Grumpy
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If you drive the truck the way she should be driven, its a common knowledge around these part of town that our oil pan is very shallow. That put your engine at risk of oil starvation when your fun-o-meter start moving toward the good part. 5 years ago, it wasn't a known problem so I got to learn it the hard way . . . and believe me when I tell you this, you do not want to go through what I went through. :ahhhhh::argh:
To help prevent this, you need Coupe oil pan spacer. Not want, need. Much much cheaper than the short block / used engine by a good margin. The spacer add one more inch of oil above the pick up in an effort to prevent oil starvation. Are you still with me? Good, than read on. For those who thinks the stock oil pan is "good enough", move along, this thread is not for you.
I'll try to be as brief as I can to minimize reading. On with the story . . .
Bought Coupe oil pan spacer about a year ago, TexFest '11, after winning Coupe's gift certificate from the raffle. I figure that's a sign, its been something I wanted for quite a while anyways. Got spacer in hand, but never quite had the time to install it. The beautiful CNC piece sat in the garage for about a year.
Coupe's deep sump billet pan is what I really wanted, its a bit out of my budget so I got the next best thing. While its very effective at preventing the oil starvation issue in high cornering load for extended period of time, I wanted more. I need an extra assurance beyond having the oil pick up tube being deeper in the oil. To control the oil movement in the pan. To minimize sloshing where it count the most, near the oil pick up. After much research of all the different way to combat this problem, I decided on a design that will be most effective and easiest to implement for our application.
Fast forward to 2012, December to be exact. A few local members are heading out to a track day / charity event.
As you can see, MotorSport Ranch Houston have a nice carousel that could potentially cause oil starvation. The event ran counter-clockwise.
Driving the XR on a real road course has always been something I wanted to do, its time get her prep! Not wanting to have any potential oiling issue, now is the time to put in the oil pan spacer . . . but first it have to be modded.
The spacer look good on the upper oil pan sub-assembly. You do not need to take out the sub-assembly, Mark (Torspd) have a spare on laying around and was kind enough to let me borrow it for mock up. Thanks dude! :rockon:
Poster board from ninety nine cent store.
After a quick trace, scissor got to work.
To keep oil from coming up the wall during lateral G, the perimeter is blocked. For drainage, channel is added. 1" channel should be good enough . . .
Having the it be in the middle also benefit from the wall right above it. Oil slosh around while truck is moving, hit the wall, drop into the channel. That's my theory and I'm sticking with it.
Add: Notice the area around the middle of the upper oil pan assembly where its showing darker brown color. That is where the oil sit at the full mark on the dip stick.
Radius the corner for more flow. Extra clearance is added around oil pick up tube in case it need to be taken out, so you don't have to remover the spacer. A lot less headache should problem arise.
1" channel should be more than enough to keep lower pan full, but to hell with it, let's make 1.5" instead for more flow! :laugh:
Note the wall right above drain channel.
Satisfied with the design, time to turn that poster board into metal. Its was done "quick & dirty" in the garage with minimal tools so fitment is not as tight as I would've like.
Decided to put a bent in the middle to promote drainage. Our hometwon turbo kit builder & TIG welder extraordinaire Alex (SIK X) join the two pieces. :rockon:
How it look like before being covered up.
With TRD oil filter, 6.5 quart will take you to the full mark on the dip stick with the engine off. For sh!ts & giggles, I check the oil with engine running to see how far the oil level drop with the engine running. It read about 1/4 - 1/3 on the dip stick. Not wanting to carry half a bottle of oil around, I just pour it in so it reading about 3/4 on the stick engine running . . . or about 1/4 pass full with engine off.
Having a full 7 quarts in the pan put my mind at ease when I take her out for some exercise. :driver: Something I should've done a long time ago.
If you're running a stock oil pan, I would highly recommend doing the full 5 quarts fill up when changing oil. Some oil jugs are 5 liters (5.283 quarts), put the whole thing in! This should be just a hair above full mark with engine off. The oil level will be approximately 2" below rotating assembly so it won't get get agitate and aerate the oil.
