Multiple CEL's. Help!

[Torspd]

From Wrmathis:

my truck is outta commision right now. stuck down at barry's and it wont stay runnin/running horrible rough. have gotten codes p0018, p0022, p0300, p0302, p0304, p0306.

started out with a pending p0022 and after doing stuff with that, it started runnin like crap and got the misfire ones and the p0018


Had x1 bout 3 years. originally i had this problem. coming back from shoe creek, it threw a p0022 code. pulled connectors on the OCV and cam sensors and seemed fine. a week later drove down to barry's and it did it again and went into limp mode. got it down there and then this weekend i changed out the OCV and it stated runnin like poop. pulled the s/c and changed out the spark plugs and it was runnin fine. took it for a drive today and it was fine but the p0022 code came back pending but didnt go into limp mode. got back to barry's and changed the OCV Filter and checked the wiring for the OCV valves and all was good. put everything back together and it started runnin like poop again. and thats where i stand

Throwing this out there to get a little more exposure and help for him. :top:

 

[Gadget]

Got some issues with the crank and cam signals.

Tell him to try removing the X-1 and reinstalling it. It might have wiggled loose.

G

 

[Torspd]

That is the same thing I had mentioned. Even to completely remove it and just run the factory ecu.

This is what he said -

I've already pulled the x1 and tried factory. Not any better. Justin thinks its my timing but I'm not sure if its set right to change anything. That's what I'm havin issues with now

Justin being M68ur8.

 

[Whitebeauty]

Have him reload his map.

 

[wrmathis]

Have him reload his map.

im gonna try that tomorrow, but i dont see how that will help since it ran like poop on the factory.

im not even gettin codes now. just idles rough and misfires and after about 10-15 seconds, it just cuts off

 

[Torspd]

When you swapped to factory, did you disconnect the battery for about 5-10 minutes?

 

[wrmathis]

When you swapped to factory, did you disconnect the battery for about 5-10 minutes?

yes, everytime i did anything i disconnected the battery. a few times when i went to try something out i forgot to reconnect the battery.

 

[Torspd]

Ok, well if haven't dropped it off at the dealership, then pull the valve covers. Line up the timing chain marks on the intake cam gears, the orange ones.

When those orange links are lined up with the notches on the intake cam gears, and the cylinder on the passenger side closest to the grill is at the top of rotation (TDC), then your crank and intake cam gear timing is properly lined up.

Then just make sure that the exhaust cam gears yellow links are lined up with the nipples on the bearing caps. That will let you know if those are off or not.

You could also do a compression test. That would let you know if the valves are possibly open when they aren't supposed to be, or it could mean something else is going on. Without checking the timing marks as an additional point of reference, it will be hard to tell what the data from the compression test means.

You could also test the coolant for blow by exhuast gasses. Try to rule out a head hasket issue. If you cannot do the other tests.

 

[TahoesHateMe]

With p018 crankshaft/camshaft correlation like stated above, check the cam timing. If there is a problem with a chain or tensioner and may have jumped a tooth somewhere. The cam timing being off will cause it to misfire on the bank that is off.

 

[wrmathis]

Reloaded the software to the x1 and it ran ok for about 20 seconds the started stumbling and shut off again. Gonna get it towed back up to my place and tear into it again. Justin (my68h) said he would stop by and check the timing to make sure it's not ****ed up. If its not. Gonna put it back to stock and take it to the dealer.

 

[butters607]

Did you do a voltage test on either of the sensors?

 

[wrmathis]

Which sensors?

 

[butters607]

Which sensors?

The ones your getting codes for crankshaft/camshaft crank is behind the ac compressor

 

[wrmathis]

No I haven't. Not the crankshaft sensor. What would I need to check for?

 

[Amo-cat3]

Crank or Cam sensors? Those can be tested with a digimeter.

 

[butters607]

Well voltage to the sensor would be a good start then test the sensor itself maybe ohms or what amo said. I wouldn't go checking timing and pulling stuff that may be unnecessary until you start with those sensors

 

[TahoesHateMe]

The sensors have 5volt reference voltage. You need to read the sensor with a scope and look for the square wave pattern.

With the correlation fault most of the time its a mechaical issue. Just check the cam timing. Every time I've had a car with that fault its been a mechanical issue (timing belt, chain, broken chain guide, failed cam adjuster) varies by the engine what could be wrong but its always been timing.

 

[Gadget]

Easy thing to do is remove the cam sensors and see if the ends are covered with metal flakes. If so wipe them off and reinstall them.

The crank is a little harder to do since it is tucked in behind the A/C compressor and bracket. If you start taking all that stuff off I would have a new sensor ready to install.

Also check all your grounds. There is a major ground strap that goes from the side of the engine block near the starter to the battery. There are smaller grounding point on the back side of the heads near the firewall. All the sensor ground to those upper grounding points.

Since you have the same problem with the X-1 removed I would leave it removed until you solve your problem. It will just complicate your diagnostic process.

If you do not find your problem with easy steps, then look those codes up in the FSM and run the diagnostic procedure for those specific codes until you find out what is really wrong with it.

G

 

[Torspd]

Good info there.

 

[wrmathis]

Easy thing to do is remove the cam sensors and see if the ends are covered with metal flakes. If so wipe them off and reinstall them.

The crank is a little harder to do since it is tucked in behind the A/C compressor and bracket. If you start taking all that stuff off I would have a new sensor ready to install.

Also check all your grounds. There is a major ground strap that goes from the side of the engine block near the starter to the battery. There are smaller grounding point on the back side of the heads near the firewall. All the sensor ground to those upper grounding points.

Since you have the same problem with the X-1 removed I would leave it removed until you solve your problem. It will just complicate your diagnostic process.

If you do not find your problem with easy steps, then look those codes up in the FSM and run the diagnostic procedure for those specific codes until you find out what is really wrong with it.

G

the cam sensors are good in that there are no metal flakes. those have been removed and reinstalled a few times since its easier to do that than to get those damn connectors off.

yeah, if i remove the AC Compressor to get to the crankshaft sensor, im prolly just going to replace it while im there.

personally i think the timing either jumper or got a stupid loose connector somewhere. also, i had a oil leak for a while threw the drivers side valve cover where your suppose to put sealant when u remove and install those. i finally got that taken care of as far as i can tell but yeah, it was going on for a while and also took out my alternator a year ago. i even wwent ahead and replaced the vvti acctuator filter since i had one on the drivers side and ended up gettin more oil down in the area. im wondering if i got the crankshaft sensor connector coated in oil.

before im threw with it, ill put it back to stock with no S?C or X-1 and take it to the dealer. that might not happen until may tho since i am going on TDY up to FT. Lewis for 2 months. hopefully justin can stop by and look at my timing to make sure if its bad or good before i go and rule that out.