XrunnIT
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**Sorry for the very long read, but there is a LOT of information to put out. Cliff notes will be at the bottom of the post.**
So for the past couple months there have been a lot of whispers and talk going around about what happened to my motor.
So to crush all the rumors and clean up all the details here is the story.
One day during mid summer (don't remember when), I was out and about. IAT were right around 100-110°F, which has never been a problem before. I did a quick run at WOT, and heard some audible knock. If you hear audible knock, that is a bad sign. So I let off, and say ok, that's enough. No more WOT during the summer, its just too hot outside.
So no more boosting over the summer. Summer starts coming to an end, temperature starts dropping. IAT are getting into the high 70's (same as when i did the video of the 10psi pull). I know this temp is fine for how much boost I'm making. Tried going WOT again... audible knock... again. At this time, i figure there is an issue with my intercooler. I pull the intercooler off, clean the fins to see if there was oil build up on it that was preventing it from cooling. There wasn't anything that would cause issues... So I'm sitting there scratching my head trying to think of what else could be causing the knock. I reinstall my intercooler, and key on the truck to turn on the intercooler pump to fill up the intercooler so I could add more fluid to the reservoir. Pump never kicks on. Bingo! There's the issue, intercooler pump wasn't cycling any coolant. So I was essentially running without any intercooler.
After some troubleshooting I find a bad relay, replaced it, pump worked perfect. Re-checked my tune to make sure it wasn't too aggressive, it was fine. I went out did some med load data logs, and worked up to WOT to ensure there was no knock. No more knock. Problem fixed..... or so I thought.
Fall starts rolling through, temps start dropping. Truck is loving the new weather. Well one morning, the conditions were awesome for boost! I decide to go out and do some data logging and see what kind of numbers the truck is pulling. First pull was successful, 2nd pull proved to be too much.
Now this is where the two bad knocking instances over the summer come into play. The ringlands in the truck are weak to begin with. the knocking that I experienced damaged the rings, and the upped power from good weather proved to be more then the rings could handle. Smoke starts coming out the tailpipe, signs of oil burning.
I drove the truck home, make a few calls, do some poking around, motor is no longer driveable.
So now I sit at a crossroad.
-Do I just drop in another motor and call it good?
-Do I build a 1GR with forged internals
-Do I swap in a TT 2jz
-Do I swap in an LS1/LS6
I make some calls, get some quotes, start pricing out parts lists for all the various options. The stock 1GR was obviously the cheapest, followed by the built 1GR, with the 2jz swap looking to be the most expensive (quote started at $15k if I supply a motor and trans). I wasn't ever able to get a good accurate cost of what the LS swap would run.
I opted to build the 1GR in preps for new boost. And this is where the build begins....
A HUGE!!!!!!! thanks goes out to Torspd for his dedicated assistance in this whole process!!!!
So the project starts with me and Torspd pulling the motor from the truck. I had arranged a build to happen with LC Engineering, as I didn't have the tools or confidence to build my own motor (at least not in my truck). So the motor was pulled, and shipped out to LC Engineering in Lake Havasu AZ. I didn't take too many pictures of the full process, but i did get a couple snapped.
Pic of the bad cylinder.
LC received the engine and pulled it apart for inspection. The damaged rings had scored the cylinder walls pretty bad. They were unable to hone out the scores. So either I bore it over, or replace the block. The 1GR has pretty thin cylinder walls to begin with, so I didn't like the idea of boring it out anymore. Finding a short block proved to be a painstaking task. So i ended up purchasing a long block from Cali, and had that shipped to LC ($1400 shipped).
LC received the new block, and said that it was in amazing shape! Sweet! And the build continues. Installed were CP Pistons/rings. Because I plan on running more boost, I opted to drop the CR down from 10:1 to 9.5:1. Pauter chromoly rods were installed. In the heads I had them use ARP head studs, and replaced the valve springs with stiffer supertech valve springs. A street port and polish was done as well. All the bearings were replaced, all new Toyota OEM gaskets, guides, timing chain, etc all replaced.
I recieved the motor last week, and began the install.
With the new motor in my possession, all my new parts that have been collecting for the last few months finally get installed. First to go on was the Paradise Racing Stage IV clutch and Fidanza flywheel. NST's full line up of pulleys were installed (Water Pump, Alternator, Power Steering, S/C Crank and idlers - which looking killer!).
