1GR Came Unglued

[Doublld]

ls swap it....

 

[Tunedx]

ls swap it....

Coming from experience..

LS Swap :top:

Rebuild 1GR :thumbdown:

 

[NHXRUNNER]

I see a lot of LS swap suggestions recently...and I can understand some peoples' frustration with the 1GR but when it comes down to it the LS swap is a HUGE undertaking. It's not just engine swap. Then you're talking wiring harness, transmission, driveshaft, rear end gears, ecu. Don't get me wrong, it's a great platform and you can make a lot more power, but for the 400hp range pushing less than 10lbs of boost, I don't see why that can't be accomplished with a forged 1GR and skip all the other steps. Again, for the BIG power guys LS is probably the only way, but if you're happy under 450 my money is in the 1GR.

 

[Tunedx]

From all the past experiences and money why would u sink it in this platform.. Makes zero sense. Plus u have are pos drive train left to deal with..

 

[akakrill]

Complete Disassembly

I think my heads are good, I don't really think I want to try to reuse the crank shaft. Here is the down and dirty...

Spanked the plug just barely, no difficulty removing it and the threads in the head appear ok.

This is a look at the valves on the driver side and a close up of the rear most cylinder, where the rod broke. aside from flatten metal flakes, I'm not sure I see any other damage.

However this is the piston from that same cylinder.

The top of this photo is the rear of the engine, the twisted rod on the top goes to the passenger side rearmost cylinder, that piston was entirely destroyed, and probably was the cause of the large block penetration aligned with it. The lower broken rod goes to the rearmost driver side cylinder, that piston was the cracked one above, it was found in the cylinder intact, with the wrist pin gone, as pictured. The rod penetrated on both sides, but does not appear twisted, I'm unsure which rod failed first, any ideas? I can say I believe it was one rod that failed that led to a piston failure, which cleaned out another rod which left the piston cracked as the wrist pin was pulled out of it.

The damage to the crankshaft... Would you reuse this?

Another view of the rods for analysis...

Sesame street... one of these thing doesn't look like the other.... 6th rod had damage to the hardware I cant get it off, and the piston is in chunks in the oil pan pic way back in the thread.

A clean look at all the havoc.. The bearings look fine.

Journals look ok, but without an inspection I wont know. Who the hell inspects these anyway?

The valve and rest of the heads seem good.

And finally there she hibernates for the winter.

Any advice is appreciated...

 

[Whitebeauty]

Damn......if u wanna keep the truck. LS swap it.

 

[Torspd]

From all the past experiences and money why would u sink it in this platform.. Makes zero sense. Plus u have are pos drive train left to deal with..

It doesn't make zero sense. There are mods for the drive train. Don't underestimate the complexity of an LS swap. If one doesn't have the tools and knowledge to do it oneself, then that is a very expensive labor cost.

Proper safe tuning and a not unintentionally starving it of oil, and you can easily make 600 whp on just rods, pistons, gaskets, and head studs. Much easier than swapping out, rewiring, and then building for boost, if it was already built for boost.

 

[Torspd]

There are machine shops around your area, as well as LC Engineering.

If all of the journals are ok, then those dings would have to be cleaned up, as not to cause interference while rotating. Talk with Gadget.

 

[Torspd]

The crank from my 1st engine, which hydro-ploded, is in my current engine. Runs like a champ too.

 

[NHXRUNNER]

It doesn't make zero sense. There are mods for the drive train. Don't underestimate the complexity of an LS swap. If one doesn't have the tools and knowledge to do it oneself, then that is a very expensive labor cost.

Proper safe tuning and a not unintentionally starving it of oil, and you can easily make 600 whp on just rods, pistons, gaskets, and head studs. Much easier than swapping out, rewiring, and then building for boost, if it was already built for boost.

Exactly my point. And in Billy's case, like myself, he can turn a wrench but to do an entire drivetrain swap, wiring harness, and build a boost kit from scratch it's simpler and more cost effective to build the 1GR. He has everything except a block. We're not talking about 15-20lbs of boost here. We're talking about the trying to build an engine that can reliably run the URD MK3 Stage III Kit. I see no reason why a built 1GR can't do that.

 

[Clifford]

LS swap is the only logical choice if you want to make good reliable power.

If not, I can still make you a deal on my stroker motor haha.

 

[Sproulesxrunner]

LS swap is the only logical choice if you want to make good reliable power.

If not, I can still make you a deal on my stroker motor haha.

This guys salespitch is golden haha. Sorry to hear about the 1grs akal and cliff

 

[Tunedx]

LS swap is the only logical choice if you want to make good reliable power.

If not, I can still make you a deal on my stroker motor haha.

Here u go from experience and lots of green thrown at platform with a pos drive train..Yes u can build 1gr to handle boost but at theend of the day u still have ay6 grinder..

 

[Torspd]

LS swap is the only logical choice if you want to make good reliable power.

If not, I can still make you a deal on my stroker motor haha.

Says the guy selling his truck. :crinklehair:

 

[Torspd]

Here u go from experience and lots of green thrown at platform with a pos drive train..Yes u can build 1gr to handle boost but at theend of the day u still have ay6 grinder..

URD T56 it when ready to up the power.

 

[Clifford]

T56 swap costs more than full lsx swap.

 

[1GRracer]

Turn key? Lol

 

[Clifford]

If you are going to T56, the swap cost is going to cost in the neighborhood of 7k, so yes you can swap a lsx into your truck for that price.

 

[Torspd]

That is completely incorrect and ridiculous. Unless you are in an absolutely "best case scenario," and can again, do the work yourself. David bought his T56 for around $700. Kit was about $2500. 3rd member and drive shaft for ~$750, then clutch disk for $300. My " built" trans was $1800. Even with my transmission, the price is still ~$2k under your estimate.

Price out a new or used running LSX, since you mentioned that one and not an LS1, LS2, etc. Then price a transmission with that. Then for the average guy who doesn't have the tools and electrical know how, to pay to have someone fab that stuff to fit in and drive. If bel is available, sure it can reduce the costs of a swap. If you go to a performance shop, they will quote you around $10k. Then what? Now you have around 330whp Still not 400+ unless you do an actual LSX. Want to make "good reliable power?" Add boost. Easy enough. That is just an additional cost to the original cost.

Rods, pistons, gaskets, studs, and it will handle 400 - 600 reliably. As long as the tuning is proper and safe. Trans will have to be upgraded. We all know that. Even if you can't do that yourself, that is only ~$5k for the engine.

It isn't cheaper. Especially not if already invested in additional components for the 1GR. All of those parts retain their values as they can still be reused.

 

[rennurx]

He could part out everything not needed for an Ls swap and l betit would pay for the entire thing.. just have to shop carefully. I picked up a built ls and a bunch of other goodies for $700. Good for over 800hp. I sold all my 1gr stuff. And have tons of money left over. Hell just selling the ucon paid for most of it. Son far I'd say its about thw same price with quite a different end result.