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Too Far for Rattle Can?

roy365

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A trip to the car wash revealed some damage when I was rinsing/spraying it off recently. I wasn't too close, and I haven't hit anything in the short time I've owned it. I assume the previous owner bumped something and cracked the paint. :dontknow: Anywho.....has anyone fixed any paint issues like this on their plastic? Not sure if it's something I can do or not. I am guessing it will take some sanding, cleaning, chemical prep, paint, and sealant/clear.

709B1634-DA75-49A1-808E-B1467AEA102D-1652-000000CEEDCC1F58.jpg
 

Grumpy

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What you have there is the paint not adhering to the plastic, improperly prepped before painting. Completely strip that lip and repaint is in order. Good bodyshop will know what to do.
 

roy365

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Yes it gets worse by the week. I will just pull it off and take it to the dealer I guess.
 

AbunaiXR

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luckily its only on the lip, if it was only the bumper they'd probably have to repaint the whole thing.
 

toyota_rod

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i had to do the same for mine...dont take it to the dealer though...a body shop will charge 85-110$ to repaint it
 

roy365

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Just scared of the color match from a body shop. I guess if they have the paint code it shouldnt be too big of a deal though.
 

autobodyX

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Yep is it a repainted replacement part that someone did not prep properly. needs stripped, pressure wash it, it looks like that will strip it for you.
 

roy365

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Yep is it a repainted replacement part that someone did not prep properly. needs stripped, pressure wash it, it looks like that will strip it for you.

:laugh: Funny.....but true.

I nearly tossed my cookies when that huge ass chunk flew off.
 

toyota_rod

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check your drivers door and get the color code from it and check with the shops beforehand "The color code can be located in the driver side door jamb. The code will have a C/TR in front of it. A typical code will look like C/TR: 1D4/FH13, and 1D4 would be the color code"
 

Murderface

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Had this happen to my scion after I had Toyota replace the front bumper. I put some blue painters tape on the whole front end to make a far road trip and when I pulled the tape off it took a lot of the paint with it(did this a couple months after they painted it).They had to strip the whole bumper and repainted the whole thing, never told them how the paint came off.
 

jwg256

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Just scared of the color match from a body shop. I guess if they have the paint code it shouldnt be too big of a deal though.

I read something that the paint adheres to plastic differently than metal and gives off a different color even though its the same paint code n all. good luck tho, that paint fallin off shit sucks.
 

*IrunnIt*

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If you decide to do it yourself, make sure to clean it after you strip it and use adhesive promoter b4 you apply the paint.
 

roy365

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I read something that the paint adheres to plastic differently than metal and gives off a different color even though its the same paint code n all. good luck tho, that paint fallin off shit sucks.

I think this he mentions below is a huge part of the process. I need to go to Advance Auto and see if they sell this stuff. You know if I mess it up I can always do the Evo mod and cover it up! :laugh:

If you decide to do it yourself, make sure to clean it after you strip it and use adhesive promoter b4 you apply the paint.

This and there are a few other chemicals that help clean it from a few vids I have watched on Youtube need to be done. I know my Sherwin Williams can get me set up with a can of the paint from the paint code of SWB. That's the easy part. lol
 

STONER-X

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This and there are a few other chemicals that help clean it from a few vids I have watched on Youtube need to be done. I know my Sherwin Williams can get me set up with a can of the paint from the paint code of SWB. That's the easy part. lol

i have had great luck with SW auto paint!!!

if you read there directions it says to avoid adhesion promoters, and many special cleaners out of a store bought can.. i have heard that water and a LITTLE BIT of Dawn dish soap is the best thing to use... it is what i have always used and i have never had any fish eyes using it..

that part it so small if you are good at rattle can then do it your self.. :smile:
 

BlackCat

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Just a word of caution. In terms of any paint (rattle can or otherwise), even if you find yourself able to get the paint to apply and adhere, don't be entirely surprised if the color doesn't match. Speedway Blue is a VERY finicky color to properly color match - even with the factory-fresh shades. Add in a few years of sun-fade, and it's a guarantee that there will be some mismatch. Also, though you may have a factory paint code, take note that many paint codes (including Speedway Blue) have what are known in the industry as "variations" where there may be multiple shades of the same paint code. Most auto paint stores can pinpoint which variation you need based upon your VIN - but even then there will be some deviation.

Another factor to consider is the brand and line of paint. Some brands match some colors better than others. I've used Dupont ChromaSystem and BASF Diamont / Onyx HD paints and found strengths and weaknesses in each for color matching. As for Sherwin William's automotive paints, Ive actually not heard any good things about them though not from personal experience since I've never used it.

Nonetheless, I would recommend shooting paint and clear onto some sample piece and, after it all cures, compare directly against the truck to check for color match. This would also be good practice to understand your rattle can spray pattern and coating technique so that it applies smoothly and evenly, doesn't streak and doesn't leave "zebra patterns" (which a rattle can may be prone to do, especially if fired from too close to your work surface). And if it appears to color match on your sample spray panel, still be prepared to have to paint both of the lower front bumper valence panels and not just the one that's shedding paint just so that you have a hope of being able to blend your new shade of blue into the blue that's already on the truck.
 

roy365

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Ok so my small spot has gotten MUCH worse now. I was washing the truck and literally the whole passenger side paint came off just from water pressure.

I searched on here for "spoiler removal" but didnt really find anything. How does one remove the front spoiler, or lip extension as Toyota calls it? It looks there are rivets used on mine. Do you drill those out? I gotta get this thing off and painted quickly!
 

NODRULN

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Hey i work for PPG and seen this many times on cars. the main thing is if you or a shop does it make sure they use good PAP (plastic adhesion promoter) most time they dont scuff or prep enough. then the mold release agent is still soaked into the plactic and nothing will stick to it and will flake right off. a body shop would be cheaper and less of a headache then doing it yourself. unless you wanna learn to do it just in cause other surpises come along.
 

NHXRUNNER

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Ok so my small spot has gotten MUCH worse now. I was washing the truck and literally the whole passenger side paint came off just from water pressure.

I searched on here for "spoiler removal" but didnt really find anything. How does one remove the front spoiler, or lip extension as Toyota calls it? It looks there are rivets used on mine. Do you drill those out? I gotta get this thing off and painted quickly!

Unless it's been repaired and hacked back together before, there should only be plastic clips holding the body kit parts on.....:hmmmm2:
 

roy365

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Unless it's been repaired and hacked back together before, there should only be plastic clips holding the body kit parts on.....:hmmmm2:

It's definitely not the OEM plastic clips. The ones in the fender area visible are definitely aluminum rivets painted over. The lip/spoiler has been replaced, and whoever did it didn't prep the surface at all it appears. :thumbdown:

I wish it was just the plastic clips!!!! LOL
 
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