urd lighten flywheel & cc stage 2 reviews.

[RE_TRD_X808]

To the peeps that has this set up. I need some reviews. Pros & Cons?. how many miles you put on it? Thanks in advance:top:

 

[kcidmil]

I'm somewhere around 1500 miles on mine so far.

Pro's -
quicker revs (makes for easier shifting as the motor doesn't stay at high RPM as long and will start falling sooner)
better hold

Con's-
Clutch is noisy at 1200-1500 RPM

I would definitely get the upgraded TO bearing if you can afford it. And be careful during the break in period. I burned mine a little bit, thanks to an idiot driver who decided to ride my ass at a sloped stop light.

 

[x8o8runner2012]

I'm somewhere around 1500 miles on mine so far.

Pro's -
quicker revs (makes for easier shifting as the motor doesn't stay at high RPM as long and will start falling sooner)
better hold

Con's-
Clutch is noisy at 1500-1900 RPM

I would definitely get the upgraded TO bearing if you can afford it. And be careful during the break in period. I burned mine a little bit, thanks to an idiot driver who decided to ride my ass at a sloped stop light.

good to know.....maybe that should be my next upgrade
-branz

 

[justin13703]

I have the urd lightweight flywheel and CC stage 3 clutch, and its definitely a good upgrade. I have about 10-15,000 miles on mine. The clutch grabs hard and once its broken in is very smooth and almost drives like stock. The flywheel itself is what is noisy, under 2k rpms with moderate acceleration it will make a rattle noise. This is normal for lightweight flywheels. And yes, if you can, get the throwout bearing kit too. Before yours starts squeaking lol.

Really I cant think of any cons with this setup. Just let it break in after the install, and it will be fine. And be patient, it will be like driving a different truck after the install, so it may take a few days to get used to it.

 

[kcidmil]

And be patient, it will be like driving a different truck after the install, so it may take a few days to get used to it.

No joke there, I had to change my driving style a lot to avoid the rattle. Much to the ire of my neighborhood because of my exhaust.

btw I changed the RPM range on my earlier post. I keep the RPMs at 1500-2000 to avoid the rattle.

 

[BigFatDogEatingPizza]

One of my friends has the lightened flywheel and the Competition clutch and pressure plate. He has had it for about a month, and he hasn't had any problems with it. He has the stage 3 setup. He had the CC stage 3+, and that lasted his about 9-months.

 

[uh60rotorhead]

I've got the light flywheel and stage two clutch w/ TB upgrade. I'll say that the rattle is much louder in low RPM's. I've got a shudder, which is sometimes significant, while accelerating from a stop. I'm still trying to work the issue, but the shop has stated several times they think the NEW flywheel was warped. I'm having a hard time convincing them to take a look at it to make sure the install was correct.

 

[STONER-X]

i have had my cc-3 and lw-fly for about 40,000 miles now...

yes, there is more noise at low RMP (rattle) it is transmitting engine noise though the light less dampening materiel.. its normal
yes, is does shutter it you don't let off the clutch the "right way".. its normal

you have to get use to it.. its almost learning to drive a clutch again... well its because you are... just like if you get in someone else car and drive...:smile:

it is a great upgrade no complaints..

people claim that you lose off the line power, but its so little it goes unnoticed.. ill just say there is none...

that is my input..

 

[K2]

And be patient, it will be like driving a different truck after the install, so it may take a few days to get used to it.

you have to get use to it.. its almost learning to drive a clutch again... well its because you are... just like if you get in someone else car and drive...:smile:

I agree 100% with this. I'm no great driver but I was comfortable driving a manual transmission. With the new steel lightweight flywheel and stage 2 clutch installed 3-4 weeks ago, I have no idea how to drive my truck. Its a completely new experience and learning process. I feel that I'm getting better at it but it takes a lot of getting used to and with an 8 minute commute to work each day, there's not much time to practice. :smile:

With that said, the clutch/fw combo is AMAZING at speed - you can quick shift the way that the truck SHOULD have shifted stock. This combo also helps the 1st gear slow spool down. Its taken me quite a bit of getting used to shifting at regular driving speeds because the revs drop so quick. I'm not used to having to shift that quickly but I like it and feel its how I should have driven all along but the stock setup is straight bobo.

 

[scoutdeed69]

Ok I see ya'll doing the steel lighten fly wheel...but any of you doing the Aluminium fly wheel? Or just the steel light wieght one? I know the Aluminium is much more in price wise.


