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Write-Up: URD Rear A/F Sensor Simulator Installation

rat7761

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This is for those of you who want to purchase Doug Thorley long tube headers but are wondering what's involved with the installation of a URD rear A/F sensor simulator. Be sure to disconnect your battery before starting.

DSCF2383.jpg


The simulator is small and there are 6 wires. Note: Soldering all connections is suggested but I did it the lazy way with butt connectors and wire taps.

DSCF2384.jpg


The ECU is located behind the glove compartment. No tools are required to remove the glove compartment. The ECU is the one furthest to the right.

DSCF2385.jpg


The 1st connection I made was tapping into the black ECU wire (plug E pin 1). This is a 12V source. The red wire from the simulator is connected.

DSCF2386.jpg


The 2nd connection was to the brown ECU wire (plug A pin 28). This is a ground. The black wire from the simulator was tapped into the brown ECU wire.

DSCF2387.jpg


The next task was to locate the white ECU wire (plug A pin 18). This is the bank 1 sensor wire. This wire was cut and the white simulator wire was connected to the ECU wire going to the sensor. The white/green stripe wire from the simulator was connected to the ECU wire going to the ECU.

DSCF2388.jpg


Finally, the black ECU wire (plug B pin 33) was located and cut. This is the bank 2 sensor wire. The pink simulator wire was connected to the ECU wire going to the sensor. The pink/blue stripe wire was connected to the ECU wire going to the ECU. Find a suitable location to zip tie the simulator out of the way and you're done. Note: It looks like the pink wire is connected to a white wire in the pic but it is connected to the black ECU wire going to the sensor which is hiding.

DSCF2390.jpg


I took a test drive and no codes were present. :smile:

DSCF2391.jpg


Pin locations. The locations are how you would see them if you were looking at the ECU from the passenger seat.
 
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micpun

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badass writeup
 
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Gadget

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Very nice, but....

If you are not going to solder the wires and insist on using splicing connectors, please USE THE CORRECT SIZE.

Blue is to big for those ECU wires. I have seen it time and time again where they did not properly pierce the insulation and make proper contact with the wire underneath.

RED is the correct size, but I strongly recommend properly soldering the connections.

Gadget
 

rat7761

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Very nice, but....

If you are not going to solder the wires and insist on using splicing connectors, please USE THE CORRECT SIZE.

Blue is to big for those ECU wires. I have seen it time and time again where they did not properly pierce the insulation and make proper contact with the wire underneath.

RED is the correct size, but I strongly recommend properly soldering the connections.

Gadget

Yup, I was out of the red wire taps. I probed the tap after I installed it to make sure I had a good connection.
 

Venomous_X

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I keep seeing "solder this, solder that" In my opinion, Wouldn't this be one of the times you'd want a tap style connection so that if you have to bring it to the dealer, you can remove it with ease? I have never soldered but that is the only thing preventing me from wanting to solder this particular type of connection. Imputs?

By the way, thanks for this brief writeup Ratt.....Its been a topic of some people not too long ago, who are waiting on headers :top:
 

My68ur8trd

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I keep seeing "solder this, solder that" In my opinion, Wouldn't this be one of the times you'd want a tap style connection so that if you have to bring it to the dealer, you can remove it with ease? I have never soldered but that is the only thing preventing me from wanting to solder this particular type of connection. Imputs?

By the way, thanks for this brief writeup Ratt.....Its been a topic of some people not too long ago, who are waiting on headers :top:

the one wire it cut anyway, if you put it back with a butt connector, they will now you had it cut.

i have had problems with t-taps in the past too.

and you can resolder and shrink wrap and make it look really nice if you take you time :top:


NICE WRITEUP :top:

Justin
 

pumo420

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thanks for the pics and write up helped me out!
 

x20Runner05

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Nice writeup. Has to be a way to discreetly get the sim to work and not cut wires. I'm sayen this cuz i know alot of folks on here want to not void warranty on their brand new truck. I work at a dealer and they will void warranty for major modifications like this.
 

KETCHUP

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Very nice, but....

If you are not going to solder the wires and insist on using splicing connectors, please USE THE CORRECT SIZE.

Blue is to big for those ECU wires. I have seen it time and time again where they did not properly pierce the insulation and make proper contact with the wire underneath.

RED is the correct size, but I strongly recommend properly soldering the connections.

Gadget

~TJ~
G, do you sell the harness that plugs the MAF CAL and 02 sim directly (plug and play) to the computer? Don't know if this would help on this mod.
 

X-roller

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Sweet write up. A bit confusing but I figured it out. :top: No more CEL.
 

turbomach1

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Nice write up. I dont want to mess with my harness so I guess I will not be doing this
 
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