So now the motor install... this was definitely an experience. As much time was spent running back and forth between stores as the actually putting the motor in.
Again, big thanks goes out to Torspd for all his help, 08RR XRUNNER for helping out as well, and even my girlfriend got dirt and greese under her nails.
We get the motor in the bay, and start working on getting the transmission bolted up. Well the new block was missing a dowel on the passenger side. After a couple hours of trying to get the trans rotated and held into position, failing, and unable to get any bolts to tighten down, we gave up. We need that 2nd dowel. So we get a steel rod from Home Depot, and we make our own dowel. One of the holes also had to be re-tapped. The most time consuming and tedious task of the entire install was just getting the trans bolted up. But we got that done!
We start installing all the bolt-ons, the S/C, accessories (power steering, ac compressor, alternator), and connecting sensors. Saturday night we get everything gets installed, bolted up, looked over, coolant added, oil added, power steering fluid replaced (NST pulley installed). Everything looked good. I had to work sunday, so Torspd and my GF do the final touches, they siphon out the gas that had been sitting in the tank for the last 3.5 months, and add some fresh gas.
1st Start up Attempt - Failed
-no cranking, nothing. Dead battery, should have expected that. I put it up on my charger at lunch, and let it charge for about 5 hours before I was off work
2nd Start up Attempt
-motor cranks, but won't start. At this point, Torspd has to return to Houston. After work I get home, try starting it, same thing happens. CEL is on... shit... pull the code p0335 - crankshaft position sensor. Maybe we missed a sensor? Do some looking around and find that we did miss a sensor. PHEW! that was a close one. That sensor is one of the most PITA to get too. In order to connect it I had to remove the AC compressor, which involves removing the fan shroud, fan, s/c belt, s/c tensioner assemble, main belt, then using a variety of lengthy extensions through the wheel well to get to the 4 bolts holding the compressor in place. So I finally get the sensor reconnected and everything bolted back up.
3rd Start up Attempt - Failed
(>_<) - With the battery actually trying to start the truck, there still wasn't enough juice in it. More charging, and a set of jumper cables later, we are ready to try again.
4th Start up Attempt - Success
Truck fires up and holds a nice idle. JOY!!!!!
Once engine comes up to operating temp, its time for the motor break in. I go for about a 15 minute cruise, light-medium load, never breaking more then half throttle and never going over 3500 rpms. Bring it home, shut it down, and let her cool down completely. Once it was cooled down, started it up again, and went for another 15 minute cruise repeating the same process.
Get home check the oil, everything is looking good!!
First difference I noticed was the deceleration is MUCH faster, it was surprisingly fast. I was also expecting a different experience with the Stage IV clutch, being that people have made a big deal about it. I saw no difference in driveability (other then it grips right away). Only difference I noticed was a stiffer pedal, which feels more sporty. Maybe all my years experience driving manuals? IDK, but I can drive this clutch the exact same as the OEM one. But I never really slip the clutch when I drive, don't need too. I can take a picture of my OEM flywheel, after over 30k miles on that flywheel, with lots of autox racing, and drag racing, the surface barely looks used. No slipping at all.
And thus concludes, my motor build. And version 1.5 (version 2 being new boost). This week is break in period for the motor and clutch, so no hard driving, so please no questions about how hard it pulls now.
But to think I was trapping 105mph-107mph with bolt-ons and stock pulley.. I can't wait to see what the truck does now.
Parts Installed/Upgraded
-CP Pistons and rings. 9.5:1 CR
-Pauter Rods
-ARP Head studs
-Supertech Valve Springs
-Street Port and Polish on the heads
-Custom APR Upper Pulley (2.6")
-Full NST Set (minus crank-lite)
-Paradise Racing Stage IV Clutch
-Fidanza Flywheel
-Fuel pressure gauge (tapped just before 7th supply line - thanks to ntnhri for the idea)
-New TO Bearing
-New OEM grille w/emblem (HUGE THANKS GOES OUT TO KEVIN FOR THE HOOKUP!!)
**********************************
Cliff Notes
-Bad relay on intercooler pump caused intercooler to stop working. This caused knock and damaged the rings.
-Cooler weather = more power + damaged rings couldn't hold it = Motor blown.
