Re-Installing My Supercharger

[iniazy]

Finally got the MAP-ECU3 with AFR calibator, as a replacement for the UCON which didn't work with my truck in a really peculiar and unique case.

Thanks to Gadget for supporting me with all needed hardware for the replacement. If only he could have had a base map for me to start with, but he hadn't any.

I'm going through the documentation of the MAP-ECU3 to understand how it works. I've learnt a lot from talking to Peter from MAPECU.com, he gave me a lot of guidance on what to do and I feel confident with it now.

I've put my dash back together now. Time to start tuning.

Anyone can guide me how to benefit from the URD cam gears with this universal ECU? I think I just need to advance ignition timing about four degrees, but need to verify that.

 

[Torspd]

Do you have the URD thermostat as well? It might be 4 degrees, but I though it was three?

 

[Torspd]

This thread might be of some help for you as well, while trying to communicate with the Map3.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/map-ecu3-question.371891/#post-10219005

 

[iniazy]

Do you have the URD thermostat as well? It might be 4 degrees, but I though it was three?

Yes, I do have the thermostat too.

What makes you think it's three degrees?

I've talked to Allen from APR back before I bought the URD UCON, asking him what I need to do if I install the X1 without the cam gears, and he said I'll have to retard it four degrees throughout the whole map.

Thanks for the link, that's very interesting. Curious why he didn't go for a UCON. Haven't started reading yet.

 

[iniazy]

Finished wiring the harness extension. What a big job! With the perfectPower you just wired the crank signal, not all six coils. With MapECU3 you don't touch the crank signal, but wire all six coils.

Installed the harness in place, now I just need to plug the MAP-ECU into it. Still working on the driver for my laptop.

Sure is getting crowded in there, I'm not sure how I'm going to close my glove box! But that's something to worry about later.

 

[iniazy]

Hi guys, I've just installed the MAP-ECU3 on my truck and I got the infamous code, P2238. Says Bank 1 Sensor 1, so I assume this is the passanger side sensor. I just replaced my harness, so I am suspecting the harness. I would like to thank Torspd for the link to the PDF file in the other thread, I'll go through the troubleshooting steps. Just to clarify, Bank 1 is the passenger side, yes? Since Cylinder 1 is on the passenger side.

I tried exchanging the two front sensors, but the Code remained the same, Bank 1 Sensor 1. This means my problem is most likely from the harness.

Also, I did an OBDII scan and monitored the open loop and fuel trims, but it seems the Bank 1 sensor is never getting hot enough to activate, until the ECU gives up and triggers the code. The Bank 1 Short Term Fuel Trims are not starting, but Bank 2 starts even when it is still in open loop, giving me a reading. This is until it goes to Fail mode and stops displaying anything. Here's a screenshot of my OBDII readout:

I've added some tiny gauges to observe the voltage on all four sensors, and they seem to all give proper voltage, although it seems the rear sensors are showing that I'm too lean (low 0.2 Volts). So if both front sensors are getting voltage, then why is one of them seemingly malfunctioning?

Also, I noticed when I swapped the AFR sensors that the sensor on the driver side seemed to have a lot more carbon deposits on it than the passenger side, which seems quite strange, and it shows in the tiny voltage gauges that one side is rich and the other side is lean. I wonder why it's doing that?

I'll find out more tomorrow as I go through the troubleshooting steps in the PDF.

 

[Torspd]

Correct. Passenger side is the Bank 1.

Your second to last paragraph is a tad confusing with the way you described the difference of carbon deposit on the passenger sensor versus the passenger sensor. Do you mind clarifying?

 

[iniazy]

Correct. Passenger side is the Bank 1.

Your second to last paragraph is a tad confusing with the way you described the difference of carbon deposit on the passenger sensor versus the passenger sensor. Do you mind clarifying?

Fixed

I found the culprit!

