Gadget said:

K&N filters are horrible.

Next time you clean one hold it up to the Sun and see how many holes you see in it that are way bigger than the dust particles you are trying to filter out.

Then there is the oil problem. That stuff blows off the filter and coats everything down the intake path with sticky oil including the MAF sensor. Then the dust that makes it through the filter sticks to everything. You end up big mess.

G

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That's an interesting perspective.

In my Fortuner I had to resort to an in-line filter, which is very similar to K&N, because I had no other choice, if I want to make use of my Snorkel. My Honda Odyssey uses oiled filters from the factory, but it is much denser than the K&N style filters. But that's a different subject. So do you recommend using the standard paper-based filters?

Stock Toyota filters are very good and they do not cause any problems.

Gadget said:

Stock Toyota filters are very good and they do not cause any problems.

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Thanks Gadget, that's good to know, especially with our dusty climate. I will advise the owner not to change it.

Going back to the installation, I've decided to go for a flexible pipe instead of those silicon couplers. The distance between the airbox and the rotrex inlet is too close for them. This one worked well. I don't know what's with the glare in thet photo, so excuse it. Probably the sun reflecting on the glass onto the camera lens.



All installed now, only the vacuum hoses and intercooler hoses are left:



Although the Prado has PLENTY of room for an air-to-air intercooler, the owner is on a tight budget, and we decided to just use the water to air unit that came with the second hand kit.

Looks good! I've always though about picking up a 4 door Tacoma with the 2tr. . Was curious to see how well this engine performed as a 4cyl under boost and how much it would handle.

So an update, I completed the installation and started tuning. The PerfectPower seems to be ok, but the problem is I don't have a wideband input, so I can't utilize logs as I do with the MAP-ECU. So I started doing a basic tune in my 'proving ground' to end up having an accident

A newly trained driver made a U-turn without checking for incoming traffic and the road was not lit at that area, and I crashed into him, right fender is gone. Damage is not too bad, airbags did not inflate, I crashed into the rear bumper of an old GMC Sierra so the fender took all the impact.

Fortunately my supercharger system and engine is intact, and the police put zero responsibility on me, so I'm getting it repaired on the third party insurance of the other car.

Just to describe how it felt, the fuel system obviously could not supply enough fuel with the stock pump and/or stock injectors. Also, the kick-in was very disappointing, I was hoping for much more. I advanced the timing a bit at low RPM (2.5 degrees) and it seemed to improve a lot, but going any further induced low RPM knock.

From my reading on South African sites, the stock injectors should be enough for the level of boost I'm making, only problem is with the weak pump. So I'm thinking the 2TR Prado will have the same injectors as the 2TR HiLux, so most likely upgrading the pump alone should suffice.

I was giving it a few runs to empty the fuel tank to install the pump, but the unfortunate event happened first.

Eeeesh......well at least it isn't a huge deal.

I don't care what anyone says, unless the fuel pump start out as a 255 lph, upgrade it.

It is much less than 255 lph, probably just around 100 lph. I see Gadget's kit utilizes a 190 lph pump upgrade, so you can imagine what is the stock pump flow.

I've noticed something interesting, the engine goes into open loop based on a factor of RPM and MAF (engine load), not only RPM. It goes into open loop when RPM goes beyond 4000 RPM, and it goes into open loop at a certain MAF. Because I am using stock injectors, I am increasing the voltage on the MAF analog signal in most of the map, and this results in the open loop triggering much earlier than anticipated. That's probably a good thing.

It will be a while till we get the insurance company money and get the car out of the repair shop.

Good news. Fortunately we'll be gettin much more money from the insurance company than needed to repair the car, so the car owner is getting power-hungry. He wants to go wild with boost and power with the four banger. I'm holding his horses now, let us get this tune running well and then we'll see how we can go about crazy boost.

I measured my Rotrex pulley size, and it appears to be a 75 mm pulley. I am surprised, provided the URD kit uses an 85 mm pulley, and both use a C30-94. Does the URD kit use the engine serpentine belt to drive the Rotrex, or does it use another belt and drive pulley? If it uses a longer serpentine belt, that means I should be making more boost than the URD kit, as there is a 10 mm pulley size advantage. I don't know if this is a good thing or a bad thing, I certainly did not feel all that mighty in terms of power. Any hints?

Interesting as well... I am not sure where specifically on the pulley that one takes the measurement from. The ribs I believe. Is this where you measured your pulley?

Also, does the s/c belt have plenty of tension?

How much boost did you see it make during testing?

Pulleys are measured across the tops/peaks of the ribs.

G

Torspd said:

Interesting as well... I am not sure where specifically on the pulley that one takes the measurement from. The ribs I believe. Is this where you measured your pulley?

Also, does the s/c belt have plenty of tension?

How much boost did you see it make during testing?

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Like gadget said, I measured it from the top of the rib.

Yes, it seems to be adequately tensioned, and there is no slippage.

I don't have a boost gauge, unfortunately, at the time being. And the primitive PerfectPower doesn't have a MAP sensor.

Boost gauge time. :top:

Well it seems the car is turning out quite well after the body repair work. We've installed the face-lifted 2015 facia.

Also, he is getting a lot of excess money from the insurance, enough to pay for the repair work, spare parts, and the supercharger kit and more to spare. So practically he's getting the supercharger kit for free.

Now he is getting power hungry, so we are planning to upgrade to a C38-91 supercharger, drop compression down to 8.5:1, install forged pistons and rods, and be probably the first seriously high performance 2TR. I am also planning to double-intercool it, I don't know if this has been done before, I have a mild water to air intercooler, and I'm going to add to it an air to air intercooler, to make sure it will have enough cooling for very high boost.

Targetting around 20 PSI of boost.

If I only replace the pistons and rods while the engine is in the car, and leave the crank shaft in there without touching it, will the crank shaft still need to be balanced?

It should. Plus checking bearing clearances for the rods. It can however be done like you said, but not as accurately as pulling it.

I'm installing a 320 LPH pump, is it safe to install that pump on a 2TR motor? Or will the fuel pressure be too high for the injectors/pressure regulator?

The fuel pressure regulator will manage the pressure. It will be fine.

Awesome! Thanks!

I just realized that the Prado we have uses the exact same radiator used in the Tacoma. Does anyone know if I can find a performance racing radiator for this application? I've roamed the Internet trying to find one, hard to believe it doesn't exist, considering the Xrunner is one of the best performing sport pickups in the market.

AFCO Racing, I believe has one.

www.Koyorad.com


Ron Davis radiators makes custom radiators. I have a huge one from them with dual SPAL electric fans. They can accomodate any of your needs. :top: