SD X'S new build.

[darthyota]

this thread is full of win!

 

[Torspd]

Needs boost! Which transmission do you have and which TOB?

I see a fuel filter in the engine bay. Handy. :top:

 

[sdxrunner619]

Needs boost! Which transmission do you have and which TOB?

I see a fuel filter in the engine bay. Handy. :top:

Its a gto trans "m12". Different gear set then the fbody t-56. Tob is a stock replacement unit. I'm looking at the mcleod tob as an upgrade. Not sure on which clutch. You aren't having anyproblems with high rpm shifting on yours, right?

That fuel filter is also a regulator too! Extra nifty. Lol.

Oh...and if boost this....****...WHEN I boost this, probably go safe and build another block for boost. Even though you can touch 600whp on stock bit, I wanna play it safe. But thats a ways down the road. First things first.... n/a mods. 450whp is only a few $$$ away...

 

[Prise]

That is a sick truck!!

 

[Torspd]

Don't get the McLeod TOB. Already came across some small problems that would make you pull your hair out, when you have to repeatedly drop the transmission. (Thank you for the help Robert)

What you want is a Tilton. Here are a couple link.

http://www.moderndriveline.com/catalog/internal_hydraulic_slave.htm

http://tiltonracing.com/?post_type=product

They cost a little less but have nothing made in China, better sealing, and are well aware of the pitfalls of the McLeod. They also supply NASCAR with a laundry list of parts. So their quality control standards are such that their parts are made to last.

 

[Torspd]

I just watched the video. Cannot tell if the "cutouts" or "exhaust tone blips" were due to the wind oscillations affecting the camera at higher speeds,or were the engine. Did you notice that, or is it just in the video?

 

[sdxrunner619]

Don't get the McLeod TOB. Already came across some small problems that would make you pull your hair out, when you have to repeatedly drop the transmission. (Thank you for the help Robert)

What you want is a Tilton. Here are a couple link.

http://www.moderndriveline.com/catalog/internal_hydraulic_slave.htm

http://tiltonracing.com/?post_type=product

They cost a little less but have nothing made in China, better sealing, and are well aware of the pitfalls of the McLeod. They also supply NASCAR with a laundry list of parts. So their quality control standards are such that their parts are made to last.

That tob is more then my fawking clutch!!!! Lol. Not happening....:laugh: I don't want it that bad. I'm just gonna go OEM and shim if needed.


Windows are down recorded on a cell phone.

That is a sick truck!!

Thanks!:top:

 

[Torspd]

Cheap compared to my clutch. :laugh:

 

[Sproulesxrunner]

Glad to hear it is back and running kev! Quick question for you though, does your airbags still work after the LS swap and the seat swaps? If they don't its time for a new steering wheel and get that goliath wheel out of there.

 

[sdxrunner619]

Glad to hear it is back and running kev! Quick question for you though, does your airbags still work after the LS swap and the seat swaps? If they don't its time for a new steering wheel and get that goliath wheel out of there.

I hate small steering wheels. I pulled out my airbag ecu. So, no they don't work. Plus, radio steering wheel controls still work.

Cheap compared to my clutch. :laugh:

I'm not going near your level of insanity. Most I'm gonna put through this stock engine and trans is basic n/a goodies.

Probably gonna end up getting a Monster stg 3 clutch. Good for 700lbft and seems to be the reoccurring clutch in most"mild" ls swap drift cars.

 

[sdxrunner619]

Update:

Two weeks of daily driving and aprox 500 miles later, truck is still running great. But....

I've tired all forum of bleeding, clutch pedal is still sticking at high rpms. Even if I sit in neutral and rev to the limit the clutch still does it.

Well, regardless tax return showed up, monster level 3 clutch with 28lb billet steel flywheel, ordered along with a Tick performance shim kit for the tob. New slave too just in case. Arp flywheel and pressure plate bolts also order on the parts list...I really thing ita the stock pressure plate failing. So hopefully one of those things fixes it.

I've also started trying to figure out my powersteering issue. Its way too sensitive. I tried a slightly larger pulley for the pump, and it helps. Gonna try a even larger one, and hope that works even better. If that doesn't do it, then I have reason to believe the tension spring in the rack is blown...which means a new rack. 173500 miles on it isnt exactly horrid. Lol:rolleyez:

I also tried switching to a closer to stock thermostat. Truck got fawking hot (almost 230) during a mountain run in 95* weather. So gonna keep the 160* and i added some ducting on top of the rad, help direct air to it.

Other then some minor teething problems, I'm very happy with how it turned out.


I'm allready looking at cam/valvetrain upgrades....not that its not making enough power, just you know....a little more won't hurt. :blurock:

 

[Clifford]

Glad to see it finally up and running man. We'll have to meet up now that I'll be in AZ.

 

[Coupe]

Update:

Two weeks of daily driving and aprox 500 miles later, truck is still running great. But....

I've tired all forum of bleeding, clutch pedal is still sticking at high rpms. Even if I sit in neutral and rev to the limit the clutch still does it.

Well, regardless tax return showed up, monster level 3 clutch with 28lb billet steel flywheel, ordered along with a Tick performance shim kit for the tob. New slave too just in case. Arp flywheel and pressure plate bolts also order on the parts list...I really thing ita the stock pressure plate failing. So hopefully one of those things fixes it.

I've also started trying to figure out my powersteering issue. Its way too sensitive. I tried a slightly larger pulley for the pump, and it helps. Gonna try a even larger one, and hope that works even better. If that doesn't do it, then I have reason to believe the tension spring in the rack is blown...which means a new rack. 173500 miles on it isnt exactly horrid. Lol:rolleyez:

I also tried switching to a closer to stock thermostat. Truck got fawking hot (almost 230) during a mountain run in 95* weather. So gonna keep the 160* and i added some ducting on top of the rad, help direct air to it.

Other then some minor teething problems, I'm very happy with how it turned out.


I'm allready looking at cam/valvetrain upgrades....not that its not making enough power, just you know....a little more won't hurt. :blurock:

I do not know if you have seen this post before. It may help your clutch situation.
http://www.torcavettes.com/tech/ClutchHydraulics.htm

 

[rennurx]

From what he describes that seems to be the answer.

 

[sdxrunner619]

I do not know if you have seen this post before. It may help your clutch situation.
http://www.torcavettes.com/tech/ClutchHydraulics.htm

Yup. Read that article. Pumped maybe a solid gallon of fluid high temp dot 4 580* boiling point fluid. Via pressure bleed, vacuum and manual. Its as flushed as humanly possible.

I'm also going to wrap my entire clutch line in high temp wrap when I drop the tranny to do the clutch. Just in case my headers are getting the fluid that hot.

Thanks for help, regardless coupe.

From what he describes that seems to be the answer.

If you dig deeper, you will find a bunch of different "fixes". The only one that seems consistent is the oem pp failing

 

[sdxrunner619]

Glad to see it finally up and running man. We'll have to meet up now that I'll be in AZ.

I vote you come out west where it isn't 189*s during the summer. :crinklehair:

 

[Clifford]

Ain't no body got time for California.

 

[sdxrunner619]

Ain't no body got time for California.

And I aint got a/c. So yah. One of us I gonna have to give. Lol:laugh:

 

[Clifford]

That's your own choice haha.

 

[sdxrunner619]

That's your own choice haha.

Not my choice. #becausedrifttruck