The bank 1 AFR sensor plug was cut and wired back in the replacement harness! Bad luck. The wires were just twisted together and taped, and one of them obviously failed over time. The tape was really hard and all cracked up, which means it was done a long time ago, not recently, probably some job before the car was wrecked. Now fixed, I've put them back together, soldiered them, and wraped them with heat shrink. What a hastle, I had to unplug all the connectors on the transmission and transfer case and pull the harness up from behind the engine to be able to work it.

Now all is good, the MAPECU3 is working perfectly and the engine is smooth like butter. Now all I need to do is tune! That sounds simple enough


I found that when I wire in the AFR calibrator, even at 0 adjustments it still pulls the current a bit, without any changes the STFT would go down to -20 on both banks. I calibrated it down to -0.08 mA (I think the unit is mA) throughout the table and that brought the STFT right at the correct place, between +5 and -5.

I'm sort of thankful that the UCON didn't work out. Yes, it would have made my life so much easier, but I'm learning so much more now. I'm learning all about Short and Long term fuel trims, about MAP vs MAF vs TPS, I think the knowledge is really worth the extra trouble. And I think I'm still at a steal in terms of cost. If I add up the cost of the cam gears, Thermostat kit, MAP-ECU3 device, AFR calibrator, and harness extension, it would have cost me even more than what I paid for the UCON. So I'm still grateful.

 

[Torspd]

Your determination is inspiring. You keep having these dilemmas, and you keep pushing forward and making progress. Well done. :top:

The thing that I like about the Map-ECU, is that it is a pretty user friendly tuning device. While expanding your knowledge on the subject of tuning without being overly complicated or frustrating. Gadget tuned mine a while ago, when my truck was lifted. Man did it run great. He was able to do so in a very short period of time.

That means that once you figure yours out, you'd be able to navigate much quicker the next time around in case you end up tuning another for someone else.

 

[iniazy]

You learn so much by writing in these forums and pick the members' brains, and you can be very helpful for forum members as well. The things I've done that I learnt from forums are too many to count.

Attempted to do the thermostat swap today, everything went well until I came to remove those damn studs. Toyota makes them from really soft material, double nut technique just doesn't work, it will rip the stud apart in two pieces. So when I started feeling the stud could get damaged I backed out and put things back together using the thermostat housing from my spare engine until I get a stud remover.

 

[iniazy]

Something just had to happen. After I unplugged and pulled the harness and repaired the AFR sensor plug, and plugged everything back in, I got a P0328 Knock Sensor Circuit High Input code. WTF! I double-checked the knock sensor plug, unplugged and plugged it back in, and the problem persisted.

Anyway, I'm not going to let that stop me from tuning my truck.

I am having a lot of fun playing with AFR adjust and zeroing the STFT. I just realized how important and critical is adjusting the AFR. I've always neglected it in the past. It is far more important than adjusting the MAF signal, in closed loop.

This is what I did:
1. During idle, adjust the base AFR to get the AFR reading in the OBDII scanner as close as possible to the AFR reading on my gauge
2. During idle, adjust the MAF to zero in the STFT, i.e. get it as close as possible to zero
3. Adjust the AFR at higher revs, while stationary (MAP below 0 PSI), to keep the AFR where I want it while monitoring the AFR gauge
4. Adjust the MAF to zero in the STFT

It works so well, I can see how the ECU adds and removes fuel as I adjust the AFR.

At one point I accidentally reached the rev limit, and suddenly the car started behaving really strange for a moment. My AFR gauge started showing 22:1 AFR, as if the right hand side cylinders shut off or something, the ECU went into open loop, and the revs dropped to 500 RPM at idle. (Edit: I realized what happened, ignition coil number 5 wiring plug was loose.) I had another WTF moment. I switched the engine off completely, and then restarted it, and it went back to normal again. I don't know what happened there.

 

[Gadget]

Are you doing this with stock injectors or bigger ones?

 

[iniazy]

Bigger ones. 650 CC.

 

[Gadget]

I think there is a much better way to do it. You have to many variables at once. Might end up tail chasing, but might work.

What is the value on the AFR adjust table that gave you 14.7:1 AFR?

 

[iniazy]

I think there is a much better way to do it. You have to many variables at once. Might end up tail chasing, but might work.