-New motor purchased
-LC built 1gr with forged internals
-Truck is back on the road
**********************************
So for the past couple months there have been a lot of whispers and talk going around about what happened to my motor.
So to crush all the rumors and clean up all the details here is the story.
One day during mid summer (don't remember when), I was out and about. IAT were right around 100-110°F, which has never been a problem before. I did a quick run at WOT, and heard some audible knock. If you hear audible knock, that is a bad sign. So I let off, and say ok, that's enough. No more WOT during the summer, its just too hot outside.
So no more boosting over the summer. Summer starts coming to an end, temperature starts dropping. IAT are getting into the high 70's (same as when i did the video of the 10psi pull). I know this temp is fine for how much boost I'm making. Tried going WOT again... audible knock... again. At this time, i figure there is an issue with my intercooler. I pull the intercooler off, clean the fins to see if there was oil build up on it that was preventing it from cooling. There wasn't anything that would cause issues... So I'm sitting there scratching my head trying to think of what else could be causing the knock. I reinstall my intercooler, and key on the truck to turn on the intercooler pump to fill up the intercooler so I could add more fluid to the reservoir. Pump never kicks on. Bingo! There's the issue, intercooler pump wasn't cycling any coolant. So I was essentially running without any intercooler.
After some troubleshooting I find a bad relay, replaced it, pump worked perfect. Re-checked my tune to make sure it wasn't too aggressive, it was fine. I went out did some med load data logs, and worked up to WOT to ensure there was no knock. No more knock. Problem fixed..... or so I thought.
Fall starts rolling through, temps start dropping. Truck is loving the new weather. Well one morning, the conditions were awesome for boost! I decide to go out and do some data logging and see what kind of numbers the truck is pulling. First pull was successful, 2nd pull proved to be too much.
Now this is where the two bad knocking instances over the summer come into play. The ringlands in the truck are weak to begin with. the knocking that I experienced damaged the rings, and the upped power from good weather proved to be more then the rings could handle. Smoke starts coming out the tailpipe, signs of oil burning.
I drove the truck home, make a few calls, do some poking around, motor is no longer driveable.
So now I sit at a crossroad.
-Do I just drop in another motor and call it good?
-Do I build a 1GR with forged internals
-Do I swap in a TT 2jz
-Do I swap in an LS1/LS6
I make some calls, get some quotes, start pricing out parts lists for all the various options. The stock 1GR was obviously the cheapest, followed by the built 1GR, with the 2jz swap looking to be the most expensive (quote started at $15k if I supply a motor and trans). I wasn't ever able to get a good accurate cost of what the LS swap would run.
I opted to build the 1GR in preps for new boost. And this is where the build begins....
A HUGE!!!!!!! thanks goes out to Torspd for his dedicated assistance in this whole process!!!!
So the project starts with me and Torspd pulling the motor from the truck. I had arranged a build to happen with LC Engineering, as I didn't have the tools or confidence to build my own motor (at least not in my truck). So the motor was pulled, and shipped out to LC Engineering in Lake Havasu AZ. I didn't take too many pictures of the full process, but i did get a couple snapped.
Pic of the bad cylinder.
LC received the engine and pulled it apart for inspection. The damaged rings had scored the cylinder walls pretty bad. They were unable to hone out the scores. So either I bore it over, or replace the block. The 1GR has pretty thin cylinder walls to begin with, so I didn't like the idea of boring it out anymore. Finding a short block proved to be a painstaking task. So i ended up purchasing a long block from Cali, and had that shipped to LC ($1400 shipped).
LC received the new block, and said that it was in amazing shape! Sweet! And the build continues. Installed were CP Pistons/rings. Because I plan on running more boost, I opted to drop the CR down from 10:1 to 9.5:1. Pauter chromoly rods were installed. In the heads I had them use ARP head studs, and replaced the valve springs with stiffer supertech valve springs. A street port and polish was done as well. All the bearings were replaced, all new Toyota OEM gaskets, guides, timing chain, etc all replaced.
I recieved the motor last week, and began the install.
With the new motor in my possession, all my new parts that have been collecting for the last few months finally get installed. First to go on was the Paradise Racing Stage IV clutch and Fidanza flywheel. NST's full line up of pulleys were installed (Water Pump, Alternator, Power Steering, S/C Crank and idlers - which looking killer!).
