socket to get the coil packs out.

Getting ready to attempt this. I can see where I can get to the front two plugs under the s/c but what about the one closest the cab? I'm worried most about starting the new plug w/o cross threading more than anything. Looks like you have to reach behind the bracket to get to it and will be doing it almost blind. Any tips for this part?

Also, you say 'not the 5/8" plug socket... why is that? I pulled out my 5/8" plug socket and it fits one of the new plugs perfectly. To me this seems like the right socket but I'm curious what you meant by this before I start here.

 

[hottacoX]

Take a 12mm and remove the bracket,

 

[Whitebeauty]

Take a 12mm and remove the bracket,

BAM!!!!! There u go. Use whichever socket fits in there to get em out.

 

[Ostrichsak]

Take a 12mm and remove the bracket,

Roger that. Passenger side is done. As expected it took about 10min total. Now to tackle the driver's side. I tested the passenger side with the same 3" extensions I planned to use and on a couple of occasions the socket stayed on the plug rather than pulling out with the extension. I've got a few better extensions (socket pulled right out after plug was set) but they start at 5" so I hope I don't run into issues getting the socket back out. Only one way to find out.

Here we go....

BAM!!!!! There u go. Use whichever socket fits in there to get em out.

It was your standard 5/8" plug socket that's why I was a bit cornfused by your post earlier. Glad I changed them though because the plugs that came out were shite. Autolite APP 5325 with red insulators at the base of the electrode (probably just indicates fuel additives that the previous owner may have used) and the gaps had grown to nearly 2x the proper gap. I couldn't measure because my gapper doesn't go thick enough but I just eyeballed that 2x guestimate. They were pretty dark from carbon deposits too so I'm hoping the new plugs yield better mpg, safer/higher power production & the piece of mind of knowing what plugs are in there now.

 

[Whitebeauty]

What did u go with.. txt me if u like.

 

[Ostrichsak]

What did u go with.. txt me if u like.

I'm about this close --><-- to going with pulling the supercharger. I'm trying to work on the one furthest from the cab that looks like the easiest and I don't seem to be able to even get that one which I can see. The other two are further back and I'm pretty sure I'd be working blind on those. I have large hands and I don't know if that's the issue I'm having or not. I have to take the belt off since I'm doing a pulley swap too so I may just say piss on it and pull the s/c itself to make life easier. I've got the belt off and it looks like a couple 12mm bolts for the top part of the two brackets on the driver's side, four bolts for the throttle body and then 12ish bolts holding the top of the s/c on and then I think 6 underneath to take the s/c itself off. I see a couple of vaccum lines and then the lines for the intercooler reservoir which I think I can just hang off to the side maybe. I feel like I'm putting more effort into not putting in effort if that makes sense. I feel like I've got a LOT of hoses, brackets and other things in my way and even if I move those I've got the distance to the s/c as well as changing plugs blindly. I dunno but I'm not overly confident with this approach right now.