Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

Very confused

baghramdunks

New Member
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
53
Reaction score
0
I've been searching for info on XRU for a couple of days now but being a noob to modding really has its limits. I've read about coils, blocks, and monoleafs. So far I've figured that the monoleafs are better than blocks so I'm think of going that route and the coils/springs are for the front? Can anybody help educate me on this? I just want to be able to drop my X 2" in the front and 3" in the rear? and which do most use XII Perf or DJM?

Thnx for all the help I really apprciate it.:adore:
 

TommyXrunner

Active Member
Joined
May 22, 2012
Messages
1,859
Reaction score
0
I've been searching for info on XRU for a couple of days now but being a noob to modding really has its limits. I've read about coils, blocks, and monoleafs. So far I've figured that the monoleafs are better than blocks so I'm think of going that route and the coils/springs are for the front? Can anybody help educate me on this? I just want to be able to drop my X 2" in the front and 3" in the rear? and which do most use XII Perf or DJM?

Thnx for all the help I really apprciate it.:adore:

the XII drop coils will give your front a 1.75" drop and you can do any size blocks you want. but if you do 3" blocks you should look into getting the qa1 shocks from XII.

these guys will make you any size blocks you want: http://stores.streetacos.com/-strse-2005--dsh--2013-TACOMA-5-LUG/Categories.bok
 

05xrunnerx

New Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
631
Reaction score
0
I've been searching for info on XRU for a couple of days now but being a noob to modding really has its limits. I've read about coils, blocks, and monoleafs. So far I've figured that the monoleafs are better than blocks so I'm think of going that route and the coils/springs are for the front? Can anybody help educate me on this? I just want to be able to drop my X 2" in the front and 3" in the rear? and which do most use XII Perf or DJM?

Thnx for all the help I really apprciate it.:adore:

It really depends on what your planning on doing in the truck
 

baghramdunks

New Member
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
53
Reaction score
0
well im trying to put on some Concept One RS-20s and per my shop my the wheel gap is just going to increase so now im wondering im just wondering if a 2/3 drop will be feasible or should i go with a 3/4 drop? Im worried about scarping and bottoming out is all?
 

TommyXrunner

Active Member
Joined
May 22, 2012
Messages
1,859
Reaction score
0
well im trying to put on some Concept One RS-20s and per my shop my the wheel gap is just going to increase so now im wondering im just wondering if a 2/3 drop will be feasible or should i go with a 3/4 drop? Im worried about scarping and bottoming out is all?

i'm a little worried about scrapping here too so i ordered 3" blocks (doing custom c-notch) and than i'm gonna do drop coils or coilovers in the front. i'm kind of going for 1" wheel to fender gap on the front and back
 

Torspd

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
May 25, 2008
Messages
14,814
Reaction score
54
well im trying to put on some Concept One RS-20s and per my shop my the wheel gap is just going to increase so now im wondering im just wondering if a 2/3 drop will be feasible or should i go with a 3/4 drop? Im worried about scarping and bottoming out is all?

You should ask XII Performance in the vendor section. That way they will know to respond, and can set you on the right path. :top:
 

Limitless

Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
386
Reaction score
12
I prefer the XII Performance suspension myself and use my truck for autocross and for hauling. DJM was just a little too low for the roads where I am at, I tend to scrape speed bumps as it is let alone if i have a load in the back. That being said your only real option for the front is the springs (until coilovers are available) and would suggest the new leafs for the rear. The new springs/leafs are going to be stiffer than the stock ones which is what you will want with the truck being lowered. If you just go blocks then you will have the stock sping rate, which will make you more prone to bottoming out. And QA1's are highley recommended for either option you choose.
 

BondXII

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2009
Messages
1,041
Reaction score
71
hmmmm... let me see if I can hit all of the points in this thread. Thanks for referring to us for feedback Torspd.

It really all depends on what you trying to get out of your X.

For us, you get some drop, and added handling along with it.

With DJM, you get more drop and still kinda maintain stock ride quality.

I say kinda because with 3 or 4" blocks you get axle wrap on take off and when you're hauling stuff. The more block that you add, the farther away your axle is from the leaf springs. With basic physic (torque = lbs forced x length of lever arm) Torque/axle wrap increases as you add blocks (lever arm). as your torque increases at this point of the spring, it allows less effort to flex the front half of your spring. The issue with this is that the force has to come back. It does this quickly and basically tries to throw the back end of the truck up. Don't worry.. it's not getting tossed in the air or anything. But, when this happens, the weight (not much to start with) goes away and you loss traction and get wheel hop. Then you feel like a goof as everybody is watching you leave the parking lot going brrr brrr brr br b. :argh:

Of course, if you go with our "stage 1" the Street Drop kit, that issue is still there, it just increases the taller the block is.

As far as your wheel gap. It will decrease, not increase like the shop mentioned. If you do not drop it, your axle and spindle are still in the same place. So as you increase the diameter of your wheel (and tire) you will deplete the wheel gap. The down side to this is that you WILL end up "lifting" the X as you increase the total tire diameter.

With rubbing (while running the Concept One RS-20), you will be fine with our kits (all of them, since the drop is about the same...just the performance increases dependent on the kit). If you do like Tommy and do 3" blocks... but don't notch, you won't rub. But, you will bottom out a lot unless you compensate enough with QA1s. If you do either of DJM kits, you will rub with 20s and enough tire to not be a bad "rubber band tire" kind of ride. I've seen quite a few people only have to trim a little to make everything clear. I've also seen people do nothing but drive Ms Daisy and manage to not rub or scrape without trimming. Of, course I've seen people say they didn't trim anything with no troubles. Then I look at their tires and they're all cut up from the bolt heads in the fender. :hmmmm2:

In case this isn't confusing enough, you can mix match XII and DJM to do some crazy stuff too. You can go WAYYY low. Or you can DJM, then get better handling spring from us. We have stock height coils with the same rate as our drop coils. We even started doing different drop steel springs for the rear outside of our normal 2 inch drop. Depending on how you go with that, depends on the shocks needed for the back though.


