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Bolts instead of studs URD Traction Bar

LD X-IN

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Going to try bolts instead of studs 4 the URD traction bar the studs look weak the way they threaded it . I have Grade 8 bolts. Anybody did it this way.
 

GaX-Runner

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no i put the studs in but be careful make sure you get a c clamp to hold the differential together while you change out the studs or the gasket will leak. that's not a cheap fix but do use the studs.
 

My68ur8trd

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the studs are more than strong enough. there is very little load put on them

but you can do bolts if you want. i think the top one will be very hard to get in there

Justin
 

LD X-IN

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I was running the URD studs, the threads are so shallow . I took them out in fear they would mess up the threads on the rearend, Im going with the bolts, but the thing Im wondering is, are those studs a Grade 10? because they have a black hardin finish to them or is that just paint, My Grade 8 bolts have a gold finsh look,(or is there a such thing as Grade 10?)
 

KETCHUP

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I used the studs in the kit. had now issues to date. didn't think about the c-clamp thing, but I didn't have any issues with leaking either. Im sure that URD has tested the studs or they wouldn't sell them in their kits. I did scratch my head when I first saw em, but I trust Gadget and URD. Just MO.
 

LD X-IN

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Its been 2 yrs since I had it on my truck since then lost 2 studs and no stores here sell studs that are that long they said cut the bolt head off, thats another way, but are Grade 8 bolts strong enough? Changing Grades I heard is a no no Thankz
 

Coupe

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Metric bolts are not grade 8. There is a grade 8.8 (about a grade 5) 10.9 (about a grade 8) and there is a 12.9 which is a lot better than a grade 8.
 

LD X-IN

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Ok my bolts have a 8.8 so this is to weak of a bolt for the traction bar or are they good ? Thanks
 

Coupe

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Ok my bolts have a 8.8 so this is to weak of a bolt for the traction bar or are they good ? Thanks


I have not studied the rear end on these trucks, so I am not a good judge. I would use a 10.9 just to be sure.
 

muzzyfsu

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how did the bolts work out? did you ever talk to gadget about this?
 

LD X-IN

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just put trac. bar on, with 3 bolts for bottom, and used a header stud for top one it was just long enuff for the nut to make a full grab on the bolt, I will post pix. of the URD studs that i did not want to use.
 

DERRIXRYD

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So you used a big c-clamp so you didn't lose any fluid? You just changed the bolts or studs and bolted right up? That's cool if you didn't have to drain the pumpkin.
 

LD X-IN

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no I did drain the oil, just did not want to use the studs that came with the URD kit, and finding new studs was hard, so I used bolts instead of the URD studs, the studs from URD were cut and rethreaded, and the threads look shallow. My fear of using the URD studs were cranking them in and stripping the pumkin, using the new bolts and one new header stud (just long enuff) lets me sleep better at night, and not finding a leak on the ground... (Now in NO way em I telling guys to do it this way, its just the way I wanted to fly go, EZ)
 

LD X-IN

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Would you put this in your rear end? this was the best looking stud I had, lost the other studs over the 2 years I had the kit.
 

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MORT-RUNNER

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I just contacted URD, and they sent me to the manufacturer of the traction bar. They sent me new studs, bolts, everything. It costed me $15 shipped, but it was all new. Personally, I wouldn't have put bolts in it. But if it works for you, that's good.
 

LD X-IN

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bolts with a nut at the end.
 

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LD X-IN

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did your URD. studs look as bad as these, and r your new ones look better and not home made ?
 
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sixstringdave

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Why hasnt G chimed in to clear the air about this? Its on my future mod list...
 
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