Sorry for the long post, thank you for reading. :smile:
To help prevent this, you need Coupe oil pan spacer. Not want, need. Much much cheaper than the short block / used engine by a good margin. The spacer add one more inch of oil above the pick up in an effort to prevent oil starvation. Are you still with me? Good, than read on. For those who thinks the stock oil pan is "good enough", move along, this thread is not for you.
I'll try to be as brief as I can to minimize reading. On with the story . . .
Bought Coupe oil pan spacer about a year ago, TexFest '11, after winning Coupe's gift certificate from the raffle. I figure that's a sign, its been something I wanted for quite a while anyways. Got spacer in hand, but never quite had the time to install it. The beautiful CNC piece sat in the garage for about a year.
Coupe's deep sump billet pan is what I really wanted, its a bit out of my budget so I got the next best thing. While its very effective at preventing the oil starvation issue in high cornering load for extended period of time, I wanted more. I need an extra assurance beyond having the oil pick up tube being deeper in the oil. To control the oil movement in the pan. To minimize sloshing where it count the most, near the oil pick up. After much research of all the different way to combat this problem, I decided on a design that will be most effective and easiest to implement for our application.
Fast forward to 2012, December to be exact. A few local members are heading out to a track day / charity event.
As you can see, MotorSport Ranch Houston have a nice carousel that could potentially cause oil starvation. The event ran counter-clockwise.
Driving the XR on a real road course has always been something I wanted to do, its time get her prep! Not wanting to have any potential oiling issue, now is the time to put in the oil pan spacer . . . but first it have to be modded.
The spacer look good on the upper oil pan sub-assembly. You do not need to take out the sub-assembly, Mark (Torspd) have a spare on laying around and was kind enough to let me borrow it for mock up. Thanks dude! :rockon:
Poster board from ninety nine cent store.
After a quick trace, scissor got to work.
To keep oil from coming up the wall during lateral G, the perimeter is blocked. For drainage, channel is added. 1" channel should be good enough . . .
Having the it be in the middle also benefit from the wall right above it. Oil slosh around while truck is moving, hit the wall, drop into the channel. That's my theory and I'm sticking with it.
Add: Notice the area around the middle of the upper oil pan assembly where its showing darker brown color. That is where the oil sit at the full mark on the dip stick.
Radius the corner for more flow. Extra clearance is added around oil pick up tube in case it need to be taken out, so you don't have to remover the spacer. A lot less headache should problem arise.
1" channel should be more than enough to keep lower pan full, but to hell with it, let's make 1.5" instead for more flow! :laugh:
Note the wall right above drain channel.
Satisfied with the design, time to turn that poster board into metal. Its was done "quick & dirty" in the garage with minimal tools so fitment is not as tight as I would've like.
Decided to put a bent in the middle to promote drainage. Our hometwon turbo kit builder & TIG welder extraordinaire Alex (SIK X) join the two pieces. :rockon:
How it look like before being covered up.
With TRD oil filter, 6.5 quart will take you to the full mark on the dip stick with the engine off. For sh!ts & giggles, I check the oil with engine running to see how far the oil level drop with the engine running. It read about 1/4 - 1/3 on the dip stick. Not wanting to carry half a bottle of oil around, I just pour it in so it reading about 3/4 on the stick engine running . . . or about 1/4 pass full with engine off.
Having a full 7 quarts in the pan put my mind at ease when I take her out for some exercise. :driver: Something I should've done a long time ago.
If you're running a stock oil pan, I would highly recommend doing the full 5 quarts fill up when changing oil. Some oil jugs are 5 liters (5.283 quarts), put the whole thing in! This should be just a hair above full mark with engine off. The oil level will be approximately 2" below rotating assembly so it won't get get agitate and aerate the oil.
Sorry for the long post, thank you for reading. :smile:
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