So now the motor install... this was definitely an experience. As much time was spent running back and forth between stores as the actually putting the motor in.
Again, big thanks goes out to Torspd for all his help, 08RR XRUNNER for helping out as well, and even my girlfriend got dirt and greese under her nails.
We get the motor in the bay, and start working on getting the transmission bolted up. Well the new block was missing a dowel on the passenger side. After a couple hours of trying to get the trans rotated and held into position, failing, and unable to get any bolts to tighten down, we gave up. We need that 2nd dowel. So we get a steel rod from Home Depot, and we make our own dowel. One of the holes also had to be re-tapped. The most time consuming and tedious task of the entire install was just getting the trans bolted up. But we got that done!
We start installing all the bolt-ons, the S/C, accessories (power steering, ac compressor, alternator), and connecting sensors. Saturday night we get everything gets installed, bolted up, looked over, coolant added, oil added, power steering fluid replaced (NST pulley installed). Everything looked good. I had to work sunday, so Torspd and my GF do the final touches, they siphon out the gas that had been sitting in the tank for the last 3.5 months, and add some fresh gas.
1st Start up Attempt - Failed
-no cranking, nothing. Dead battery, should have expected that. I put it up on my charger at lunch, and let it charge for about 5 hours before I was off work
2nd Start up Attempt
-motor cranks, but won't start. At this point, Torspd has to return to Houston. After work I get home, try starting it, same thing happens. CEL is on... shit... pull the code p0335 - crankshaft position sensor. Maybe we missed a sensor? Do some looking around and find that we did miss a sensor. PHEW! that was a close one. That sensor is one of the most PITA to get too. In order to connect it I had to remove the AC compressor, which involves removing the fan shroud, fan, s/c belt, s/c tensioner assemble, main belt, then using a variety of lengthy extensions through the wheel well to get to the 4 bolts holding the compressor in place. So I finally get the sensor reconnected and everything bolted back up.
3rd Start up Attempt - Failed
(>_<) - With the battery actually trying to start the truck, there still wasn't enough juice in it. More charging, and a set of jumper cables later, we are ready to try again.
4th Start up Attempt - Success
Truck fires up and holds a nice idle. JOY!!!!!
Once engine comes up to operating temp, its time for the motor break in. I go for about a 15 minute cruise, light-medium load, never breaking more then half throttle and never going over 3500 rpms. Bring it home, shut it down, and let her cool down completely. Once it was cooled down, started it up again, and went for another 15 minute cruise repeating the same process.
Get home check the oil, everything is looking good!!
First difference I noticed was the deceleration is MUCH faster, it was surprisingly fast. I was also expecting a different experience with the Stage IV clutch, being that people have made a big deal about it. I saw no difference in driveability (other then it grips right away). Only difference I noticed was a stiffer pedal, which feels more sporty. Maybe all my years experience driving manuals? IDK, but I can drive this clutch the exact same as the OEM one. But I never really slip the clutch when I drive, don't need too. I can take a picture of my OEM flywheel, after over 30k miles on that flywheel, with lots of autox racing, and drag racing, the surface barely looks used. No slipping at all.
And thus concludes, my motor build. And version 1.5 (version 2 being new boost). This week is break in period for the motor and clutch, so no hard driving, so please no questions about how hard it pulls now.
But to think I was trapping 105mph-107mph with bolt-ons and stock pulley.. I can't wait to see what the truck does now.
Parts Installed/Upgraded
-CP Pistons and rings. 9.5:1 CR
-Pauter Rods
-ARP Head studs
-Supertech Valve Springs
-Street Port and Polish on the heads
-Custom APR Upper Pulley (2.6")
-Full NST Set (minus crank-lite)
-Paradise Racing Stage IV Clutch
-Fidanza Flywheel
-Fuel pressure gauge (tapped just before 7th supply line - thanks to ntnhri for the idea)
-New TO Bearing
-New OEM grille w/emblem (HUGE THANKS GOES OUT TO KEVIN FOR THE HOOKUP!!)
**********************************
Cliff Notes
-Bad relay on intercooler pump caused intercooler to stop working. This caused knock and damaged the rings.
-Cooler weather = more power + damaged rings couldn't hold it = Motor blown.
-New motor purchased
-LC built 1gr with forged internals
-Truck is back on the road
**********************************
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