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Re-Installing My Supercharger

Gadget

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Inside the solenoid on the starter. You can get a rebuild kit from Toyota so you don't have to buy a whole new starter.

Wondering, on your truck, how many wires are on the sensor for the cam position sensor?

G
 

iniazy

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Inside the solenoid on the starter. You can get a rebuild kit from Toyota so you don't have to buy a whole new starter.

Wondering, on your truck, how many wires are on the sensor for the cam position sensor?

G

I already have a brand new starter motor in there, including a brand new solenoid. There's no way it could have gone.
DSC_0313_zpstw4aeclo.jpg


As for the cam sensor, there is a small sensor and a big fat sensor. Not sure, but I think the small one is the VVT-i sensor and the large one is the cam.

The large one has only two wires, while the small one has three.

It can't be any different than yours because this engine and all its sensors was imported from the US and pulled from an FJ Cruiser. I just had to change the oil pan, everything else bolted straight on.
 

Gadget

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No way a new part can go bad?? Really??

Thanks on the sensor wires. Still very puzzled with the UCON would not sync to your truck.

G
 

iniazy

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No way a new part can go bad?? Really??

Thanks on the sensor wires. Still very puzzled with the UCON would not sync to your truck.

G

That's why I'm suspecting the battery. I've got the battery on the charger, we'll see if this solves the problem.

About the UCON, I'm equally puzzled. I wonder if the SC crank pulley is causing some sort of a magnetic interference to the crankshaft position sensor, that might have caused this. Highly unlikely but it is the only difference I can think of between my truck and other ones. Though this should also affect the OE ECU.
 

Torspd

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Bad cell but most likely a bad/intermittent connection on the battery terminals.
 

iniazy

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Question for Gadget on timing with the adjusted cam gears. Do you typically advance or retard timing with those cam gears over stock timing? I know usually with boost you retard timing over stock to reduce knock, so with those exhaust cam gears do I still retard or should I start advancing? By how many degrees? And do you advance/retard over the entire table or only at a specific portion of the table?

Thank you,
 

iniazy

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I sorted out the knock sensor problem, it was my fault, when I unplugged the knock sensor connector I pulled it from the wires, and the white wire was pulled out of the connector. I worked yesterday couple of hours sorting it out and now knock sensor is working again.

Oh how much I regret not buying a new harness!

I've also been tuning my Tuna, and managed to cover most of the tune, only a few areas around WOT still need to be sorted out. I had to retard timing 5 degrees at load, there was too much knocking over there.
 

Torspd

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Making some steady progress still. Just read this post after your PM. Are you datalogging your driving, then re-tuning, or do you have someone to drive for you while you monitor the cells?
 

iniazy

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Making some steady progress still. Just read this post after your PM. Are you datalogging your driving, then re-tuning, or do you have someone to drive for you while you monitor the cells?

Right now I'm having someone to drive. Data logging is no good cuz I can't see AFR, I don't know why it can't just read the AFR output adjust and display it for me, it has to read it from my sensor. I didn't get around wiring that in.
 

iniazy

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I just wired in my Wideband into the MAP-ECU3. Man, I feel I was blind before! Those logs give you so much visibility, I'm so glad I did it. I feel like only now I'm starting to make something out of my tuning.

What surprised me is that my AFR gauge reading is not identical to the output going into MAP-ECU3. When it goes below 12, my gauge can read 9.5:1 while the MAP-ECU3 is displaying 11.1:1, I don't know who to believe. But at 14.7, they seem identical. Also, when I go full throttle, my gauges seem to be giving a good reading of around 12:1, but when I review the logs I find that it is showing me 14.7-15:1! WHAT! That's why I was getting so much knocking. Once I dialed it down based on the logs, I started feeling the power.

I think the more accurate reading is the one going to the MAP-ECU, not the one being displayed in the gauge.
 

Torspd

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Simply stated, datalogs are your friend. They let you comb over every cell with strict scrutiny. That is how you'll get it tuned best now.
 

iniazy

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I nailed it! The engine now is very safe, AFR is around 11.5-12 at WOT, and transitions are very smooth.

Power is not bad, not super duper fast, as I was very conservative with pulley size, but reasonably fast and miles ahead of the power I had before the supercharger, which is what really matters.

Most important thing is now the truck feels light, despite its sheer weight with all the off-road equipment and large tires.

I'll post some power figures once I get my oil cooler installed. I'm planning to advance the timing a bit at WOT to benefit from the oil cooler and URD thermostat kit.

Next steps: install the engine oil cooler, then a transmission cooler. After that I'll upgrade the size of my intercooler so I can be more agressive in timing.
 
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Torspd

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Man that is terrific to hear! Going to have to get an acceleration video for reference now, against future modifications.

Looks like you will be the Map3 tuner in you your area. :top:
 

iniazy

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I think there's still an area in the fuel and timing tables that need work, but I can only exploit during off-road sand driving. That is high load low RPM. I can't get the engine there on-road, because I got an auto transmission. You can only get there on first gear, and you need soft sand to resist the spinning torque of first gear to get there.
 

Redlantern

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That's good news! Glad you got majority of the bugs worked out. Now you need a new video to post up.
 

iniazy

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Working on the tune everyday as I commute back and forth to work.

I'm pulling 9.1 PSI of boost! I didn't expect to go that high actually, with a 90 mm pulley. I'm impressed with boost level, but I'm not so impressed with power level. I was expecting to feel much more power. Sort of disappointed. I don't know how Torspd is pulling almost 400 HP with the same level of boost (according to his signature)

Anyway, as long as I'm running safe, AFR levels are good, and the car is running smooth, I'm happy, even if I didn't reach my target power levels. We'll see how the dyno figures turn out, after I cool things off. Also an important factor is HEAT! Temperatures nowadays here are hitting 45 degrees (About 115 degrees F).
 

Torspd

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Wow! That's the desert heat though. If you can make the engine run strong and sound there, in that heat, it will only be better in cooler weather. I always like to have my tune where it works flawlessly in the worst case scenarios. There for it will always be safe. As long as it has flexibilty to adapt.

Flow characteristics of my turbo versus the other forms of F/I. It just flows more volume per psi.
 

iniazy

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Actually, yesterday it was 46 in the shade. Engine compartment temperature will be hotter, and my Intake Air Temperature gauge (MAP-ECU unit) reads about 50 at speeds. I guess you're right, this is the right time of the year to tune an engine, so any other (cooler) time will only be better and safer.

All car manufacturers are known to take newly built cars to the UAE in the summer for hot weather testing, where it is just as hot as here in the summer.
 

iniazy

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My glove box now. Too much stuff stuffed behind it :rolleyez:

DSC_0342_zpsfdg0medr.jpg
 

Torspd

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Lol! It has a slight stuffed pocket look to it.
 
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