What is the value on the AFR adjust table that gave you 14.7:1 AFR?

-0.20 was the value that gave me 14.7. I think that means -2 mA.

With no adjustments to the AFR table the ECM keeps trying to lean out and end up with 16:1. I had to do some adjustments to get it back to normal.

 

[Gadget]

That value does not seem right.

Here is what I would do if I was going to tune it.

Disconnect the blue and yellow wires from the AFR adjust module. Dial in your closed loop with the fuel table and get the fuel trim deviations close to zero. Put some miles on it and keep it out of boost. This will let the ECU settle in a bit.

Then hook up a wideband and reconnect the AFR Adjust Module. Bring the RPM to a steady 2000 and hold it there and try different values to get the AFR to 14.7 AFR. From what I have seen that is normally around -.02. Once you have that figured out populate the entire table with that value.

Then get a note pad and hold it at 2000 again and try different values to make it richer and write down what value gives you what AFR. Keep going and see if you can get it down to 12:1 without making the ECU mad.

The decided what AFR you want at what PSI in boost and populate those areas of the table to give you what you want. Don't really need to drive it to do this.

Now go for a ride and tweak the fuel table to cancel fuel trims and slowly ease it into boost and still cancel fuel trims with the fuel table. Keep going until you are in open loop and dial that in to redline. 3rd gear is the best to do this in.

You should now have a very nice fuel map that smoothly richens up in boost and goes in and out of open loop without noticing anything. Should all be very smooth.

G

 

[iniazy]

Thanks Gadget. I'll try that.

Edit: I forgot to mention, I originally wired the AFR calibrator white wire to Output 1, and that required little adjustments, only -0.08 at the time. Then Peter from MAP-ECU suggested I change it to Output 3 (AFR Fine), because it is much more accurate, gives higher resolution adjustments. When I hooked it to Output 3, is when I had to dial it down to -0.20, and now after I did your suggestion I went further down to -0.24 to get it to sit at 14.7.

I'm using Mapcal 3.5 Beta and has new features not available in older versions.

 

[iniazy]

I've been tuning the truck and like you said Torspd and Gadget, it is really easy once you get the idea. I can see the massive difference in tuning between relying on a MAP sensor for load and relying on TPS for load, like my old PerfectPower was. This MapECU3 is truely powerful and flexible, I'm really loving it.

Ran into several issues, bad luck. I'm probably one of the least lucky people on the planet. My supercharger idler pulley (unribbed one) started squeeking bad. I heared the squeek and ignored it because I wasn't sure it was from it. Drove around for a while and then the SC belt jumped off. I found that idler pulley bearing was completely gone. Probably the bolt loosened up and resulted in the pulley sitting at an angle, which killed the bearing. That's an easy fix.

A picture of the pulley and bearing:

Also, for some reason my battery is misbehaving. It is a rather new battery, only a few months old, yet it sometimes can't get the starter motor to turn the engine. Then suddenly it can and very actively. The voltage is perfect, above 12 volts, I can't understand why is it behaving that way. Never seen this behavior before. I'll try to recharge it overnight and see how it goes.

I discovered something that bothered me a bit, and that my currently installed engine does not have an engine oil cooler. I was shocked to find this out, I never noticed it when I replaced the engine a couple of years ago. The old engine had a cooler. So I started digging into my old engine parts and found the relevant parts. Now this is a project I'll work on after I'm completely done with the SC. The current engine never gave me any problems in performance as a result, even thought I've taken it to extreme desert expeditions in the middle of the empty quarter desert.

The thermostat housing assembly with two coolant pipes for egress and ingress of the coolant to the oil cooler:

The OE oil cooler:

Test fitting the thermostat housing assembly with the URD kit:

Current engine, no cooler:

 

[Gadget]

That is actually a very good oil cooler.

Sounds like the contacts in your start solenoid are warn out.

G

 

[iniazy]

That is actually a very good oil cooler.

Sounds like the contacts in your start solenoid are warn out.

G

That can't be, my starter is brand new, just replaced it. Barely been used.