Tightening up the factory LSD

[darthyota]

I hope you only drive in straight lines. Otherwise I see a broken diff and/or axle in your future.

why i daily drove my last truck for 2 or 3 years with a spool and it was taken off road regularly and beaten and i never once broke the diff or an axle and i had 33's on it :blurock:

 

[LateOnTheBrakes]

why i daily drove my last truck for 2 or 3 years with a spool and it was taken off road regularly and beaten and i never once broke the diff or an axle and i had 33's on it :blurock:

That's good to hear. Sounds like Toyota over-engineered it for us then. I would think with sticky tires and the hard handling these trucks are designed for that a few good full throttle turns would snap something if it was welded.

 

[sdxrunner619]

I hope you only drive in straight lines. Otherwise I see a broken diff and/or axle in your future.

That's good to hear. Sounds like Toyota over-engineered it for us then. I would think with sticky tires and the hard handling these trucks are designed for that a few good full throttle turns would snap something if it was welded.

Yup, I have drvin my truck only in a straightline, to and from college, 50 miles a day, 4 times a week, for one year. 20,000 miles since i did the miller locker. And i never EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, turned the wheel once, in fact, every time i came to a corner, i had to get out, and jack my back axle off the ground, and turn my truck by hand....It was a real pain in traffic. And all those videos of my truck autocrossing, with 275's, doing drag race launches, and drifting where all photoshooooped, cause there is obviously no way to turn with a welded diff, let alone race with one?!?!??! :rofl::rofl::rofl:

Oh God, people like you make me laugh. Are you familiar with what drifter's call a, clutch kick? Yah, probably not. The amount of drive-line strain that happens, when you do that, is worse then any kind of launch you can ever achieve with our trucks, even with drag slicks. Your probably not familiar with the proper way to weld a diff, or what actually happens, when something related to a welded diff, actually fails... Typically, the u joints go, FYI, not the axles or the welds itself, unless your welder sucks, or the person using it does.:top: Hence why i went to shop and paid to have it done. and last but not least, if you actually think i built my truck for the soul purpose of going straight, you sir- nvm, why do i even bother...:rolleyez:

dartyota, dailying with a spool and off road tires must have been expensive:ahhhhh:...my buddy pays over 200 a tire for his 31's...

 

[darthyota]

Haha nope cause my last truck was even lighter then the x and 33's are the cheapest offroad tire for the cost to size ratio

Also keep in mind when it's winter here theres way less traction so I basically got to drift around at will

 

[sdxrunner619]

Haha nope cause my last truck was even lighter then the x and 33's are the cheapest offroad tire for the cost to size ratio

Also keep in mind when it's winter here theres way less traction so I basically got to drift around at will

Oh yah...growing up in San Diego, where winter is 65*, and summer is 75*, I often forget about seasons...:biggrin:

 

[Edgeman]

didnt always do it, it has gradually gotten worse. and yeah I know its weird, the dealer said the same thing, thats why they are just replacing it. it does the opposite of what bad clutches should do, so I dont know.

also get a pretty good drone now from the driveshaft and sometimes it bangs when you go into gear, like a bad u-joint or something.

Did you add the LSD friction modifier to your diff fluid when you changed it? Some fluids don't require it, others do. I changed the diff fluid in a previous Yota truck, and felt what you were describing (the only difference was that mine was in gear). I felt the LSD engaging & disengaging when turning. I added a tube of the LSD additive & it cured the problem.

 

[blueblazeracer]

It will work perfectrly as long as you weld you diff up like this. turns corners great.

 

[sdxrunner619]

It will work perfectrly as long as you weld you diff up like this. turns corners great.

/Doublefacepalm... that just made my night....

 

[LateOnTheBrakes]

It will work perfectrly as long as you weld you diff up like this. turns corners great.

Now that is funny. I only hope they reinstalled it and had to get it towed to a shop to figure out why it wouldn't move.

 

[lvxr]

i know this is an old thread but ive got a couple questions:

1) is it as simple as dissasembly, add shims, reassemble? (are there any reassembly steps that need to be done in a cerftain fashion, i.e. allignment, torque specs)

2) for those that did it, which size AND/OR how many shims did you use for method #1 and/or method #2?

thanks in advance

 

[LateOnTheBrakes]

Depends on what equipment you have and what you consider "simple". Getting the roller taper bearings off the carrier is difficult and they almost always get ****ed up and require new ones. And you aren't getting new ones correctly without a hydraulic press.

 

[lvxr]

well i have access to a hydraulic press, that's no problem.

after 4 run-ins with, "you cant shim it" "we only replace the entire posi-unit" "we stopped doing that" ....i finally found a shop in town that is willing to help me me out with this. they said "we got lots of shims, bring it down and we'll take a look" & "we havent done it before, but if it can be done, we can try"

basically my only question is: what thickness shim do i use for each of the 2 locations?
[my lsd isn't worn to hell, it slides in both directions if im trying, but not so much while turning right.]

im thinking .020"

 

[LateOnTheBrakes]

Not sure on that one. Would have to know the spring rate for the spring in the clutch pack. The initial preload, etc. I'm not sure what other members did, but it will probably be trial and error. They probably recommend the posi replacement because there is a much larger knowledge base and they can get tech support from the guys at Eaton/Detroit. I wouldn't do much more than 0.030" or 0.060". I'd err on the side of caution and go with the smaller value first as too many shims will basically give you a locker under most conditions.