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Blower Install Photos

Jonathan

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looks good, where did you get that sweet ass idea?:laugh:
 

Dallas

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looks great bro! one thing I saw in the photos that has me concerned is that brown foam seal around the aftercooler. I wonder how long before that foam starts to break down and crumble? this is very worrysome especially if someone was using water/methanol injection, I think that it would speed up the deterioration of the foam. and there is only one place that stuff is gonna go.....at least it will smash, but it may foul the plugs, o2 sensor and or the cats. Any Thoughts?
 

Aspen_S/C

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OK, I'll post this here since replies seem slow to appear.

I am wanting to put my URD pulley on this week. Since I did not do the TRD S/C install, how does one:

"Use a 1/2 socket wrench to release the tension on the supercharger belt tensioner."

Also, what about the need for a strap wrench for holding the pulley still while torquing it?

Do I have to buy a strap wrench and a puller to do this now?
 

trd_sport

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OK, I'll post this here since replies seem slow to appear.

I am wanting to put my URD pulley on this week. Since I did not do the TRD S/C install, how does one:

"Use a 1/2 socket wrench to release the tension on the supercharger belt tensioner."

Also, what about the need for a strap wrench for holding the pulley still while torquing it?

Do I have to buy a strap wrench and a puller to do this now?
You'll need a pulley puller and a press tool for the new pulley that you can get through URD. I have not recieved mine so I dont know what the instructions say. Can you not get a socket to the belt tensioner?
 

Aspen_S/C

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You'll need a pulley puller and a press tool for the new pulley that you can get through URD. I have not recieved mine so I dont know what the instructions say. Can you not get a socket to the belt tensioner?

I got the press fit tool w/ the pulley, for the puller, the instructions call for a "Am-Pro #T74193 and is available from Autozone for $27."

I am pretty sure I can get the wrench to the belt tensioner, but I want to make damn good and sure of what I am yanking on before I go messing with it. I just want to be sure is all. I'll take a photo tomorrow and see if what I am suspecting is the hole for the socket is indeed that.

And if there is a torque value for that bolt, I would like to know that too. The TRD S/C instructions are a bit vague to me in this regard.
 

metalheadx

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those valve covers look so good nice work i wish i did that to mine when i got my s/c put on
 

5H4D0WD347H

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looks great bro! one thing I saw in the photos that has me concerned is that brown foam seal around the aftercooler. I wonder how long before that foam starts to break down and crumble? this is very worrysome especially if someone was using water/methanol injection, I think that it would speed up the deterioration of the foam. and there is only one place that stuff is gonna go.....at least it will smash, but it may foul the plugs, o2 sensor and or the cats. Any Thoughts?

I was thinking that myself the other day. I don't think it will deteriorate with normal usage. It seems to be very durable (almost rubberized) material, its bonded very well to the radiator, the fit is also extremely snug against the wall of the housing and the cooler.

However I am not quite sure how wise it is to use methanol over well extended periods of time with it.... I am not sure liquid methanol would even make it to that point to be honest with you; it might all be atomized/vapor by the time it reaches there.

Water will be ok.

Might have to go direct port or a diluted mix of meth & water.

There have been people running methanol through these blowers with out problems, but not for extended periods of time to really tell. It is easy to periodically check... But its something to look into at this point.
 
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5H4D0WD347H

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I got the press fit tool w/ the pulley, for the puller, the instructions call for a "Am-Pro #T74193 and is available from Autozone for $27."

I am pretty sure I can get the wrench to the belt tensioner, but I want to make damn good and sure of what I am yanking on before I go messing with it. I just want to be sure is all. I'll take a photo tomorrow and see if what I am suspecting is the hole for the socket is indeed that.

And if there is a torque value for that bolt, I would like to know that too. The TRD S/C instructions are a bit vague to me in this regard.

The tensioner is below the supercharger nose pulley farther down on the motor (bolted in front of some factory rollers/pulleys).

If you put a socket or a wrench on the bolt and push/pull towards the battery side of the truck (pretty sure that its in that direction) you will release the tension on the belt. No need to torque or remove anything.
 

Jonathan

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infact, if you pull up on the belt, you can slide the belt off the upper idler pulley, then do the same to the SC pulley. it takes about 8 seconds literally, and no tools needs for on OR off on the belt.
 

wshsbears

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valve covers look amazing:rock: what was the price tag/downtime for them? a week?
 

5H4D0WD347H

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valve covers look amazing:rock: what was the price tag/downtime for them? a week?

Down time was a bit (my powdercoated is pretty busy right now).

Cost was $80.00 with some extra powder laid down (to smooth the covers out a bit) and clear coated.
 

Aspen_S/C

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infact, if you pull up on the belt, you can slide the belt off the upper idler pulley, then do the same to the SC pulley. it takes about 8 seconds literally, and no tools needs for on OR off on the belt.

I kind of wondered that, but with the new pulley, is the tensioner automatically re-adjusting to hit the right tension? Or is there any adjustment? I am figuring it is some spring loaded-automatic thing as there is nothing in either the URD pulley or TRD S/C manual that speaks of that.

Thanks guys, I'll get er' in soon enough.
 

5H4D0WD347H

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I kind of wondered that, but with the new pulley, is the tensioner automatically re-adjusting to hit the right tension? Or is there any adjustment? I am figuring it is some spring loaded-automatic thing as there is nothing in either the URD pulley or TRD S/C manual that speaks of that.

Thanks guys, I'll get er' in soon enough.

It is a "automatic" tensioner. :top:
 

Aspen_S/C

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infact, if you pull up on the belt, you can slide the belt off the upper idler pulley, then do the same to the SC pulley. it takes about 8 seconds literally, and no tools needs for on OR off on the belt.

I sure hope so, beacause after trying to figure out how to get around the fan and shroud to even get the socket in the idler, It would not budge. We pulled up, down, sideways, nothing moved, odd.

I am really confused now, The socket hole is on the idler axis, not the pivot point. How is that supposed to move anything?

And getting the bung weld for my AFR gauge, wow is that going to be pricey and half a day to do it!

So I did not get much done today other than buying tools, getting the warranty work done on a cracked windshield.

**Edit** It is now 8AM and it is 13 degrees out, might be time to give this a try.
 
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DOGSTOY06

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speaking of those valve covers, wonder if you could get the same effect using high heat paint? & wonder if they have high heat clear?:dontknow:
 

5H4D0WD347H

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Added 1 more picture, taking it to get flashed Monday. Then more stuff goes on.
 
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