If you have a shudder when u drive with the new flywheel...if is warped it can cause a ballance issue for sure... but think of this too...Now the truck is designed with about a 30lb or so flywheel if i'm correct here? Know your going done to a 18lb or 15lb flywheel...that changes the ballancing of the engine mass....Like myself i would look into having you engine internals ballanced with the new flywheel and clutch setup...Only if thats possible to do... You your engine is turning smoothly and your not loosing any HP from it, but yeah its going to cost some money to do this for sure!

Rob....scouts out

 

[RE_TRD_X808]

Thanks for the reviews fellas.. seem like the lighten flywheel cause abit of shutter at low rpm. guess it comes with the territory when it comes to light flywheels. Is anybody running a custom weight flywheel? the description on urd offers custom weights.

 

[JPAYNE722]

Anyone runnen these flywheels wth a stock clutch

 

[justin13703]

Ok I see ya'll doing the steel lighten fly wheel...but any of you doing the Aluminium fly wheel? Or just the steel light wieght one? I know the Aluminium is much more in price wise.


If you have a shudder when u drive with the new flywheel...if is warped it can cause a ballance issue for sure... but think of this too...Now the truck is designed with about a 30lb or so flywheel if i'm correct here? Know your going done to a 18lb or 15lb flywheel...that changes the ballancing of the engine mass....Like myself i would look into having you engine internals ballanced with the new flywheel and clutch setup...Only if thats possible to do... You your engine is turning smoothly and your not loosing any HP from it, but yeah its going to cost some money to do this for sure!

Rob....scouts out

I didnt go with the aluminum one for 3 reasons. I like the strength of steel as compared to aluminum, it just gives me a little more peace of mind. Also, I feel like the alumium one would almost be too light. A little bit of weight is a good thing. But the biggest reason is that the aluminum one has replaceable friction pads, which is nice, but adds a lot more pieces to the flywheel. More pieces means more stuff in there to come loose, break or fail in some way. Even if its not very likely.

The shudder thing, mine shuddered like fvck for a few months after the install. It also would scream at me if I tried to take off from a stop pretty fast. It eventually smoothed out and is like stock now. I dont know if something was out of whack and eventually smoothed out or what, but its absolutely fine now.

 

[scoutdeed69]

I didnt go with the aluminum one for 3 reasons. I like the strength of steel as compared to aluminum, it just gives me a little more peace of mind. Also, I feel like the alumium one would almost be too light. A little bit of weight is a good thing. But the biggest reason is that the aluminum one has replaceable friction pads, which is nice, but adds a lot more pieces to the flywheel. More pieces means more stuff in there to come loose, break or fail in some way. Even if its not very likely.

The shudder thing, mine shuddered like fvck for a few months after the install. It also would scream at me if I tried to take off from a stop pretty fast. It eventually smoothed out and is like stock now. I dont know if something was out of whack and eventually smoothed out or what, but its absolutely fine now.

Thats cool yours worked out for you! Im all about performance for sure! my civic has the fidanza aluminium fly...plus that is a smaller vehicle and smaller motor...but when it comes time to do the trans swap and clutch n fly i will decide which one i will go with...i like to get another motor, and do what G and the other fella's doing on the sleeving the block...IT ONLY COST MONEY...LMAO

Rob...scouts out

 

[K2]

If you decide you want an Aluminum Flywheel, I have one - new in box, never installed - that I could sell for a good price.

 

[SpeedX]

I just did the cc stage 2, steel lightned flywheel and tsk45 upgrade. It definetely feels different, especially coming off 1st gear or reverse. As far as clamping force, you can definetely feel how strong it grabs.

You have to get used to the noise.

The only thing I dislike in changing my stock over to the new clutch is that sometimes the shifter becomes stuck while in first and second, or will not go into first or second gear.

I am about to change over to redline Mt90 and see if that helps or not.

For those that have change the clutch/flywheel and tsk45; did you have engament issues in first or second during the breaking period. I have put about 560 miles since install. Is this normal?

I did not have this issue with my stock clutch, and therefore, I hope is not my transmission.

 

[Gadget]

Did you properly adjust the clutch release point after the installation?

G

 

[SpeedX]

Did you properly adjust the clutch release point after the installation?

G

No I did not, please school me on this procedure. Thank you.

 

[Gadget]

It sounds like you do not have enough release set in the system.

There is a push rod on the clutch pedal.

Adjust it so that the friction point is about 1/3 of the way up from the floor.

Make sure you can engage 1st while sitting still and the vehicle does not creep in first while sitting still. You don't want any drag on the clutch putting rotation into the transmission when the clutch is all the way to the floor.

G

 

[burnboy]

The rattle should be in neutral at idle. It's a single mass flywheel I'm sure which is vs. a dual mass flywheel which I assume is the stock setup. That's why it rattles because there is no dampening of a dual mass flywheel