I can almost swear my engine is now building up boost earlier than before! Though the maximum boost is the same, it is definitely building it earlier. I feel the car much more lively than before after the bullet cars bracket installation. Also the engine is visiting higher boost zones at lower RPM in the MAP-ECU3. I'm not sure what gives, I think the lighter crankshaft pulley may have something to do with it, but also I think with the previous setup there might have been some pulleys that were having some resistance. I sure am happy now. Finally my efforts are paying off.
Re-Installing My Supercharger
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Redlantern
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Post some videos!
Not gone yet. I went to another town yesterday 100 Km away, so 200 km, no problems at all. I've done this trip many times with the SC on, even in the old setup.
I'll be going tomorrow to Riyadh, which is as far as Kuwait. I'm very confident it will be just fine.
I'll be going tomorrow to Riyadh, which is as far as Kuwait. I'm very confident it will be just fine.
I went to Riyadh and back, 800 Kms combined, not a hint of a problem, other than minor fine-tuning the fuel map here and there.
Going on the first off-road trip next week-end, 1,000 Km round trip, plus some off-road use and some sand driving. This will put it to some test. I'm hoping to get some videos on this trip.
Going on the first off-road trip next week-end, 1,000 Km round trip, plus some off-road use and some sand driving. This will put it to some test. I'm hoping to get some videos on this trip.
Good idea to move the catch can discussion here, instead of hijacking the other thread. I think I am going to hook up the other head breather to my catch can and put the check valve back on. I'm looking for a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer, so I can compelete the job. I would like to do it before I go on the trip this weekend.
$380 just for a cable?!!!! What the heck!
$380 just for a cable?!!!! What the heck!
Man, that check valve is of really bad quality. It can't hold boost.
I have done the setup you recommended, Torspd, but instead of the breather on the catch can I hooked it into my intake plenum with the check valve to prevent boost from going into my crank case and pressurizing it. To my disappointment, it was not able to prevent boost from going through into the catch can and crank case. On the one trip I did after it, my crank case got pressurized and oil started leaking out of my valve covers and causing a mess, and I lost 0.1 bar of boost. So I immediately reverted the setup back to standard, while parked at my work parking lots.
I will put that setup back again, but I will use a proper check valve from Elite Engineering, the same brand as my catch can. This one:
So here's what I did:
I made up a hose reducer, from 1/2 inch to 3/8 inch:
Y-fitting to connect the new hose to the intake port:
I have done the setup you recommended, Torspd, but instead of the breather on the catch can I hooked it into my intake plenum with the check valve to prevent boost from going into my crank case and pressurizing it. To my disappointment, it was not able to prevent boost from going through into the catch can and crank case. On the one trip I did after it, my crank case got pressurized and oil started leaking out of my valve covers and causing a mess, and I lost 0.1 bar of boost. So I immediately reverted the setup back to standard, while parked at my work parking lots.
I will put that setup back again, but I will use a proper check valve from Elite Engineering, the same brand as my catch can. This one:
So here's what I did:
I made up a hose reducer, from 1/2 inch to 3/8 inch:
Y-fitting to connect the new hose to the intake port:
Made the caving trip and back with the Fortuner with zero issues. Some mild sand driving and a lot of gravel and corrugated high speed runs. 120 Km off-road and 800 km on-road. The supercharger held up beautifully. My confidence is up several levels.
That dark Land Cruiser has the Mighty twin-turbo V8 diesel in it, with a manual transmission. My dream car.
That dark Land Cruiser has the Mighty twin-turbo V8 diesel in it, with a manual transmission. My dream car.
Redlantern
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Damn. Look at all that open space you could play in! Wish we had that here. Nice photos too. It Looks super hot there lol. Thank for the vid. I'm glad you got your catch can figured out. I'm running mine the same way as well with no problems.
Yes, it feels like Mars. Literally. Not that I've been to Mars, but I think it does. No life, nothing, just plain open spaces. Then you stumble upon those amazing and massive underground caves.
I find that I get a lot of engine oil smell with this catch can setup. I am thinking of using a hose to relocate the crank case breather to vent to someplace where I can't smell it.
I actually owe Torspd an apology, the pressurizing of the crank case was not due to the failure of the check valve, as I thought initially. It was a result of improperly routing the vent. At WOT, the intake boost is keeping the check valve closed, while the crank case is trying to push air through into the intake to relieve pressure, but because of boost the check valve was closed shut resulting in a pressurized crank case.
Elite Engineering recommends connecting both exit ports (my catch can has two exit ports, one of them is closed). One that goes to the intake plenum post-throttle body, and the other goes to the supercharger inlet, pre-supercharger. Both lines should be equipped with a check valve. What happens is the exiting air alternates between the two, when there is vacuum it will be going into the intake, and when there is boost the supercharger would be doing a lot of sucktion creating some vacuum, and at that point the air would vent to the inlet of the supercharger. Apparently doing only one without the other will result in a pressurized crank case.
I'm surprised at how much piston blow by there is, I didn't think it is that excessive. I'm sure it isn't worn piston rings, because I'm not losing engine oil at all.
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For my catch can routing, I have always had the idea of putting a filter on the passenger valve cover. The a hose from the driver valve cover into the can. Then the outlet all the way to the inlet silicone of the turbo. Then it'd always be under suction.
