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Powersteering and Injector Fluid

JakeX

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I took my truck to a local place my family goes to get their oil changed, and they changed it in about an hour, and the guy told me i needed quote "a new powersteering and injector fluid"
That is exactly what he said. So i asked how much will it cost me and he said 90 bucks each, and 10% off of that since i just got my oil changed (lol)

when he told me that i thought to myself i could probably go buy the fluids and change it for a heck of a lot cheaper. Does 90 bucks each for new fluids sound reasonable? it didnt sound reasonable at all to me, i just want a second opinion. Thanks doods!!:crinklehair::smile::biggrin::top::hmmmm2:
 

Murderface

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I highly doubt u need to replace ur steering fluid with the year u have. Maybe brake fluid but not steering. To check brake fluid for contaminents and brass(or copper can't rember which one) u can pick up test strips from an auto parts store.

As far as injector fluid did he mean an injector flush( they use better more harmful chemicals to clean them out) I would jus get a $10 bottle of Lucas oil injector cleaner. Put I think it's 4-5.5 oz before each fill up until the big bottle is empty. Lucas injector cleaner also lowers the octane demand which will help if u get lower then advertised octane gas
 

XRYDER

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You only need to check brake fluid for water content. Any thing over 2% water and i would recommend a flush.
I have never heard of "injector fluid". Maybe the tech meant injector flush.
 

Murderface

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You only need to check brake fluid for water content. Any thing over 2% water and i would recommend a flush.
I have never heard of "injector fluid". Maybe the tech meant injector flush.

I think u need to go back to school bro on the brake fluid issue. Water is not the only thing u check for:top:
 

X-roller

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.....hmmm...well to my knowledge...I'm an automotive tech and we recommend fluid exchange on power steering when we can see some grey or silver color start to show or if it just looks downright dirty!!...if it's pretty black I would recommend doing it.

DO IT yourself though...it's quite simple....just dump it out and fill it up its as simple as that.
 
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Grumpy

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I change my injector fluid all the time, it cost $2.39 a gallon down at the local station.:laugh:

As for the powersteering fluid, there's no change interval perse. Some change it and some don't botther. Since most of the fluid got drain out when installing NST PS pulley, perfect opportunity to put some fresh fluid in there. 2 birds with 1 stone = win!
 

X-roller

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that's pretty cheap injector fluid...mine cost about 2.55 a gallon at the local gas station!! :thumpdown: lucky!!
 

XRYDER

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I think u need to go back to school bro on the brake fluid issue. Water is not the only thing u check for:top:


Brakes were covered in first year and i'm a fourth year tech now. I must have forgotten what else you look for, besides moisture content. Perhaps you can enlighten me/us.
 

Murderface

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Brakes were covered in first year and i'm a fourth year tech now. I must have forgotten what else you look for, besides moisture content. Perhaps you can enlighten me/us.

I have no problem givin some newer techs much needed info. I'm glad you asked so here it is:

Copper has a direct role in the corrosion of the brake system, as well as providing an indirect relationship to the age of the brake fluid. In a NIST report, Ricker et al hypothesize "the copper in the brake lines corrodes at a slow rate over several months or years resulting in copper ions in the brake fluid. These ions then act as oxidizers and plate out in the ABS valves when the corrosion inhibitors can no longer prevent corrosion of the ferrous components. According to this hypothesis, copper corrosion starts when the vehicle is new and proceeds at a rate that is limited by the oxidizer content of the brake fluid, mass transport of this oxidizer, and the effectiveness of the corrosion inhibitors in the brake fluid at retarding copper corrosion." Copper is the first or "Alpha Contaminate" and will corrode before other metals in brake system according to Ricker because "even though copper is in galvanic contact with more active metals, the low conductivity of the brake fluid allows copper corrosion to proceed." You might ask how does copper get in the brake fluid? The answer is from the brake lines. The inside surface of the brake lines is coated with a copper brazing alloy.

I've been a tech on various machines thru out my illustrious career(car tech for C/J/E for 4 yrs....F-15 crew chief for 4 yrs and now a diesel tech for the past 9 yrs)

it's cool if u don't know about some thing but to call someone out that's been doin it for over 18 yrs is dumb.

I hope this info squares this topic up:top:
 

XRYDER

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Just asked you for more info, wasn't calling you out. Telling me to go back to school and calling me "dumb" is a little uncalled for. Anyhow, would you not agree that water content (in terms of boiling point and corrosion) would be a much more important and common test than testing for copper? High water content can occur quickly in humid climates. The copper content would take much, much longer to contaminate the system. I've never tested fluid for copper, how do you do it?
 

Murderface

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Just asked you for more info, wasn't calling you out. Telling me to go back to school and calling me "dumb" is a little uncalled for. Anyhow, would you not agree that water content (in terms of boiling point and corrosion) would be a much more important and common test than testing for copper? High water content can occur quickly in humid climates. The copper content would take much, much longer to contaminate the system. I've never tested fluid for copper, how do you do it?

here u go:top:

The only brake fluid test strip currently on the market is not even designed to test for water, so there is literally no comparison. BrakeStrip™ or StripDip® test strips use FASCAR® technology and are designed first and foremost to test for copper in brake fluid. FASCAR® means copper test.
Boiling point testers measure water in brake fluid. FASCAR® test strips measure for signs of internal ABS corrosion in the form of suspended copper ions in brake fluid. The reason u test for COPPER is the brake lines are lined with COPPER:top:
But I wouldnt say testing for water is more common because most people dont know how to test for water in the system but rather buy the strips and test for COPPER. Techs test for water and copper:top:

These were mentioned in my first post I also NEVER called u dumb! just dumb comments
 
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X-roller

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Well since you guys started to go off topic...Brake fluid is only changed when the "Dipstrip" doesn't pass the inspection....It means it's contaminated...so water would not be a factor in contamination....it's so it doesn't wear and tear that much more on your brake lines...the worse your brake fluid is contaminated...the even more wear it will have on your brake lines.....basically change it when it gets really dark....you don't even need a dip strip for it....simple as that.
 

Murderface

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Do u know what water does to the fluid?

And how come theres always an ECHO after I take the time to explain something:dontknow:

I'll just keep my mouth shut, cause what do I know?
 

X-roller

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Do u know what water does to the fluid?

And how come theres always an ECHO after I take the time to explain something:dontknow:

I'll just keep my mouth shut, cause what do I know?

yes....and water is the least of your worries though....If you keep your fluid in there long enough to where it gets to much "water" then you will more than likely have to replace your brake lines by then because they will be close to breaking or by now leaking.... When the fluid gets to contaminated is when you should change it due to the brake lines breaking down and contaminating it....It's not an echo...everyone can get stuff off of the internet but if you would break it down to simple terms so everyone knows what you are talking about then you wouldn't have to repeat yourself. Your explanation is good for those that are experienced in this field but bad for those who are not....you will just keep repeating yourself till you just get aggravated with the situation and give up...just say what you mean in a way that everyone understands.
 
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