Ohhh... and did I mention that we are getting close to releasing fully adjustable front coilovers too? :crinklehair:
 

TommyXrunner

Active Member
Joined
May 22, 2012
Messages
1,859
Reaction score
0
hmmmm... let me see if I can hit all of the points in this thread. Thanks for referring to us for feedback Torspd.

It really all depends on what you trying to get out of your X.

For us, you get some drop, and added handling along with it.

With DJM, you get more drop and still kinda maintain stock ride quality.

I say kinda because with 3 or 4" blocks you get axle wrap on take off and when you're hauling stuff. The more block that you add, the farther away your axle is from the leaf springs. With basic physic (torque = lbs forced x length of lever arm) Torque/axle wrap increases as you add blocks (lever arm). as your torque increases at this point of the spring, it allows less effort to flex the front half of your spring. The issue with this is that the force has to come back. It does this quickly and basically tries to throw the back end of the truck up. Don't worry.. it's not getting tossed in the air or anything. But, when this happens, the weight (not much to start with) goes away and you loss traction and get wheel hop. Then you feel like a goof as everybody is watching you leave the parking lot going brrr brrr brr br b. :argh:

Of course, if you go with our "stage 1" the Street Drop kit, that issue is still there, it just increases the taller the block is.

As far as your wheel gap. It will decrease, not increase like the shop mentioned. If you do not drop it, your axle and spindle are still in the same place. So as you increase the diameter of your wheel (and tire) you will deplete the wheel gap. The down side to this is that you WILL end up "lifting" the X as you increase the total tire diameter.

With rubbing (while running the Concept One RS-20), you will be fine with our kits (all of them, since the drop is about the same...just the performance increases dependent on the kit). If you do like Tommy and do 3" blocks... but don't notch, you won't rub. But, you will bottom out a lot unless you compensate enough with QA1s. If you do either of DJM kits, you will rub with 20s and enough tire to not be a bad "rubber band tire" kind of ride. I've seen quite a few people only have to trim a little to make everything clear. I've also seen people do nothing but drive Ms Daisy and manage to not rub or scrape without trimming. Of, course I've seen people say they didn't trim anything with no troubles. Then I look at their tires and they're all cut up from the bolt heads in the fender. :hmmmm2:

In case this isn't confusing enough, you can mix match XII and DJM to do some crazy stuff too. You can go WAYYY low. Or you can DJM, then get better handling spring from us. We have stock height coils with the same rate as our drop coils. We even started doing different drop steel springs for the rear outside of our normal 2 inch drop. Depending on how you go with that, depends on the shocks needed for the back though.


Ohhh... and did I mention that we are getting close to releasing fully adjustable front coilovers too? :crinklehair:

has anyone used your drop coils and drop spindles combined? which would give a 3.25" front drop. also just curious if i bought the correct 3" blocks for my truck. i got 3" belltech blocks with a 2 degrees taper. i want the tapered blocks right?
 

sohc4now

Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2011
Messages
390
Reaction score
0
Add the Qa1 shocks to the rear, don't question if you need them, just do it. You will have a crap ride without them.
Personally I believe they shouldn't be listed as an option, they are required.
 

BondXII

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2009
Messages
1,041
Reaction score
71
has anyone used your drop coils and drop spindles combined? which would give a 3.25" front drop. also just curious if i bought the correct 3" blocks for my truck. i got 3" belltech blocks with a 2 degrees taper. i want the tapered blocks right?

What's up with the hard questions. :hmmmm2: LOL

No one makes a drop spindle for the X (yet). Unless, you are referring to the spacers from c2c when they were still around. Mathmatically, that's what you will get. I'm not sure if you will be able to get it in spec at the alignment shop though. I know you can with control arms and coils, just not sure about the spacers. :dontknow:

Streetacos are the masters of getting blocks right for the rear. Since we are more "handling performance" driven, we haven't tried to figure ideal angles for 3 and 4 inch blocks. I'm not completely sure if they will tell if you made a good purchase or not since you didn't buy the blocks from them, but it would be worth a shot to give them a call and see what their thoughts are.
 

TommyXrunner

Active Member
Joined
May 22, 2012
Messages
1,859
Reaction score
0
What's up with the hard questions. :hmmmm2: LOL

No one makes a drop spindle for the X (yet). Unless, you are referring to the spacers from c2c when they were still around. Mathmatically, that's what you will get. I'm not sure if you will be able to get it in spec at the alignment shop though. I know you can with control arms and coils, just not sure about the spacers. :dontknow:

Streetacos are the masters of getting blocks right for the rear. Since we are more "handling performance" driven, we haven't tried to figure ideal angles for 3 and 4 inch blocks. I'm not completely sure if they will tell if you made a good purchase or not since you didn't buy the blocks from them, but it would be worth a shot to give them a call and see what their thoughts are.

haha yes i was referring to the c2c spacers. thought they were drop spindles but obviously i'm no genius :laugh: i bought my blocks from andys auto sport cause streetacos didn't ship to canada :thumbdown: my only options were no taper and 2 degrees taper for the 3" blocks and i figured a 2 degrees taper would be better than nothing but i really have no idea how much taper is ideal

maybe a 1" drop spindle with the 1.75" coils would work........ someone needs to find out! if i could get 1" drop spindles i'd pick them up for the right price. would make a nice combined drop in my opinion
 
Top Bottom