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Drag Race season

fishsticks

Because fast lifted truck.
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Your radiator puke tank and battery hold down need to be in place to pass tech. Your tail lights needs to work. Your bottle needs to be up to date on inspections if you're juicing. You'll need a helmet for 13.99 or faster.

One of the best feelings is getting kicked off the track because your new personal best requires more safety equipment. :top:
 
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Your radiator puke tank and battery hold down need to be in place to pass tech. Your tail lights needs to work. Your bottle needs to be up to date on inspections if you're juicing. You'll need a helmet for 13.99 or faster.

One of the best feelings is getting kicked off the track because your new personal best requires more safety equipment. :top:

Bottle? What bottle? Im N/A
 

Torspd

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Bet you get it with some slicks

This:top:

Your radiator puke tank and battery hold down need to be in place to pass tech. Your tail lights needs to work. Your bottle needs to be up to date on inspections if you're juicing. You'll need a helmet for 13.99 or faster.

One of the best feelings is getting kicked off the track because your new personal best requires more safety equipment. :top:

And this. :top:
 

fishsticks

Because fast lifted truck.
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Bottle? What bottle? Im N/A

Well...

62524131.jpg
 

fishsticks

Because fast lifted truck.
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In all seriousness though...

Drive around the water box, back up so just your rear tires are on the wet ground, not in the water. Give the rear tires a quick spin just to clean them off. Street tires suck if you heat them, so don't go crazy.

Once you're staged, left foot the brake pedal and give it a little gas to load the converter up. Don't go nuts or you'll foam the fluid in the converter. 1200-1500RPM is fine. Don't worry about RT, it won't matter unless you get into bracket racing. When the tree goes down, leave on green. Squeeze the throttle a little more as you let off the brake, then as you start to move forward roll into the gas all the way.

My first pass every night is/was always pretty gentle to gauge how track prep was that day and to listen for any new noises. After that, game on. :blurock:
 

fishsticks

Because fast lifted truck.
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lol ill tape the energy drink to my hood?

Drink the energy drink first, then strap the can in the bed of your truck and run a hose to it. :laugh:

Check my serious post up a couple if you missed it. We both posted at the same time.
 
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In all seriousness though...

Drive around the water box, back up so just your rear tires are on the wet ground, not in the water. Give the rear tires a quick spin just to clean them off. Street tires suck if you heat them, so don't go crazy.

Once you're staged, left foot the brake pedal and give it a little gas to load the converter up. Don't go nuts or you'll foam the fluid in the converter. 1200-1500RPM is fine. Don't worry about RT, it won't matter unless you get into bracket racing. When the tree goes down, leave on green. Squeeze the throttle a little more as you let off the brake, then as you start to move forward roll into the gas all the way.

My first pass every night is/was always pretty gentle to gauge how track prep was that day and to listen for any new noises. After that, game on. :blurock:
my tires HATE being wet though.... they do nothing but spin with the slightest drop of water, and have no traction... and so I just hold the brake and press the gas and slightly rev? seems like that's rough on brakes and diff?
 

fishsticks

Because fast lifted truck.
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my tires HATE being wet though.... they do nothing but spin with the slightest drop of water, and have no traction... and so I just hold the brake and press the gas and slightly rev? seems like that's rough on brakes and diff?

You're just backing onto the wet ground to help get the tires spinning. They'll dry off very quickly. That's why you don't back all the way into the water box.

And yes, basically just power brake the truck slightly. You want to load the trans/drivetrain up so you can leave quickly but not shock the system. It doesn't hurt anything unless you rev hard against the brakes. It's pretty much what you have to do to get a decent 60' in an auto unless you plan on installing a trans brake. :smile:

Practice it on the street and get a feel for it. You'll understand once you try it a couple times.
 
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You're just backing onto the wet ground to help get the tires spinning. They'll dry off very quickly. That's why you don't back all the way into the water box.

And yes, basically just power brake the truck slightly. You want to load the trans/drivetrain up so you can leave quickly but not shock the system. It doesn't hurt anything unless you rev hard against the brakes. It's pretty much what you have to do to get a decent 60' in an auto unless you plan on installing a trans brake. :smile:

Practice it on the street and get a feel for it. You'll understand once you try it a couple times.
ill try after I slap on these caltracs
 
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Lots of good pointers there. The water is gone when you heat up the tires but really a burnout isn't going to do much for street tires.

Yeah, the green light tip is king on there, a really good explanation there. He seems to say skip it with Street tires
 

fishsticks

Because fast lifted truck.
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On street tires, you just want to knock any rocks/dirt you picked up off the staging lanes. You don't want to heat them. You can safely skip burnout if you prefer.

RT does not affect your overall time. IMO get your launch and 60' down before you worry about leaving on green. A 000 RT means squat if your 60' time is 2.8. Once you get the launch down you can practice holeshots then shallow or deep stage to get it perfect. Don't bother racing the tree if you're new.
 
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