Yes, that's exactly what I did, except I routed both valve covers into the can, but it somehow resulted in a pressurized crank case. Really puzzled me.
Yes, it is actually a very deep cave, and then expands horizontally covering a large area. Here's a picture from the inside:
Sooooo ... Winter is here! And the engine feels sooooo much more powerful in the Winter. I am almost doubting the need to increase the power now.
Until a couple of nights ago.
A friend with a Nissan Armada said the Armada feels stronger. So I decided this is unacceptable. I have to be on par or better than a Nissan Armada. So I'm going to go for the next stage. But not until March or April, when Winter is over and I've done some miles on the current setup. I have a LOT of weight on my truck, so considering all the weight I think the performance is more than acceptable, but if I can make more, why not?
I got the 80 mm pulley from Najm in Kuwait, and I got an AEM 320 LPH fuel pump sitting in my shed. Third thing I need is a larger intercooler radiator, which I'll be getting in the coming couple of months. My intake plenum is all set for a LOT more power and heat, with four Laminova cores and air guides, so I should be able to make a lot more power safely. Will be quite an upgrade from my current 90 mm pulley.
In the mean time, I'll enjoy the power and the beautiful weather.
Tom from Bullet Cars said they use an 85 mm pulley in their kit with stock fuel pump and the same Rotrex, and said if I go any smaller I must upgrade the fuel pump. So that is what I will do.
Until a couple of nights ago.
A friend with a Nissan Armada said the Armada feels stronger. So I decided this is unacceptable. I have to be on par or better than a Nissan Armada. So I'm going to go for the next stage. But not until March or April, when Winter is over and I've done some miles on the current setup. I have a LOT of weight on my truck, so considering all the weight I think the performance is more than acceptable, but if I can make more, why not?
I got the 80 mm pulley from Najm in Kuwait, and I got an AEM 320 LPH fuel pump sitting in my shed. Third thing I need is a larger intercooler radiator, which I'll be getting in the coming couple of months. My intake plenum is all set for a LOT more power and heat, with four Laminova cores and air guides, so I should be able to make a lot more power safely. Will be quite an upgrade from my current 90 mm pulley.
In the mean time, I'll enjoy the power and the beautiful weather.
Tom from Bullet Cars said they use an 85 mm pulley in their kit with stock fuel pump and the same Rotrex, and said if I go any smaller I must upgrade the fuel pump. So that is what I will do.
I'm guessing probably more. Usually a one stage pulley upgrade (5 mm smaller) will give 2 PSI. I'm guessing it will go up to 11-12 PSI. I think it is about what this engine can take with proper tuning, before it needs internal components upgrade. And the Rotrex will be spun at its max, maybe a little over-spun at max RPM. So I'll be pushing it.
I'm planning to buy a HiLux single cab some time during next year, so hopefully I should have a backup vehicle should this engine go. Hopefully it wont.
I want to advise anyone against buying those cheap plastic check valves. They can kill your engine, as they were about to hurt mine. They don't flow freely enough to prevent the crank case from pressurizing. I have confirmed that yesterday, I tried one last time to use it by putting it just before the breather on the catch can, and went on a drive. When I returned home, I heard a wistling noise coming from the breather filter. I checked my dip stick, and PFFFF! Air blowing out of there, a sign of pressurized crank case. I put it back on and pulled the check valve out to find a lot of air trapped behind it. Never again. Now I know it caused my rear crankshaft oil seal leak. When I got all pressurized last time, everything was set up properly, the problem was with the check valve. I've always been puzzled what caused it to presurize that day until yesterday.
I'm planning to buy a HiLux single cab some time during next year, so hopefully I should have a backup vehicle should this engine go. Hopefully it wont.
I want to advise anyone against buying those cheap plastic check valves. They can kill your engine, as they were about to hurt mine. They don't flow freely enough to prevent the crank case from pressurizing. I have confirmed that yesterday, I tried one last time to use it by putting it just before the breather on the catch can, and went on a drive. When I returned home, I heard a wistling noise coming from the breather filter. I checked my dip stick, and PFFFF! Air blowing out of there, a sign of pressurized crank case. I put it back on and pulled the check valve out to find a lot of air trapped behind it. Never again. Now I know it caused my rear crankshaft oil seal leak. When I got all pressurized last time, everything was set up properly, the problem was with the check valve. I've always been puzzled what caused it to presurize that day until yesterday.
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If I may make a suggestion which I believe will help, you willing of course.
Have a vacuum hose from your new custom intake manifold, directly to the brake booster. Check valve in line so as not to pressurize the brake booster.
Then route hoses from both valve covers into the catch can. With a breather on the can like in my picture.
Completely separated and independant from any of the charge piping/intake piping. Therefore there would be no possibility of the charge air ever getting into the crank case.
Have a vacuum hose from your new custom intake manifold, directly to the brake booster. Check valve in line so as not to pressurize the brake booster.
Then route hoses from both valve covers into the catch can. With a breather on the can like in my picture.
Completely separated and independant from any of the charge piping/intake piping. Therefore there would be no possibility of the charge air ever getting into the crank case.
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